Dashboard Glue Questions

rbray · #1 (**permalink**) 10-31-2002, 10:37 AM

Two years ago I used 3M spray adhesive to fasten the fabric cover to my aluminum dashboard. A few weeks ago it just "let go".
Now I have to remove my dash and fix the problem.
Should I use the 3M again or try something else?

Thanks for your help

Mr.Fixit · #2 (**permalink**) 10-31-2002, 10:41 AM

I always like the 3M "super 77" spray in the black can. Have you been wiping down your dash with some sort of conditioner, armor all, or something like that? That might cause the dash fabric to become saturated and oily and lose adhesion to the glue. If the glue peeled off the aluminum and not the fabric, maybe you need to roughen up the aluminum so the glue can stick better.

427 S/O · #3 (**permalink**) 10-31-2002, 11:01 AM

Use a good quality CONTACT CEMENT, you brush it on.

rbray · #4 (**permalink**) 10-31-2002, 11:10 AM

Mr. Fixit,
I just looked at the can .. it is 3M General trim adhesive. Maybe I need to use the Super 77 that you suggested. I have not used any cleaning product on the fabric. It appears that the glue stuck to the aluminum but didn't do the same on the fabric.
Pathenry,
Do you have a brand name of contact cement that you can recommend?

Thanks for the help guys.

Turk · #5 (**permalink**) 10-31-2002, 11:17 AM

When you use the contact cement on materials where one is more porous than the other,
1-Apply generous quantity to the pourus piece, so to seal it.
2-Let it dry
3-Apply another coat
4-When it no longer feels tacky
5-Attach the two surfaces together.

I have found the brush on to be easier to control.

TURK

rbray · #6 (**permalink**) 10-31-2002, 03:55 PM

Thanks for all the advice. We are going to pull the dash tomorrow and take a shot at fixing it. I have decided to go with the brush on method.
Turk, any brand of glue that you recommend?

Jack21 · #7 (**permalink**) 10-31-2002, 04:12 PM

Weldwood contact adhesive, hardware store variety, same stuff used to install formica kitchen countertops.

No **** on the flammability of this stuff, it's worse than gasoline. So, open a door or window, extinguish gas pilot lights if any are nearby, and no smoking.

But once it sticks, it stays stuck.

427 S/O · #8 (**permalink**) 10-31-2002, 04:21 PM

I have a can of 3-X, I used this to glue the leather on my aluminum dash, after I posted, I did a search on the net but it did not show up?. A local trim shop recomended contact cement and told me to stay away from 3M products for the very same reason you experienced.
I'm sure you can find a good quality contact cement if you look around.

Good luck

A Snake · #9 (**permalink**) 10-31-2002, 08:17 PM

Been there and tried the "over the counter" stuff. It has been recommened to me to go to an auto upholstery shop and get the non-consumer adhesive used by the pros.

I had the same problem. Wouldn't stick to the fabric no matter what I did. I wound up clamping the fabric to the lip under the dash to make it "sort of" stay put. Same thing on the inside of the doors.

I highly recommend getting the Professional type adhesive that's not available at your local hardware store or auto parts outlet. I saw it used and just stood there going duh!! Wish I'd found it a long time ago. I also wish I could remember the name of the stuff.

The pros use it and so should anyone wanting professional results.

Al

Turk · #10 (**permalink**) 10-31-2002, 10:11 PM

Weldwood is good.

TURK

sfry · #11 (**permalink**) 10-31-2002, 10:32 PM

Roger,
Clean the dash with 3M 08984. That will remove any residual glue from the dash.Do not clean the vinyl with any solvent. You will regret it. I would go back and use the 3M General Trim Adhesive. FOLLOW TURKS INSTRUCTIONS!! even if you use the aerosol. It will work.

Shannon Fry

Wayne Maybury · #12 (**permalink**) 11-01-2002, 12:20 PM

I have tried both the spray and the liquid (brush-on) contact cement and I believe that the liquid product works better. The spray-on stuff really is sticky but it doesn't appear to hold as well as the liquid on the long term. As Turk stated, it is very important to let the cement dry fully before mating the two sides together.

A solvent such as toluol works very well at cleaning up contact cement. One big problem with contact cement covered items is the fact that they immediately stick to each other and can be very difficult to separate. This tends to be a pain as you are trying to align one part and get close to the second glue covered part. A trick I learned many years ago is to separate the two parts with a piece of strong paper. Once you are happy with the alignment of the two parts, you simply remove the piece of paper and press the two parts together.

Wayne

427 S/O · #13 (**permalink**) 11-01-2002, 12:32 PM

Beware of these posts, I'm sure the instructions will come with whatever product you purchase.

flipper35 · #14 (**permalink**) 11-01-2002, 01:15 PM

The flammable type is far superior to the latex based contact cement and the spray on stuff is usually too dry by the time it hits the surface. Be sure you have a good coat and let it dry before putting it on. When we used it on carpet, we used a thick brush on the concrete and a trowel on the carpet. It's a pain to redo an auditorium when the seats are in because you didn't use enough glue the first time.

rbray · #15 (**permalink**) 11-13-2002, 10:52 AM

Just wanted to thank everyone for the advice.
I sprayed some of the 3M gule to the fabric and
let it dry. Looks like it will hold this time.

Thanks again everyone