I will try and get you one tonight if my camera is ok (my wife dropped it at the Omaha event last week).
Basically if you would look at your brake pedal and how it is set up with the push rod going into the master cylinder, that in principal is how your hydraulic clutch will be set up at the firewall. From there you have choices but I believe that you should run the AN3 or AN4 stainless flex line from your master cylinder to your lower hydraulic throw out bearing hose. Your hyd t/o bearing probably has two braided 12" lines that extend out of your bellhousing. These lines need to be kept away from all moving parts (I used nylon ties to pull those lines back away from my clutch and pressure plate. The line I use to bleed my t/o bearing (top line going to throw out bearing) I extended 24" and mounted beside my clutch fluid reservior (so I could bleed it from the top of the car). I have had more than my share of problems with this set up so here is some advise.
1. Be sure the hole you drill in you firewall is not too big. If it is
your firewall mount could be weak and cause misalignment
between your master cylinder and clutch push rod from your
foot pedal. Bad things can happen!
2. Be sure and bench bleed your master cylinder.
3. It mayl take a long time to bleed out all the air in your clutch. You may have to lift your clutch pedal after you open your bleeder valve until most of the air is out of your system.
4. Be sure the hole for your clutch rod clevice is properly aligned with the hole in your fire wall. If not you could bend your clutch rod that actuates your master cylinder piston.
5. Use dot 3 brake fluid-not
synthetic.
I have made several post on this subject so do a search on "hydraulic Clutch" it could save you a lot of headaches.
Good luck.