Die Grinder Question

[Chics LI]

Question for tool gurus. I have a 5hp Craftsman compressor with 20 gal. tank. Stand up type. Do you think I can operate a die grinder effectively with this. I need to cut out a heal rest 1/8 angle iron welded to floor. Got my foot hung up on it so it has to go. In the past when I tried running an air sander from the compressor I kept running out of air.
Tom S

[Mr.Fixit]

A 5 hp compressor should be more than adequate to run a couple of die grinders at the same time.

[Jack21]

Anyone building a Cobra needs a die grinder in the toolbox, because something always needs clearancing, or shaping. Have an electric DeWalt, a router speed control, several ferrous (carbide), and non ferrous bits. Air will work OK too.

[snakebitAC]

I have a 5 hp upright and it handles my die grinder without any problems

[ronzara]

I use a Craftsman 5.5 HP with horizonal 30 gallon Tank. It runs every air tool I have put to it with ease. Die grinder, Sand Blaster, Torque Wrench, Air Wrench, Orbital sander, .. etc... NO PROBLEM.
RZ

[A Snake]

Just a thought. I've made a living with these tools years ago. Air die grinders are ok if you aren't trying to do anything intricate. The hose inhibits precise movement. It's ok for hogging something out with a coarse carbide tool.

For fussy work, I personally use an electric model. That includes cylinder head work, deburring etc. I do have an air model but rarely use it. Don't like the noise for one thing.

Just my opinion

Al

[Jack21]

Years ago, Craftsman used to make die grinders with variable speed control built in. Many Pontiac, and Oldsmobile heads got ported with it.

Variable speed control is essential, and I never use one flat out.

My trusty old Craftsman gave out on this Cobra, and I had to replace it. Got the DeWalt from Grainger, and found a router speed reducer from a tool shop on-line.

Have never used an air die grinder because the electric one works so well. But using one is an art, like welding.

Need carbide bits of varying coarsness, and 3/8" is usually the only size I use. Use these on cast iron. Flutes will clog on aluminum. For aluminum, and brass, you need the non-ferrous bits. Flute pattern is entirely different, and bits are usually tool steel, rather than carbide. These bits work great on fiberglass also.

[A Snake]

Not to be picky Jack21, but carbide IS non-ferrous. Tool steel is ferrous. Ferrous meaning iron content.

Try hitting the bit with a bar of soap before you try cutting aluminum. Works pretty well. Just have to keep doing it or it will load up. There are also some solutions available to dip the bit in for non-ferrous work such as aluminum, brass copper etc. I quit using tool steel years ago Gets dull too fast.

Also, using the grinder at full speed makes a smaller chip and is less likely to clog. It also makes a much smoother cut.

Mine is a Craftsman. Never had a lick of trouble with it. 26,000rpm

[Chics LI]

It sounds like some of you guys are talking about something like a Dremel grinder. I don't think that will cut through this, I have a piece of 1/8 angle iron welded (upside down) welded to floor used as a heel rest. I got my foot hung up on so have to remove it.
I was thinking of using an angle die grinder...the electiric grinder you guys are using I am not aware of. Is this a big brother version of a Dremel?

Tom S

[Jack21]

No, not a Dremel grinder. A die grinder uses 1/4" shank bits or burrs. Some call it a rotary file instead of a die grinder. You could call it a big brother to a Dremel. The Dremel uses tiny 1/8" bits, and is not suited for what you're looking to do.

For clarification, the carbide bits referred to are used on ferrous metals. Cast iron, and the piece of steel you're trying to remove. The bits came from a company called Severance Tool Co, in Huntington, NY. Right in your back yard. Still have a copy of their '72 catalog.

The tool steel non-ferrous bits are used on aluminum and brass. For production work, head porting, would use carbide with non-ferrous flute pattern.

Personal preference is to adjust tool speed to the job, and most jobs require less than full tool RPM. Some head porting bits have long shanks to reach into the port, and will whip at full tool speed.

My Craftsman die grinder performed well for nearly 30 years, but Sears has long since stopped making them. It need a front shaft, and bearings, and couldn't get them. That's why I replaced it with a DeWalt.

