Suggestions on Body Removal

Rick Parker · #1 (**permalink**) 04-27-2002, 08:52 PM

I want to separate the body from the chassis on my NAF car so that I can have the chassis powdercoated. I have removed the various bolts that serve double duty as body/seatbelt anchors and other various bolts that attach the body to the frame. My question is how have you that have done this actually removed the body? Invite some friends and carefully station each at a fenderwell and lift or is there a more refined method? I will remove the hood, doors, decklid to lighten it and then set it on some plastic milk crrates. Am I on the right track? The body does not appear to be bonded/glued to the chassis. Your suggestions are appreciated.

Rick......

Steve R · #2 (**permalink**) 05-01-2002, 09:12 PM

Friends + beer = body on floor. (remove body, then supply beer)

Red Era · #3 (**permalink**) 05-01-2002, 09:45 PM

I put several eye hooks in the ceiling and used several tie down straps looped around the body and connected to the eye hooks. it was very easy to raise the body a little bit at a time and keep control of bending the body. Pretty crude but it sure worked well and can be done by one person. My body was not painted at the time.

petek · #4 (**permalink**) 05-01-2002, 09:51 PM

I don't know about the NAF body, but on the CR body you've got to be a little careful about putting too much torque on either end of the body as there is not nearly as much support in the center of the body as there is on the ends.

Back in Black · #5 (**permalink**) 05-01-2002, 11:40 PM

You may want to look into Imiron marine paint instead of powdercoat...I have been told by several folks, including Vern Redel of West Coast cobra, my manufacturer, that powdercoat is subject to chips. Imiron paint is nearly indestructable, and pretty much rust proof on a car frame.

You can see what it looks like in red, in my picture gallery.

Rick Parker · #6 (**permalink**) 05-02-2002, 08:57 AM

Can one administer the beer first with the same results? Courage builder! Free flow of ideas, and open discussion usually accompanies early administration and frequent administration of this liquid! BRING IT ON

Tommy · #7 (**permalink**) 05-02-2002, 10:05 AM

I don't know squat about lifting the body on a Cobra (mine was assembled when I bought it), but I have lifted the body on my Corvette. Corvette convertibles are weak in the mid-section like Cobras appear to be, so the recommended procedure is to run a cable with a turnbuckle from the front door hinge to the striker plate. Tighten the turnbuckle before you lift the body and it will help keep the front and rear parts of the body from drooping. When we lifted the body on my Corvette coupe, we simply gathered six guys around the body and lifted. Most of the weight was carried by the fenders directly above each wheel. Good luck.

Mr.Fixit · #8 (**permalink**) 05-03-2002, 05:28 PM

Get at least four people when it's time to lift it off. Before then, make sure everything that connects it is disconected, and anything that may get in the way is removed. Last one I removed we had six people, two up front, two out back and one on either side above the doors to support the area where they want to fold like a taco.

Keith Vincent · #9 (**permalink**) 05-03-2002, 05:37 PM

oh rats, your talking about your car. I was thinks of spouse removal.

Rick Parker · #10 (**permalink**) 05-03-2002, 11:16 PM

I agree Imron is a very good paint however I believe it has been taken off the market in many of the areas in California by the EPA?
Is this correct. I have the hookup at a large powdercoating business that is swaying me in that direction, I do realize that preparation (sandblasting etc.) is a big part of the adhesion process. The seems to be less labor intense overall.

Rick.......

(keep the ideas coming)

searanch · #11 (**permalink**) 05-03-2002, 11:23 PM

Hey Rick,

I confess I don't know much about separating the body from the frame part but I can offer lots of suggestions about the beer part...

Good luck man...

Back in Black · #12 (**permalink**) 05-03-2002, 11:34 PM

I can tell you that California has some of the worst laws on the books in many areas, (My wife and I are CA natives, we escaped Hotel CA in 1991 for WA state) and in spite of that, I do know how bad pollution is there, and how nasty the EPA is in CA. Maybe you could truck your frame to Nevada or AZ for the paint job? Don't try Iriron (or Imron?) yourself, as I hear it IS quite toxic when being sprayed.

Have you considered epoxy paint? It is also VERY tough, although it can take days to harden, depending on the type used (Don't ask me, not a real paint pro)

Either way, hope it all works out for you. And no, I don't know you well enough to help you remove any bodies, even if they are politicians or their minions. I DO drink beer tho, so keep that in mind please

Rick Parker · #13 (**permalink**) 05-03-2002, 11:58 PM

Many of the paints are history for us too. Currently mine has R&M lacquer on it and it is in suprisingly good condition. However in our county lacquer is unavailable (yeah baby) and illegal to use for automotive application. Centari, Lacquer, and others too. I think I'm on the right track with the beer and courage. I'll drink a few and figure out the order later!

Rick.........

Back in Black · #14 (**permalink**) 05-04-2002, 12:36 AM

I just bought a 12 pack of aerosol cans of glacier blue Lacquer to touch up my International Scout 2 (1974,.. 4 x 4 restoration project) Bought it over the counter here, no problem. I will just hint that many things are available right over the border, Amigo...and you don't need no stinkin' badges

At least you can still buy beer there in CA, right?

Dominik · #15 (**permalink**) 05-04-2002, 02:14 AM

Rick,
I agree with Back in Black.

Do not powder coat. the little cracks that may eventually show cause water to seep between the coating and the metal causing the metal to corrode where you can't see it.

I know that powder coating has come a long way, but I am not sure what influences it can take these days, starting with hammer blows and ending with torsion in the chassis.
I think the German TÜV (MOT) is not accepting powder coating on chassis part anymore.

To remove the body on my Contemporary I use the stabiliser bars submitted by the former owner. They get bolted inside the cockpit to keep the body from snapping at the weakest point: the rocker panel under the doors in the corner leading to the rear.
the rear section is much heavier than the front.

make sure you are in the front when lifting it.
take the wheels off!

with my english RAM Cobra we used to lift the body with two people. The body and cockpit section were one in this case.

The aluminum body I managed to lift off alone, after unbolting the collapsable support frame.
All these bodies were unpainted though!

Dominik