HELP: Tilton Brakes leak

c_forshaw · #1 (**permalink**) 05-04-2002, 09:23 AM

Oddly enough, my brake system is hidden under the dash on the drivers side. Makes for a clean look under the hood, but sure is difficult to work on master cylinder. My problem is I have a leak. Brake fluid is running down and dripping from the nut as indicated in the picture. I know very little about the Tilton Braking System and therfore don't know where my leak is originating. I assume it is where the brake pedal meets the master cylinder. Any suggestions??

Richard Hudgins · #2 (**permalink**) 05-04-2002, 10:56 AM

c_forshaw,

It is most likely the rear seal on the piston. the best thing to do is remove the MC and replace the seals.

Tilton will have a rebuild kit.

Looking at your MC setup, it seems that changing the MC will be a bit of a pain.

Therefore, If it were mine, I would just by a new MC as they are pretty cheap. This way, you will know for sure that you have fixed the problem and you will not have take apart again if the rebuild does not work.

Leroy · #3 (**permalink**) 05-04-2002, 05:00 PM

Could also be the remote adapter fitting o-ring. Tilton uses 2 sizes of O-rings, one for the brake res. and one for the remote res. that mounts else where.
This happened to me, Brake fluid everywhere.
Good luck,
Lee

c_forshaw · #4 (**permalink**) 05-04-2002, 06:25 PM

Leroy,

Where is the remote adapter fitting o-ring? Would this O-ring be part of a repair kit?

Tommy · #5 (**permalink**) 05-04-2002, 07:43 PM

Some master cylinders have the fluid reservoir mounted directly on top of the MC while others have them mounted remotely and connected to the MC by a length of hose. If the reservoir is mounted directly on your MC, there is a rubber o-ring that keeps it from leaking. If the reservoir is remotely mounted, there is an o-ring on top of the MC where it connects to the hose, and another where the reservoir connects to the hose. .... If your MC went without a leak for a long time before the leak began, I would suspect internal wearing more than an o-ring. If the car has some miles on it and you discover one MC is leaking due to internal wear, I suggest you go ahead and prepare to do the other MC as well. Good luck.

c_forshaw · #6 (**permalink**) 05-04-2002, 08:39 PM

Tommy,

Good point. How can I tell if there is internal wear? The car does not have many mile, but is about 15 years old.

Richard Hudgins · #7 (**permalink**) 05-04-2002, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by c_forshaw
Tommy,

Good point. How can I tell if there is internal wear? The car does not have many mile, but is about 15 years old.

At fifteen years, just buy all new units and replace what you have. Due to water in the system over this much time, the bores will be corroded and it is just best to replace the MC's.

Remember, brake fluid is hydroscopic, it pulls moisture from the air. You need to change brake fluid every year to keep the system clean. I bet that this has not been done on your chassis. There are very few folks who do this and they are considered a bit anal.

I would also look at your brakes and clutch slave units for corrosion at this point.

Rick Parker · #8 (**permalink**) 05-05-2002, 01:09 AM

The leak will be coming from inside the bore and a large amount will be inside the bellows that the actuating rod passes through.
I just rebuilt and kitted the very same system this week. A small visable difference is that the piping comes out of the cylinders vertically instead of the ends as on yours. The bleeders are located on the ends of my cylinders and the piping goes out the top of the cylinders. The kits are about $17.50 each. Disassemble the cylinders individually and swab out the bores, then shine a flashlight in the bore it inspect for corrosion. if there is any it would be better to replace the cylinder than attempting to hone out the existing cylinder.

good luck
Rick.......