[A Snake]

Jack21, You're right about the long shanks. The only time I use long shanks now is with sanding cones on long spindles. Yes, I've had them grab and bend a spindle.

Chicks LI,

FYI, when you get done with the heavy shaping with a burr, you might like to smooth it up a bit. The same place you get the burrs will have the mandrels and sanding cones for fine work. I say "cones", but they come in all sorts of shapes. You can also get what are called "mounted points" Those are miniature abrasive stones, mounted on a shank. Remember this little piece of info when selecting mounted points: "The harder the metal, the softer the stone." Also, get a little dressing brick to "clean" the stones with. They will "load-up" with metal and dirt. When they start to get shiny looking, its time for the brick. You can also shape a mounted point with the brick or a mounted diamond dresser.

This is all probably a lot more than you need for the job you're trying to do, but it may help with future jobs.

[Chics LI]

Thanks for info guys. I will check with Home Depot and Sears on Monday. Someone suggested a cut off wheel on die grinder too, and finish with grinding stone to smooth it all out. It would be easier to use angle grinder to clear clutch pedal. I'll let you know how I make out.

Tom S

[427 S/O]

Volume!!!!!!!!!!!, you need volume. A 60 gal. tank works great, and a larger tank works even better.

[Brad Pfeifer]

Tom,

Your compressor will work, but one word of caution - 'coverup'

Die grinders toss hot steel at a fast rate, and the 'spray' is not friendly to glass - fiber or safety. I have seen a number of 'cheap' Mustang restorations where the glass was not covered and it ended up pitted from someones enthusiastic use of a die grinder. Some old blankets, painting tarps, or the like should help to minimize damage.

Finding someone with a plasma cutter would be really nice!

Brad

[Jack21]

Which is why I like a tool operating speed of between 8,000 - 16,000 RPM, not 26,000 RPM. If it the hot steel chips pit glass, imagine what they'd do to your arm.

Safety glasses are a must. If you're getting into head porting on iron heads, a respirator is a god idea too. Respirator not necessary for little clearancing jobs. A shop vac usually gets the chips off the floor and workbench.

Air die grinders are reasonably inexpensive, but the carbide files you need are not carried by Sears, Home Depot, or True Value. Found most recent vendor by doing a search on Tools & Abrasives. Summit also sells a few of these. Look in the engine section under porting tools.

[Mr.Fixit]

The chips only hurt when they land in your eye, they just bouce off your arms and hands. That's if you are cutting (carbide burr), if grinding (grit impregnated abrasive) those little buggers get hot. Respirators are important if you are in a confined space or doing lots of work. As much for the vaporized oil you are putting in the air as for the bits of iron. Steady now

[Wayne Maybury]

One thing I started to do a couple of years ago is to wear some ear protection when using the high speed die grinder. I used to use it with no ear protection then noticed I had to have the sound turned way up on the TV later. Once you get used to wearing the ear protection you wonder why you didn't use it sooner.

A side note on safety glasses when using a die grinder. Many years ago I was porting a two cycle engine, aluminium I think. I stopped to check my progress and I removed my glasses to take a look. At the same time my buddy was looking at the port from the other side and decided to blow some of the chips out of the port. You guessed it, right in my eye. I had to go to the hospital where they dug out 3 or 4 pieces of metal from my eye. I am not some sort of safety nut but please be careful when using this type of tool.

Wayne

[jeff_taylor]

Guys,
If you are going to buy a new die grinder, check out Air Turbine Tools at:
http://www.airturbinetools.com/

I have used several of their tools, and all work great. Quiet, and consume air proportional to the load, as they are internally governed. Also require no lubrication.

[Mr.Fixit]

If you do get something stuck in your eye, please go to the eye doctor and pay the $40 for the emergency visit. You can lose your eye to bacterial infection overnight. I have met someone who did, he thought he had something in his eye, said, "I'll go get it looked at first thing tomarrow morning." That morning he woke up and his eye was cloudy and white. Now it's glass.