Torquing Valve Covers

CobraMan · #1 (**permalink**) 07-24-2002, 09:29 PM

Does anybody have any recommended torque setting for the large cast type valve cover and oil pan.

Cal Metal · #2 (**permalink**) 07-25-2002, 01:17 PM

If you check an old Motor Repair manual you will find that they are torqued in "inch" pounds. I'll see if I can find a number this evening.

Jeff Frigo · #3 (**permalink**) 07-25-2002, 01:50 PM

Tighten them just enough so they don't leak. If they are cork, you will need to re-tighten a couple of time when new.

Jack21 · #4 (**permalink**) 07-25-2002, 06:36 PM

A little over hand tight with a 3/8" drive. Use gasket adhesive on one side, wheelbearing grease on the other and it won't leak, and won't destroy the gasket if you have to take it apart. Can re-use same gasket over & over.

Campy · #5 (**permalink**) 07-25-2002, 08:19 PM

Good advice Jeff. That is exactly what I do. You don't want to overtighten especially if its a cork.

FYI, I broke out "How to rebuild small-block Ford Engines" by Tom Monroe
According to Tom, 1/4-20 oil pan bolts are torqued to 7-9 ft.lbs and 5/16-20 are torqued to 9-11 ft.lbs. He advises "Snug the pan bolts down several times because the cork gasket relaxes"
Valve covers are torqued to 3-5 ft.lbs.

Good Luck.

CobraMan · #6 (**permalink**) 07-26-2002, 07:55 AM

Thanks, guys. You confirmed what I thought. What was driving me crazy, was the bolts had to be re-tightend a few times. Unless I did this, I had a lot of leaks. I am heading for Carlisle in a few minutes and I'll let you know how it worked.

Zderf · #7 (**permalink**) 07-26-2002, 09:31 AM

I find myself torquing my aluminum valve covers on a regular basis. My heads are cast iron which expand and contract at a different rate than the aluminum valve covers. I think this plays with the cork gaskets which tend to take a set. Even with regular torquings, I still get some weepage between the head and the gaskets at the aft lower end.

Jack 21, I've never used the grease on the head-side of the gasket. I'll try that next time I change them out.. perhaps that will help with my weepage problem.

My oil pan is steel, so leakage has never been a problem.

Zderf

renaissance man · #8 (**permalink**) 07-26-2002, 09:59 AM

I eliminated that problem by getting a good set of "Earl's high-temp silicon gaskets". They have a sandwich of aluminum between the two layers of silicon. No goop of any kind needed.

Zderf · #9 (**permalink**) 07-26-2002, 10:13 AM

Quote:

No goop of any kind needed.
RenMan

Are you using studs for your valve covers? If not, how do you maintain alignment with the holes whilst trying to install the bolts sans goop?

Do you have aluminum heads? I'm thinking that similar metals expand at the same rate which may reduce the tendency to leak after cool down.

I'll try to find the Earls gaskets for my application and see what's up.

THX...

Zderf

SFfiredog · #10 (**permalink**) 07-26-2002, 01:13 PM

Use the Gashole method of torqing all fasteners.

Step 1) Tighten bolt until valve cover cracks.

Step 2) Back off bolt 1/4 turn.

Step 3) Blame Jamo.

Step 4) Sit next to car and drink many beers.

works every time

--Mike

bmalone · #11 (**permalink**) 07-26-2002, 02:36 PM

Now Mike, let's not blame Jamo for everything. He does make quite the good anchor when you have lost your brakes.

mickmate · #12 (**permalink**) 07-29-2002, 07:57 AM

Nice design on the FE covers huh. Only 5 bolts to hold them down with only two on the bottom edge. I've hammered many tin ones flat on the holes from (other people) over tightening. I just use a knurled extension and hand tighten with that. They don't need to be tight they need to be even!