Auto-Meter TRI-ALERT

[PSB]

Anyone used the Auto-Meter TRI-ALERT Triple Gauge Warning System? If so, how do you like it?



Thanks,
Pete

[petek]

Wired right in without any trouble. Open the top of the unit for access to a multi-position dip switch and three trim pots. The dip switches select set/run and trip direction (rising / falling). The electronics are potted in epoxy.

I've got mine wired to oil pressure, water temperature, and the gas gauge. I've tied the two critical outputs together to a bright red light and the much less critical gas gauge output to an orange light.

The thing works like a champ. Oil pressure before engine start causes the red light to come on. Gas sloshing in the tank causes the orange light to come on (I've really got to get in there and re-adjust the gas gauge setting). I've got the water temp set to 210 degrees and the red light flashed one time in 30 minutes of stop-n-go.

Well worth the cost (and this from someone who could have just cobbled up one from scratch in a weekend).

[got snake?]

you can't use mechanical guages right?

GS

[PSB]

petek,
Thanks for the info. I'm going to order one.

GS,
I think it only works with electrical gauges.

Pete

[petek]

Yup, only works with electrical gauges.

[Mr.Fixit]

If you run mechanical gauges (as you should) then you can just put Hobbes pressure switches in parallel on the oil and fuel pressure lines to make your own warning lights. or even ignition cutout protection circuit (with relays). I used to put Hobbes switches on the fuel line when installing nitrous on other people's cars, so if the fuel pressure drops, the nitrous solenoids would be disabled until fuel pressure retured to acceptable levels. That saved more than one motor by letting the owner know he needed a larger fuel pump before he leaned out and burned it up.

[petek]

Mr. Fixit ... are mechanical gauges still more accurate than today's electrical gauges or do you prefer the greater sweep range that the mechanical gauges have?

... and how the heck do you do a mechanical water temperature gauge ... capillary tube? ... and fuel tank level gauge?

[Mr.Fixit]

Mechanical temp gauges do use a capillary tube. Fuel level, by nature, needs to be an electrical gauge, but it's a relatively unimportant gauge anyway, same for the ammeter or voltmeter. I just don't want to trust the important things like oil pressure and temp to a gauge that needs voltage to work right. Mechanical oil pressure gauges sweep quicker than the electrical counterparts, so long as the pressure line is -3 or -4 with full sweep elbow fittings. Maybe I am superstitious or just biased, but there are more things that can go wrong with an electrical oil pressure gauge setup than a mechanical one, and still appear to be fine. If the impedence of the sender wire changes, the connector loosens slightly, you have a charging problem and the volts go out of the range of what the gauge prefers, the sender/transducer goes out of calibration, etc. I have replaced only a couple of faulty mechanical oil pressure gauges in my life, but dozens of electrical gauge senders and gauges. My oil pressure gauge needle move more quickly than my tach needle. Electric speedo's are nice however.

[Back in Black]

I wonder if I could just hook them up to the sender units for oil pressure/voltage/and oil temperature...and mount the (really small..looks like a tiny shift light{s} ) on my column or in some other out-of-the-way spot?

The voltage level GUAGE I have should also show a drop if there is a charging or ground/connection problem.


This way if the light comes on, you can stop and look at your voltage guage to see if it has dropped...and look at your electric oil pressure/temperature guages also? ...And maybe stop at a nearby shop and have them check oil pressure..etc?

[B. SMITH]

I HAVE A DIGITAL VOLTAGE THAT PLUGS NICELY INTO THE LIGHTER OR POWER OUTLET. GOT IT AT BASS PRO SHOPS, $13.
EXACT READOUT IN TENTHS.

B. SMITH

[justa6]

I put one on my Cobra about a year ago. Its got to be the best deal out there.

I have a Dry sump system that uses a Weaver external oil pump. The good news is that the pump makes an internal pump pale in comparison. The bad news is that it uses a Gilmer (cogged) belt to drive it.

So I got the Tri-Alert and set the oil pressure alert to come on at 50psi. The motor idles at 55 (Hot) and runs from 75psi at cruise to 100 psi at 8,000RPM. I also set the alarm to go off for water temp in excess of 220 and oil temp at the same.

I use a Piezo buzzer and a bright orange light if any of the 3 gauges sees something it shouldn't.

