Cam breakin

OhBuoy · #1 (**permalink**) 09-01-2002, 01:33 AM

I have been told on many occasions to break my cam in by running the engine for 20 minutes at 2000-2500 RPM. Do I just sit there with my foot on the loud pedal or is there a better way? What should I be listening for during this time period in case of trouble?

Hotfingrs · #2 (**permalink**) 09-01-2002, 03:06 AM

First you want to vary the rpm during this 20 min break in....nothing lower than 2000 and you really don't need more than 3000. Best way is to set the idle screw on your carb until you get the desired rpm, then every couple of mins just pull on the throttle linkage to change the rpm for a little bit. as far as listening for anyting...just whatever you would listen for during normal operation..

427 S/O · #3 (**permalink**) 09-01-2002, 07:31 AM

Reed Cams advised 2500 RPM for one hour, I used the garden hose on the radiator and never let the engine get over 200 degrees. No problems.

Wade Chamberlain · #4 (**permalink**) 09-01-2002, 07:54 AM

Is your cam a flat tappet cam or roller? If a roller, there's no need for the break-in routine. Just drive it and go easy on it, varying the engine speed and load for the first 500 miles or so.

Whaler · #5 (**permalink**) 09-01-2002, 10:36 AM

Here's a reply from their dept when I asked the same sort of question on breakin and oil type.I was also told that if I had a dual spring to breaking with only the one installed and re-assemble the second after. I ran that by him as well.

"The typical 30W or 10W40 oil is just fine. As for the break in, the rule of thumb on the springs is correct, however it does depend on the pressures of the spring, if the cam can take it, you don't need to worry about it. If you are using our cam with our springs, you will be just fine, there is no need to remove any part of the spring to make this break in properly. the 30 minute break in is fine, you want the motor to run between 1500 and 2500 RPM's but never at one steady speed for too long, that will hurt the cam. fluctuate the RPM's back and forth.

Thank you.
When replying, please quote this entire e-mail for reference and to help us help you better.
Shane Turner
Edelbrock Tech Dept.

OhBuoy · #6 (**permalink**) 09-01-2002, 03:52 PM

OK, fired up the engine after a little trouble. Ran for about 19 minutes between 2000 and 2700 RPM. Tempurature hit around 200 degrees and stuck there with spraying water on the radiator. It is about 90 degrees here today.

Oil pressure stuck at around 50 PSI.

No unusual noises.

Couple of points of concern...

1) Oil on dipstick looks dark and possibly burnt.
2) Looks like oil leaked out of oil drain plug and oil filter. Not alot, but enough to concern me, especially when mixed with number 1.
3) I have a slight exaust manifold leak that I need to take care of (dont think this is huge)
4) Accelerator cable hit the header, so looks like I am in for a new one.

If I had good oil pressure, I should have had oil circulation, right? Is the gummy oil from the assembly lube?

No odd sounds or smells while I was running. Smooth easy acceleration up to 2500. Had a nice rumble to it, not coarse.

What should I check? I am probably going to drain the oil and change the filter tommorow. I will date and save the filter.

OhBuoy · #7 (**permalink**) 09-01-2002, 03:56 PM

BTW, I was cut short at 19 minutes because the cops showed up. Thought I was getting nabbed for disturbing the peace (open headers), but he was giving my neighbor a ticket for supposedly hollywood stopping our neighborhood stop sign/revenue generator. We all know it is there, so why would we blow it?

427sharpe · #8 (**permalink**) 09-01-2002, 04:00 PM

Oh Bouy--sounds like you did very well! Motor oil will turn black quickly, and the lube will make it kind of gooey. Fix the leak, replace the cable and go have some fun..and that's an order!
After about 500 miles or so, replace the oil and go over all the bolts one time to make sure nothing has come loose and you are on the road!

OhBuoy · #9 (**permalink**) 09-01-2002, 04:09 PM

OKAY, now that I feel a little better, I have one other concern. Neighbor that got pulled over by the cops asked me when I am going to get that damn car of mine running. I told him I was running it when he got pulled over. I was really not wanting to draw attention to myself with this thing, but I am kind of hurt by the fact that I was running open headers and he did not hear me! I am sure it was the fact that he was caught up in the cop, or maybe he was out of it, and that is why he got the ticket.

Thanks for the reassurance. This is my first time doing something like this, and it seemed to be going okay. I am probably lucky that the neighbor got nabbed when he did because if things were going well, I was contemplating a go cart ride. That would have been intersting. I bet the neighbor would have gotten off of his ticket if he got there about 5 minutes after I reached the 20 minute mark.

Now that I think of it, I dont even think that the cop took note of a V-8 go cart sitting in the driveway!

-Tom

OhBuoy · #10 (**permalink**) 09-01-2002, 04:13 PM

Oh... As far as finding the manifold leak, I know exactly where it is at. Up Cylinder #4, where the tube makes a tight bend and where you cannot get a wrench around the header nut to save your sole. I think I am going to have to head up to sears and get one of those goofy looking sockets that are an open ended wrench.

wadesdad · #11 (**permalink**) 09-02-2002, 05:49 PM

OhBuoy,

You said your oil "looked" burnt. To put your mind at ease, smell it. You'll know if its' cooked. It is unlikely and the dark color is from the break-in lube on your round and round parts. It may even look cloudy / grey.

I changed mine shortly after break-in. It has been clear ever since. Most engine builders suggest you stay away from synthetics for quite a while.

Good luck and happy motoring.

Jim Werth · #12 (**permalink**) 09-03-2002, 06:41 AM

Put allen head bolts in for your headers. Should be able to tighten them up then. I did, no leaks yet. Jim

OhBuoy · #13 (**permalink**) 09-11-2002, 07:25 PM

I have run the engine twice since the breakin. Even took the car up and down the driveway a few times. Life seems great. I am still a little concerned about my oil though. It does not smell burnt, but when I wipe it off on a clean white cloth, it leave a nice yellow black oil mark with a dark streak in it. The dark streak seems gritty. If I rub it between my fingers, it breaks down, so I do not think it is metal shavings. Normal? Me paranoid? What should I watch for?

Tom

Michael C Henry · #14 (**permalink**) 09-11-2002, 09:53 PM

sounds like a hectic twenty minutes.I'm going to start a complete rebuild .besides the cam I'll be adjusting valves, seating rings ,carbs never just go back on with no fiddeling.Hell I be doing goodm to get the wiring straight.

Jack21 · #15 (**permalink**) 09-14-2002, 02:16 PM

First time I fired Cobra up, I called Police in advance so that if there were any neighbor complaints, they could call me and I'd shut it down. No complaints, but they came to see the car. A lot of cops are motorheads anyway. Zillion questions.

Break in lube has a lot of Moly in it. Looks black with silvery particles in it. Oil should stay reasonably clean after first change. Use regular oil for first 3000 - 5000 miles so everything seats. Then switch to synthetic if you want.

On first run, I watch water level in radiator while air is purging, and check for fuel leaks, and oil leaks. Listen for strange noises. Have a doctor stethiscope for pinpointing noise. Sometimes use a long screwdriver attached to it for a probe.

For header bolts, used ARP header bolts. Have 3/8" hex head, and special lockwashers. Long skinny 3/8 combo from Snap-On gets to all of them. FelPro solid copper header gasket, and Permatex ultra copper RTV seals it up. 11k miles, no exhaust leaks.