Trigo wheels binding...

[Rick Parker]

A redesign may be in order. To date I have not applied the torque to the nuts for final installation. If I encounter anything similar to what is being spoken of here I will redesign the nuts themselves. Here is what I had in mind. For my application I will take 3/4" round stock, drill and tap the correct threads, machine the correct angle for the chamfer and machine a hex for 1/2" or 9/16" six point socket to fit rather than an internal hex wrench. Or as a cheap fix to the existing ones heliarc a piece of hex stock into the nut itself but allow for overall length and fit a socket to the protruding stub of the hex stock.

Another cheap preventative fix would be to clamp a split collar (machine shop tool) around each nut as it is tightened to prevent distortion or cracking. Just be certain to lubricate the threads and chamfer surfaces with aluminum based anti-sieze compound.

Just my $2 worth!

............Rick

[decooney]

excelguru,

you may already have this solved...

and if not, if you are running wheel studs in the front on your Unique, with the upgraded hub/brake option; yes its freakin tight! The hardened black wheel studs don't flex, at all, like the rear Jag hub/pins do.

I didn't review this whole thread, but can tell you that Lynn has two different pins, black and chrome. On my last car I stayed with the chrome and had a few things to do to make them fit.

First, be sure the test ring fits! If you don't have one, get one from Lynn - immediately. Next, install the wheel, using the tire for leverage, and check where the pins are gouging into the the pin/bore; usually towards the outside of the bore. Pull the wheel on/off a few times and keep turning the wheel round and round on the pins until it finds a point where it drops on the pin better than other positions. Pull the wheel off carefully, and MARK the pin at 12:00 and the wheel hole to make sure that pin always goes into the same hole. This is your starting point. Always put the wheel on in the same position. From here, you can see where the pin is hitting in the bore. From there, you can choose to grease the pins, and/or slightly machine/or sand the pin bores slightly for a fit. I talked with Lynn about 5 times on this, and soon learned that his wheels are one size, and wheel/hubs come in "slightly" different sizes on various cars.... off a thousandth here and there. Unique's hubs/studs are off just a bit if you ask me, and my ERA was the same, but a hair better.

Remember, if the alignment/test tool will not fit first, the wheel will not fit. A little finesse on the wheel bores usually does the trick. And yes, the chrome pins are not durable as they could be.

send me an email if you are still stuck.

[SCOBRAC]

I thought of the same thing Rick, perhaps using .750 bar stock or billet reducing the likelyhood that one of the 20 I have to use on my new wheels will do the same thing. To their credit I did somehow manage to get 21 pin studs in the package with the hubs.. I am a little gun shy about putting too much force on these things now, I won't even call it torque.. I might have had 15-18 lbs on the one that split. The thing is the hardened steel pin doesn't give you any warning before it fails, no deformation of the allen head, nothing..

The pins supplied are pretty thin walled at the wrench head and they don't need to be.. the pin is .750" and the allen wrench is a 12mm.. It could be much smaller, increasing the wall thickness as well as decreasing the likelyhood too much effort is used, if in fact we are using too much effort.. But then they are lug pins for goodness sake.. I was thinking they should be much tighter than I ever got them before I had the failure.

[SCOBRAC]

Ok..

I went to test fit my PS Engineering wheels today.. I am using Trigo hubs, pins and spinners left over from my $3400. mistake.. Ok I guess it was only a $2300 mistake if you take out the cost of the hubs.. (Wheels, tax, shipping, tires and more tax)

They slipped right on.. I swear.. The same hub with a Trigo wheel took me about an hour to get the wheel and tire on, that was after the two hours it took to remove the shattered pin..

Phil Schmidt is my new best friend..

[CSX 4027]

I used a little anti-seize and never had a problem. Even after removing the pins when I changed rotors.

[Rick Parker]

I spoke to Lynn Park today and mentiond that this problem was being discussed on the site. He said to be sure that the hex wrench is fully seated into the nut before applying the torque. He said it was only necessary to leave the stud long enough to engage all of the threads in the nut. Appearantly there are some who are screwing the nuts onto a full length stud which then limits how deep the hex wrench goes it the nut before it is tightened, (makes sense). It would also benefit everyone to be sure the countersink angle in the threaded adapter hat is the same as the chamfer on the nuts, I thought mine were 90 degree included angle and they turned out to be 60 degree angle, use some bluing compund to check the fit. So,...... for what it's worth......CHECK YOUR NUTS

.....Rick

[SCOBRAC]

I got my Goodyear Eagle GS/C mounted yesterday and my PS Enginering wheels on last night.. It was like putting on a pair if really nice shoes.. no effort everything fit.. very nice

[SCOBRAC]

My studs are standard length.. My allen wrench was seated (as I indicated in my post).. I still have a shattered Trigo hub pin I will be bringing to Knotts.. You are welcome to look at it.