Oh and I wanted to comment of something MR FIXIT said:
He wrote>>> My oil pressure gauge needle move more quickly than my tach needle. Electric speedo's are nice however.<<<

Fixit, when I'm running through the traps at the dragstrip or in the turns at a road race HOW, exactly, am I supposed to watch the oil pressure gauge? IMO, the Tri Alert is a tremendous value. For around 70 bucks you have a "brain" that looks at nothing else but your instuments and warns you when something goes wrong.

Oh and by the way the guy that did the machine work on my motor builds Busch, Nascar, and other race motors for a living. He told me to put a warning light on my oil pressure that goes off at around 50PSI not 5 so that I could kill it and "maybe" save the motor. I found the Tri-Alert and he loved it. He sells a lot of them now.

Regards,

[agro1]

Bob - Don't mean to sound condescending, but if you can't watch your guages while in a wheel to wheel racing situation you either need to get off the track or slow down...There is allot going on OUTSIDE and INSIDE your car that you must be aware of; for your own safety and others...If you feel you don't have the confidence to watch your oil pressure guage while drifting out of a turn at 120mph then you really need to take a look at how safe you are out there...Racing is allot more than just looking to see where you are on the track and what's coming next...Cause if I am hearing you correctly, you don't have the time to take your eyes off the track...Do you ever check your mirrors before turning in ??

[scottj]

You guys use mirrors?? I've heard about racing classes that use them...keeps the slow guys from getting run over.

I prefer to study my oil pressure gage while backing it in at 120mph, right after adjusting brake bias and just before pulling a tear-off. When the right rear just takes a set and the left front comes off the ground, right THEN I look at the gage. I NEVER look when drifting off the turn...it's no challenge.

[PSB]

if you can't watch your guages while in a wheel to wheel racing situation you either need to get off the track or slow down

I just did my first autocross a couple of weeks ago (in a Mustang - don't have the Cobra running yet). I know I'm an amatuer, but I NEVER had time to look down at the gauges. I know I hit the rev limiter a couple times because of the motor cutting out, but I never looked down at the tach. Me thinks I'll be buying a Tri-Alert AND a shift light.

Pete

[agro1]

Scott - LOL...good one...Funny thing is when you watch the in-car cams of the F1 and IndyCar guys, they are doing about 3 different things at the same time, while cornering at over 3G's pushing over 150mph...INSANE.

PSB - It's like everything else, you only get good with LOTS of practice and track/seat time. After a while you will begin to feel exactly what the car is doing and hear when you need to shift - but that rev limiter DOES come in real handy with these big stroker motors...I'd have blown mine up long ago without it...I would suggest getting used to your car before you put any shift lights in it, they are only a bit easier to see and you still need the same comfort level to take your eyes off the track to look at a shift light as you do a guage...Practice, practice and more practice...

[justa6]

I fly International as a 747 Capt. I use the instruments in THAT all the time. However, when I drag race my Cobra which runs 10.7-10.8's I use a SHIFT LIGHT so I can keep an eye on the other guy, the WALL, and especially the Shift Light/Tri Alert Light. I used to Race a Turbo Kawasaki also. It ran 9.3 @ 150. Look down at the Tach every shift and you'd be dead. Did you ever consider WHY they make shift lights?

As an airline pilot for 35 years in March with no scratches, dents, dings, or "enforcement actions" I'll keep doing it my way. But thanks for the advice...Oh by the way I NEVER hit the rev limiter because I've to a Shift Light. By the way, "NEVER LIFT" what?

Regards,

[agro1]

Didn't realize you were referring specifically to drag racing...In that case mount the shift light right in front of your face...I wouldn't look down either in a drag car...If you have and MSD ignition they also make some cool RPM activated switches that can be wired into an existing light ...

Ever fly a GIV SP ??

[justa6]

Nope, only DC9, 727, A320, DC10, 747-400 oh and Lake Amphibians and an occasional DC3 Way back when.

Regards,

[scottj]

agro1- you nailed it with the seat time. 20 yrs. of I racing motocross and I could operate 5 controls (among other things) simultaniously without even thinking about it. Then I go to four wheels and I didn't look at a gage for two years.

Now if I only had the talent to make the transition Jeff Ward and Robby Gordon made? HA!

[agro1]

JUSTA6 - Good stuff man...My Dad has a DeHavaland Beaver all restored that he uses for flyfishing...Goregous plane...

ScottJ - I hear ya man, tust me I do...I guess we'll just have to sit at home and watch Speed and tinker with our Cobra's in the garage...Tough life huh ??? But running at Charlotte and then hoping on a Lear bound for Baja to run a 750hp truck through the desert does have it's appeal....Know what I mean ???