Purchasing a used SPF - engine good or no good

cobrap51d · #1 (**permalink**) 06-03-2002, 10:58 PM

I've been looking for a Cobra for a couple of months now. I recently put a deposit on a car that has a 351 Stroker with 3000 miles on it. I will soon be looking the car over and I'm concerned with the engine and what to look for. The original owner has ordered a new car cause he want more torque. This is what concerns me the most. I'm concerned that if he needs more torque than a 351 Stroker, how did he learn this in 3000 miles. What can I do to increase my odds of getting a solid engine. What can I test for, or should I have a professional do to ensure my success as a new spf owner.

This is the first time I've posted on clubcobra. The help I received here has already greatly incread my odds of purchasing a car I will be happy with. Dan Semko and Turk have helped me directly with information and direction that is priceless.

Back in Black · #2 (**permalink**) 06-03-2002, 11:27 PM

Have a 120 point check done, including full compression and bleed down tests ! You will NOT regret the small cost! Think of how much better you will sleep, when your snake is in the garage. By the way, I lived in Sacramento for 11 years, moved here to WA state in 1991.

If the owner does not want you to do so, run! Something's wrong!!

jrichard · #3 (**permalink**) 06-03-2002, 11:41 PM

you will not be disappointed with an SPF. the small block 351 simply can't deliver the torque of a 427-460 big block, so don't worry about it. if you want a Cobra that will drive well, be reliable buy the SPF....besides, Ford crate motors are't than expesnsive....

Jim Downard · #4 (**permalink**) 06-04-2002, 04:58 AM

Is it the 393 or the 408 stroker. Have you every ridden in a small block cobra before. I had a fairly stock 351W in my Classic Roadsters until just recently. It was an old '72 motor that started life as a 2 bbl motor. Very small valves and ports. It made about 275 hp, not much more than the newer 5.0 fords. It STILL ran pretty darn well. I just put a 393 stroker in it. It has good heads but a rather mild cam ( this is being rectified) and in its current state of tune should make a little over 400 hp and 440 lbs ft of torque. That is PLENTY for me. No way could I ever justify going big block for torque and trade off 50/50 weight balance with great handling. Like back in black said, if the owner won't let you check it out there's probably something wrong. If it checks out to be a good motor, then you will be happy. Trust me.

Jim Downard

jrichard · #5 (**permalink**) 06-04-2002, 07:57 AM

you will not be disappointed with a 351 stroker, especially if it's your first cobra. A friend of mine has a Lonestar Classic with a blueprinted 408 (351 stroker) that makes ~500bhp at the wheels. Engine alone cost him better than 20k. Buy the SPF and if you don't like the motor put a Ford crate 460 in it. it makes ~485hp at the flywheel and delivers tire-smoking torque....all for about 5k... you will be very impressed with the SPF. Fit and finish, attention to detail, and accurate asthetics will win you over...

klayfish · #6 (**permalink**) 06-04-2002, 08:06 AM

I can't comment on the 351, as I have a 302. But I have to strongly second Back in Blacks suggestion. Have a reputable Cobra builder do a very thorough inspection of the car. That's what I did before having my Cobra brought 1000 miles to my house. Inspection was part of the deal. If it passed, I bought. If it didn't, he turned around and went home. It passed with only very minor adjustments needed, and I was SO happy knowing that I got a good car and a good deal. If the owner balks at inspection, there is definitely something he doesn't want you to know.

Steve

cobrap51d · #7 (**permalink**) 06-04-2002, 08:23 AM

Thanks for the help. In responce to some of the questions. I already know I want and SPF with a 351 Stroker. It's a 393 which I have driven one built exactly as this one is built. I believe I got my answer here, take it to an engine builder and have a 120 point inspection done. The next question is who is a reputable engine builder near Ross, Ohio.

Bill Wells · #8 (**permalink**) 06-04-2002, 09:19 AM

Call Eric at Performance Engineering, Ross Ohio. 513-738-5001. they have done hundreds of engine installs in SPF's as well as build custom engines. you want custom, or you want crate, Eric can do it. Bill.

cobrap51d · #9 (**permalink**) 06-04-2002, 12:38 PM

I'm not sure exactly what a 120 point inspection is. I called Eric as suggested he wasn't sure what the 120 points are. He did indicate that it wouldn't cost over $500 to have a bleed down inspection, compression check and tune up. Also included was some type of bearing inspection. Is there some type of a list like the 120 point inspection so I can get a couple of people to give me a quote ? Eric was willing to work from a list that I would provide. I believe he also mentioned some other details that I may have missed.

Mr.Fixit · #10 (**permalink**) 06-04-2002, 02:35 PM

If it runs good, has good oil pressure, and makes no funny sounds, just do a leak down test to make sure the rings and valves are still sealing. No reason to pull it apart to check it out, unless you want to spend rebuild money before it's necessary. A compression test is redundant if doing a leak down test.

Great Asp · #11 (**permalink**) 06-04-2002, 03:34 PM

cobrap51d,

I would let Dan Semko know the car's number (unless it's Dan!...lol) and the car number. Most of us that keep an ear to the SPF group, can tell you something about the car, if we know the car number.

Bill Wells has it right. If you live near Ross, go see Eric at Performance Engineering!

Great Asp

cobrap51d · #12 (**permalink**) 06-04-2002, 05:02 PM

The first thing I do in this area is let Dan know the number. This one has never been registered on spfo.

Dan Semko · #13 (**permalink**) 06-04-2002, 09:38 PM

I believe that Competition built this car and Eric would be familiar with everything about its components without the extensive check list. I think Eric is honest, straight forward, bald and generally a nice guy that wouldn't lead you astray. Tell him that I'll be there to help check out your dream car and if he doesn't promise to check it out thoroughly ahead of our visit, you'll call for the "other" Semko brother's opinion and presence. When we mention this to Dean, he immediately retreats to his office and takes some kind of medication from his desk, so it must be effective.

chopper · #14 (**permalink**) 06-05-2002, 11:20 AM

FWIW, the inclusion of a big block does not necessarily destroy the weight distribution of the car. My ERA has a 427 and the builder specs list the weight of the car at 2600 lb with a 48/52 f/r weight distribution. The original big-block Shelby cars had the engine moved rearward about 8 inches compared with the small block model to maintain the weight distribution. There's certainly more rotational inertia due to the extra weight of the engine, but the weight distribution is essentially the same. As far as total weight, I seem to recall a previous post on this forum regarding the weight differences that seemed to conclude the difference between a small block Ford (302-351 series) and an FE (427/428 series) is less than 100 lb, even less if you have aluminum heads which save about 40 lb. The differences are not as much as most folks believe.