Electrical Question

John Montgomery · #1 (**permalink**) 01-29-2003, 08:07 AM

I hope this will be an easy one.......

I've attached a picture of an electrical component that controls my fuel guage. It takes power in from the ignition, and then out to the guage. When testing with a meter, I do have power going into it, but not going out. I by-passed this thing and my guage is working, but not giving correct levels, ie. reading 3/4 when full.

A fellow CC member called this, I think, a voltage controller. I've been to the parts shops in my area and nobody knows what this is. A guy at an auto electric shop called it a relay.

The sticker on the part reads, " BR 1310/00 SMITH'S INDUSTRIES LTD. MADE IN UK". The guage is also Smith's.

So.......do I need this part? If so, how can I get one?

Thanks for all your help,
John

wilf leek · #2 (**permalink**) 01-29-2003, 08:20 AM

John - it is a voltage stabiliser, not a relay.

It's job is to ensure that instruments like your fuel guage get a constant voltage supply unaffected by the normal fluctuations seen in an automotive electrical system.

I believe it should output around 10 volts. Obviously yours is dead.

I can't help with a supplier in the USA, although I would have thought that any decent auto-electrician should know what it is. You could also try an instrument supplier - these things are commonplace.

If you get really stuck, email me and I could get one here in the UK, but I think you should be able to source one more locally than that!

John Montgomery · #3 (**permalink**) 01-29-2003, 08:46 AM

Wilf:

Thanks for your help. I'll try again. A "voltage stabiliser" is probably what I was told the other night at our local cruise, but I couldn't remember. And I hate to call people back and bug them. I seem to have the worst memory.

Now.....what was I looking for again?

John

Junket · #4 (**permalink**) 01-29-2003, 09:23 AM

Wilf is correct a lot of the old Dodges used them that had amp guages might be a outlet that little toy took out the electrical spiks
Ken

Roscoe · #5 (**permalink**) 01-30-2003, 07:23 AM

I believe the Smith gauge works on 10v and the system needs a voltage reducer in order for the gauge to read properly.

Roscoe

RACER X #99 · #6 (**permalink**) 01-30-2003, 07:29 AM

John,
Contact Nisonger automotive. They supply this stuff for the Smiths gauges. Peter Bayer is the owner and he was the first owner of Contemporary Cobras. If he can't help nobody can.

Cranky

Roscoe · #7 (**permalink**) 01-30-2003, 07:34 AM

http://www.nisonger.com/

John Montgomery · #8 (**permalink**) 01-30-2003, 07:36 AM

Thanks for everyone's help. I'm going to contact Peter today.

John

John Montgomery · #9 (**permalink**) 01-30-2003, 07:47 AM

Just spoke with Nisonger, and they've got one on the way. Great company to work with.

Roscoe · #10 (**permalink**) 01-30-2003, 07:50 AM

John,
I am assuming that the part you ordered is the voltage reducer. How much did it cost. I could use one. I only have one Smith gauge (fuel level) and it reads on the high scale. Pinned needle when full and 1/4 tank when empty. Was this your symptom?
Advise,
Roscoe

John Montgomery · #11 (**permalink**) 02-02-2003, 06:52 PM

Roscoe:

I called Nisonger and asked them for a voltage stabilizer part no BR 1310/00. I told him it is for a Cobra replica and I have power going into the part, but not out to the guage. He said he has them in stock, but the part no is BR 1307/00. The difference being the bracket. The cost of the part is $18. He never called it a voltage reducer.

As far as my symptoms, my guage was completely dead. After taking a meter and checking the circuit out, I found out I had power going in to the voltage stabilizer (reducer) but not going out. So I by-passed this part, putting power directly to the guage. It now reads 3/4 when full. And it seems to have about half to 1/4 tank when the guage reads empty. Also, when I turn the ignition key to on, and all the guages come to life, the fuel guage needle seems to "stutter" a few time before it reaches the correct position.

I should have the new part this week, so I'll post back with the results when it's installed.

Hope this helps,

John

wizard · #12 (**permalink**) 02-02-2003, 07:07 PM

Roscoe

John's part can go bad in two ways open or shorted. Open prevents Voltage to pass and shorted allows all voltage to pass. Whiile I can't be totally sure from here, your symptom seems to indicate a short. Regardless replacement is warranted.

The Wiz

Roscoe · #13 (**permalink**) 02-03-2003, 11:38 AM

My Smiths sender is the CA transmitter # TB9011 (bimetal) The ohms are 20 Full and 250 Empty. Being that the rest of my gauges are Autometer, I'm thinking of dumping the Smiths gauge and getting the Autometer 33/240 fuel level gauge.

Roscoe

Turk · #14 (**permalink**) 02-03-2003, 11:50 AM

Wilf,
Is your 12V automotive electrical systems on Metric system as well.
10V??
That would explain all the bum rap English have been catching over here.
After 6V systems, we skipped over the intermediate voltages and swiched to 12V cold turkey.
Try it.. It is really neat!

TURK

auto10x · #15 (**permalink**) 02-03-2003, 12:47 PM

Ti's a constant voltage relay.
auto10x

John Montgomery · #16 (**permalink**) 02-05-2003, 06:27 PM

Roscoe:

As I said in my earlier post, I would report back when I installed the new part. Looking at all the other replys to my thread, it can be called a voltage stabilizer, a voltage reducer or a constant voltage relay. Anyway...the guage seems to be working properly now.

Nisonger billed me $18 for the part AND $9.74 s&h. The price was fair, but almost $10 s&h for a part that weighs just a few ounces was a little steep I thought.

I too am thinking about replacing all my guages with Autometer over the summer. And, when the guages go, I'll probably replace the wiring harness as well.

John

wilf leek · #17 (**permalink**) 02-06-2003, 02:57 AM

John - glad that little bitty piece of equipment solved your problem.