Side Pipes Don't Line Up

mg2166 · #1 (**permalink**) 04-15-2002, 05:23 PM

I am having difficulty getting my side pipes to line up properly. The driver's side tapers OUT 1/2", and the passenger's side tapers IN about 1/2". Also the driver's side is about 1 1/2" further away from the body than the passenger's side.

The kit is an Everett Morrison. I am hoping to finish it in time for the summer. The tail end of the transmission seems to be centered in the frame, and the engine mounts seem fine. I removed the body from the frame to try and diagnose this problem, and still have no solution. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

petek · #2 (**permalink**) 04-15-2002, 08:53 PM

Are the pipes lined up with respect to the frame? Could the body be mounted unevenly?

carlo · #3 (**permalink**) 04-15-2002, 08:59 PM

mg,I had the same problem,I had to weld extensions on one side,heat both sides cherry red and use pipe(black iron) and a hoist to tweak and bend and coherse the headers into the acceptable (side pipes look good zone).remember you only see one side at a time,hope this helps.

mg2166 · #4 (**permalink**) 04-15-2002, 09:17 PM

Petek: The pipes are out in relationship to the frame and the body.

Carlo: I was hoping I wouldn't have to resort to that kind of an extreme, but I may end up having to do exactly what you describe. Yes, I know that you don't see both side pipes at once, but the taper (1/2") is very noticable from either side and I would like to get both sides closer than they are now (1 1/2").

Thanks for the input.
________________
Mark

niles · #5 (**permalink**) 04-15-2002, 09:34 PM

Something does'nt seem right here.
If one side is further out and one side is in; then there are only two possibities: either the header pipes are not symetrical; ie, one side is longer than the other, or the engine is not centered in the frame. after the body is removed; do some innovative measuring using pumb bob and level to determine the problem.
gn

Steve Jones · #6 (**permalink**) 04-16-2002, 07:00 AM

I agree with Niles, with the body off you should be able to get some good measurements.

Also, DON'T assume the motor mounts are located correctly on the frame. A 1/4 inch off at the mounts could make 2 inches difference at the end of the pipes. If it does turn out to be the sidepipes, E-M will probably replace them.

You might try taking them off, bolting the two exhaust manifold flanges together and string a line down the length of the joint, extending past the ends of the pipes. I would think (guess) that any measurements taken to the line should be equal on both sides. E-M welds up their own sidepipes and anyone can make mistakes.

Good luck,
Steve

mg2166 · #7 (**permalink**) 04-16-2002, 01:04 PM

Niles: The measurements I am able to make don't point to anything being wrong. No smoking gun.

Steve: I liked your idea about checking the sidepipes against each other, so I pulled them and everything checks out perfect.

After talking with Brett at Everett Morrison, I think I have a solution. When EM encounters this problem, they use a wedge shaped spacer between the header and the exhaust flanges. A 1/16" taper at the flanges will create about 1/2" at the exhaust tips. Not as much fun as Carlo's method but less chance of setting the garage on fire.

blykins · #8 (**permalink**) 04-16-2002, 02:17 PM

mg,

You may wanna watch closely...if the sidepipes are true to each other (the way Steve suggested to measure them) then something else is definitely out of whack. Make sure your motor mounts are true, or else you could have some bad problems down the road with universal joints...throttle linkages, etc...It's nice to hear the 4-barrel come in, but it's not so nice when you can't get it to come back out....hehehhe

jcl79383 · #9 (**permalink**) 04-16-2002, 06:45 PM

mg. You aslo might want to consider that who ever welded your pipes maybe didn't do as good a job as they generally do. The sidepipe should be done in some type of jig. Pieces would not move that much, but.......If to much HEAT is put in a given area, things will warp. I make a product for sidepipes and went through 7 welders until I found one that understood metal. These things HAVE to be straight. If not you have to grind them. PITA. The one guy jumps around so not to place to much heat in one spot. The end results is a straight product. Just a thought. JCL

niles · #10 (**permalink**) 04-17-2002, 02:53 PM

MG:

Keep looking you haven't found it!
When the body is off; find the centerline of the chassis(CC) by measuring mid way between the suspension uprights; don't measure the front brake rotors. With the car on even jack stands, pumb or use a 4 ft level to make the edges/CC on the floor. Rear CC can be found by determining a CC off the rear rotors. Next pumb pob off the edge of the heads to determine if the engine is at the center; some of your evidence would suggest it's not. Mount your pipes to the headers and find out were the problem is. EM uses the flange joint; if one of them is not welded on the proper angle it can throw everything off. Just keep looking and thinking; you just haven't yet ID'ed the problem
gn

bigmike · #11 (**permalink**) 04-17-2002, 03:54 PM

Guys;
Remember that the original C***ras were hand-made, and not even symmetrical. If your car was splashed from an original, there will be a difference. Kirkham makes a big deal that their cars were computer-generated, and, therefore, symmetrical. On my Shell Valley, I had to add 1-1/2" to the driver's side headers to make the pipes align with the body. They look pretty UN-square with the body off, though.
BigMike