Accusump Installation....Lost my directions.

[Brent Mills]

Well, I'm pretty certain I know how to install all of it, but.....There are a couple gray areas.

1. The electrical valve...Which end is attached to the sump? I see an arrow for flow, but is the arrow to be pointing at the sump or away?

2. The T fitting has one end that attaches fine to the check valve, and the opposite end attaches to my lines fine, but wouldn't you know it....It doesn't attach to the electric valve fitting. Too big. Do I have the wrong T adaptor, or just need another adaptor to go between the valve and the T adaptor (seems stupid).

3. How do you pre oil the preoiler? I am assuming you just add the oil, and then put pressure in the sump.

4. How much pressure do you put in the sump?

Thanks for your help fellas.

[PSB]

Brent,

1. The arrow on the valve should point away from the Accusump
2. Don't know, I bought my T-adapter separately
3. a)With the accusump out of the car, remove the valve core from the air valve and remove the electric valve. b) Push the piston 2/3rds down toward the air end using a wood or aluminum dowel in throught the valve oriface. c) Hold the Accusump gauge end down and fill the Accusump with oil. d) Replace the electric valve. e) Replace the core in the air valve and re-install in the vehicle. f) Pressurize the Accusump with 50 psi of air (WARNING - if you do this on the bench, rather in the car, about a half a quart of oil will guyser out of the electric valve before it closes - ask my how I know this )
4. 50 psi

Pete

[hcollado]

Brent,

If you have a fax, I can fax them to you. The T fitting has to have a 1/2" NPT end in order to be able to screw into the valve.

By the way, I skipped the check valve. Instead I used a "Y" fitting on the return line from the oil cooler. Seems to work perfect. One of the tech guys at Canton recomended I stay away from a check valve that could fail and block all oil trying to get back to the engine.

Let me know

Hector

[Fred Hamilton]

Brent

My Accusump has a 7 PSI pre charge. I ran a # 10AN line from the Accusump to a # 10 T. This will connect to the line coming from your oil cooler line that is going to your motor. I installed the check value on the up wind of the T, meaning closest to the oil cooler. This will prevent any oil coming from your Accusump going to your cooler. Your Accusump should be plumbed for 1/2 pipe. My direction told me to install the sump and before I put oil in it to charge it with 50 PSI and let it set overnight. You want to find any leaks before you put oil in it. Bleed the pressure off and then put a 7 PSI precharge on it. Fill your engine with oil and then start. I also fill my filters witjh oil so there is no void waiting for the filters to fill. Depending on the size of your Accusump you will need to start adding oil. The Accusump is not an instant fill container it will fill slowly. They also tell you to have your Accusump mounted VALVE end lower than air gage end, this way any foaming goes to the high end. If you need photos I can send you some.

[Brent Mills]

Thanks fellas! Great information!

Hector, I don't have a fax.

I think with the responses so far, I should be ok, although if anyone has more words of wisdom....

Fred, damnit....I already made the mounts level.....Hmmmm....More work ahead of me.

[wilf leek]

Umm Brent - here is a "DON'T DO".

You will see, at the output end of your accusump, a safety valve. It has a little ring attached to it to manually open it (by pulling on it).

You DO NOT need to check that this valve works when the thing has 3 qts of oil in the oil end and 75psi of pressure in the air end.

You may come to your own conclusion as to how I know this. The upshot was me getting a very stiff lecture from my wife about not wearing good white shirts into the garage. LOL

[Roscoe]

Brent:

http://www.accusump.com/acc_accusumps.html

Roscoe

[Brent Mills]

Wilf, I'll keep that in mind.

Roscoe, thanks for the link, which brings up another question....

Installing directly into the engines oil galleys

Some engine come with a predrilled inlet hole in the side of the block that will lead directly into an oil passage.

This can provide an effective way to plumb an Accusump directly into the block so that pressurized oil is discharged directly into the oil galleys.

Check with your mechanic or engine builder to see if your engine has this kind of provision.

Is this a possibility with a 427 s/o?

[Roscoe]

Brent,
I believe they are referring to after market blocks, racing blocks and the like.
Roscoe

[SCOBRAC]

Do we need to start a Buy Brent a Fax fund? I'm in for $20..

[Brent Mills]

Michael, you're killing me over here...

[Hal Copple]

I have a two quart unit, going directly to my block, via a modified oil filter adaptor, using the oil return inlet on the Canton filter adaptor, which was previously used for the oil return from the cooler and filter. I have my discharge (valve end) end slightly higher than the end with the pressure gage, so if oil foam gets into the A'sump, it won't slowly build up and reduce my oil capacity in the A'sump.

i was only using it to pre-lube, and when on a track. But having stripped a distributor gear about two weeks ago at about 5K RPM, but instantly shutting my engine off and coasting, and fortunately not damaging my motor, and then having Bob Olthoff ask why i did not have it "on" for normal driving, which would have given me a bit more safety for a few seconds with no oil pump output, i have now decided to prelube, then leave it on at all times, i just shut it off just before turning my motor off, i rev it slightly for a few moments to charge it for the next cold start. I have a lit switch mounted low on my dash to tell me if it is on or off.

Remember, the A'sump will always fill with oil, even with the switch off, but it will only release pressureized oil with the switch on.

hal