As for the Trigo's.. Anyone interested? They have a brand new, never on the ground Goodyear Eagle GTII's on them.. $1800.

[xcobraj]

Yup,that was the problem...the bevels on the pins don't match the bevel on the adapters.Put the pins in the lathe,gave it the same angle (boy are these pin out of round) and the wheels go on with no problem.I do have new pins coming from Lyn,lets see if they work!

[Dominik]

rick,

if I was living in USA or even better in Cal I would speak to lynn as well. he is a nice guy to deal with, but with the backyard mechanic fixes that are proposed to fit his wheels i cannot agree.

I believe most wrencheing guys in this forum know how to tighten a bolt or nut, although some do not seem to bother too much in bending wheel studs slightly to straighten the stud-bolt.

that will cause stress in the root of the wheel stud thread. would one do this to a rocker arm stud, or main bearing bolt? I am going 160 mph frequently. I rely on my wheels.

my solution is
1. buy a similar set of stud bolts which can be modified (retapped, cut, milled) you may find a cylindrical one at the local wheel shop (4 hours on a lathe).

2. as you proposed, fabricate your own and mill a regular 9/19" hex to it (6 hours on a mill?).

3. ask CAV (GT40) in Cal if they sell you a set of theirs. make sure they fit into the wheel.

4. for jaguar suspension users, press the original stud out and bolt the adapters on with 1/2" allen capsrews with nut. they feature a head diameter of 3/4" fitting perfectly into the wheel. there should be enough space for a nut. I checked my XKE suspension
cut the taper (90 degree!) onto the underside of the head.

one drawback: lynn's old design of adapters were centered on the hub via the lip on the hub. now they are centered by the stud bolts. should work with the undercut allen srews though.

PS wheels:
I wonder if their holes are just big enough to compensate for slightly bent stud bolts.

and yes, there were definitely stud bolts which worked. I had a set for a customer in 2001.
in 2000 I battled with stud-bolts getting bigger in diameter when applying torque, some also cracked. they were green-brown.

the lates silver ones had the wrong bevel/taper and were not tapped parallel to the outside. slightly scew causing the stud to bend when applying torque.

my wheels take up garage space since 8 months...

dom, cape town - still getting no notification of some responses. yes it is ticked in the profile.

[Dominik]

for,

now I can only say that lynn is doing his best to help me out on the other end of earth.

I also remember a set of wheels I bought in 2000 that fit perfectly, although we had problems with the first 3 sets of wheels (in 2000). some of the old design (green) stud bolts were fine, some warped beeing too soft.

in the meantime I am waiting for a set of slightly bigger (in diameter) stud bolts from CAV (the cape town made GT40).

the CSX cars feature 6-pins, I guess. those are studs which I also used on my first set of Contemporary wheels. the were always straight.

good luck.

dom, south africa

[WardL]

This is an old thread but was most relevant posting to my search on my topic. Here is my problem: Original wheels fit fine, my "new" racing wheels don't fit on the rear. I get a Trigo pin alignment tool and it points out my pins are out of alignment. Trigo says slight taps with a hammer on the pin should bring them into alignment. I can get two pins in alignment (with all the other pins off). I put the third pin on and the alignment tool binds up and won't go on. How do you know which way to gently tap the pin? What if the pin is bent in, towards the hub? You can't tap on the pin from that angle! Any suggestions on how to align my drive pins would help. They can't be that far out because the original wheels fit fine@!

[Rick Parker]

Ward:
Consider losening all the pins. Put anti seize on the chamfered ends after checking them for any fretting or damage. Put a slight amount on the exterior of the sleeve nuts ad the threads too and then put the alingent tool over the and initially torque to about 35#. Pull the alignment tool away from the hub until it is even with the ends of the nuts. Finish torquing in a cross pattern in two more steps OR to 55# then to the final number. Remove the tool. At that point you should be good to go.