Superformance / Brakes

[Hal Copple]

There are always trade-offs, like dating an exotic dancer, one has to chose what is important, and what isn't.

I think on a light car, the PF 80's are just right. Seem to be gentle on the rotors, a bit "dustier" than the tan Wilwood pads, and i don't know why one would need any other pad. Wilwood makes an Axis pad, which is one step up from the tan pad, which is probably similar to the PF 80 compound, but on a street car, which has to have constant, instant friction even when cold, and hopefully not dust up too bad, one would want a pad that gripped immediately, and did not have to heat up to work. Brakes on a street car just don't get warm enough to safely use a race level pad.

I have heard the expression from folks with other cars running race grade pads on a cool day, out on the street, say " i jumped on the brakes, and wondered where the brakes went."

I don't think you need SRF unless you are running race tires, you won't build up that much heat with street tires on a "track day." But while expensive, at about $80 for 32 oz, you have to remember that the can is a lot larger than the typical autoshop bottle of brake fluid. It is important to change out the clutch fluid occasionally too, as it too gets hot, and deteriorates the clutch cylinder innards. Found this out the hard way. i will try to attach some links to some brake questions.

http://www.ac427.com/html/tech_brake_fluid.htm

http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html

http://www.hotrodheaven.com/tech/brakes/brakes.htm

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/123.pdf

enjoy,

[agro1]

Thanks again Hal, much appreciated...

[DaveR]

Hal,

I am in the middle of building a non-SPF Cobra, and have to make a number of decisions. Your input about brake performance under track conditions will help me to avoid "buying twice", once to get on the road, and a second time when I realize that I have to upgrade.

I am going to go with your advice about 4 piston calipers and good shocks instead of full race brakes.

However, I'm a little uncertain about rotors. I already have 11" single piece non-slotted, non-drilled rotors, and don't want to upgrade if I don't have to. It would be a big help to me if you could measure the diameter and thickness of yours so that I will know that I have exactly what you have.

Thanks

[Hal Copple]

i think you should contact the maker of your replica, as they can tell you what manufacturer made your spindles, and what brakes can mount up to them. You have to have the correct caliper plates to do this, or perhaps you have spindles that are already set with the correct bolt pattern for your calipers, distance to the rotor, all that sort of stuff, I would think this could be very different for each replica's front and rear end.

I am sure the people who make your replica can suggest reasonable alternatives for your braking, and part numbers for what fits what. Anything i could say would probably not apply to your set up. But remember, your car will weigh a good thousand pounds less than whatever car your brakes are sourced from so any fairly good brake will work very well on our sized cars. Even if you get a caliper for which there is no race pad available, there are companies that will custom make pads in various compounds for you. Panther, is one.

What is your replica?