Clutch Problems

rbray · #1 (**permalink**) 04-30-2003, 07:09 PM

While doing some brake checks in a parking lot today my clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed there. I havent put the car up on stands yet so I can't get a good look yet. However I can see fluid running down the sides of the bell housing and onto the floor. This was a real surprise because the clutch had been working so well from day one.
I'm wondering where to start fixing this problem. I hope it is only a simple leak and not a major malfunction.
Any help is appreciated.

John 550 · #2 (**permalink**) 04-30-2003, 07:26 PM

May be just a seal in the master / seal . Just a thought

Whaler · #3 (**permalink**) 04-30-2003, 08:08 PM

Hi
Do you have an internal hydraulic t/o or external slave cylinder attached to the t/o fork?

Either way I would say the slave end has let go at the internal seals or a cup. The fact that its actually leaking out says its doing more than just bypassing internally.

Depending on which one you have, the thing will need replacement of the seals/o-rings cups.
The first one I described is a bigger job, as it involves pulling the tranny to get at the internal T/O. Pain in the arse

If it's a McLeod, it has a rebuild kit to go with it , or can simply be ordered.
If it's an external slave cylinder, my pal its your lucky day...easy to pop off and repair the goodies that are inside it.

First of all clean up that fluid ASAP.
Its brake fluid and you know what that does to paint. Wipe off immediately and then rinse off, wash off with a cloth and a bucket of water.

Tim

rbray · #4 (**permalink**) 04-30-2003, 08:21 PM

Whaler. Thanks for the information. The unit is an internal McLeod.
We were very careful to set it up correctly but we must have screwed something up. Oh well, sounds like I'm going to have to pull the transmission.

Darn!!!!! If the car wasn't so pretty I'd sell it in a heartbeat and get an old Viper.

Tinker51 · #5 (**permalink**) 04-30-2003, 10:14 PM

This is really odd but it has happened to two friends of mine. They both had braided stainless clutch lines in their cars and both cars set up an electric arc and blew out the line. Both cars had very worn grounding straps and the juice was just looking for the path of least resistance. It took a while to figure out what happened on the first one. The second one was obvious. If you cannot find a smoking gun elsewhere, give a look at the line if it is braided stainless.

rbray · #6 (**permalink**) 04-30-2003, 10:18 PM

Thanks for the tip Tinker

Cobra20646 · #7 (**permalink**) 05-01-2003, 05:56 AM

Roger,

Do you have a pedal stop on your clutch pedal? Without one, there is a good chance that you will extend the hydraulic TOB past its limits. The results are as you described.

- Jim -

rbray · #8 (**permalink**) 05-01-2003, 05:59 AM

Jim,
I think you are right. Yes I do have a stop but we must not have set it correctly. We checked, but we were wrong.

Oh well.

Cobra20646 · #9 (**permalink**) 05-01-2003, 06:26 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by rbray

Jim,
I think you are right. Yes I do have a stop but we must not have set it correctly. We checked, but we were wrong.

Oh well.

Yeah, they can be a bear to set. I usually set the pedal first by raising the rear wheels off the ground and have a friend try to rotate the wheel (tranny in hi gear) while you then slowly press the clutch. At some point, the friend will be able to turn the wheel (clutch released) and you can "visually note" how far you had to puch the clutch. Move the stop to that location and repeat the test a few times until your satisfied. Then, with the engine running, tranny in neutral, depress the clutch and see how it shifts into reverse. If you don't have enough release, you'll grind the gears and won't be able to shift it. A little grind is normal, but the gears should engage. At this point you should be really close to having good release without over extending the bearing. Then a turn or two more on the adjustment should do it.

All of this assumes that the bearing has a proper static set up first!