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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2003, 09:03 AM
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Default External Clutch Slave questions

Hi Guys,
My internal T.O. bearing is leaking so I'm going to relpace it with an exteranl slave. If anyone can help me with the part numbers that I'll need to make the switch I'd be grateful.
I have a 351 crate motor , Center Force clutch, lakewood bellhousing and an tremec 3550. The Car is an EM.
I need to know who makes an external slave kit and I also need to know what fork and bearing to get.
Thanks for your help
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Old 05-29-2003, 09:35 AM
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first you should decide whether you want it to be a "push" style slave (mounted to the bell housing or block) or a "pull" style slave mounted to the transmission. Most go with the push style. I purchased one from Paula and Enzo at Finishline www.cobraacessories.com and it sells for @ 150 and it comes with the mounting plate and hardware. You'll likely need to purchase a clutch fork as well. My slave from finishline worked beautifully, I had to weld the flange to the block and it was perfectly compatible with my 7/8 master cylinder. I remember buying a 3/4 bore MC as a back up but I don't think I had any problems with the 7/8 bore. I had perfect throw and easy pedal actuation.
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Old 05-29-2003, 10:13 AM
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Thanks Frankym.
If Enzo has the parts I need then my problem is sloved.
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Old 05-29-2003, 12:14 PM
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rbray -
I'm replacing the McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing on my EM with a new one right now. I believe the leaking assembly led to hydraulic fluid getting on the clutch disk, causing it to slip. I mention this in case you didn't remove your clutch disk. As long as you have the transmission out, I suggest you inspect your clutch disk.
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Old 05-29-2003, 12:42 PM
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Thanks for the information Tommy. How will I know if I need to replace the disk? Can it be cleaned or if it is contaminated is it better to just replace it. Also, where did you buy the parts to make the change?
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Old 05-29-2003, 02:04 PM
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rbray -
This was my first clutch change, so I'm far from an expert on this topic. On my car, when I removed the clutch assembly, there were obvious signs of overheating on the flywheel face, and the clutch disc looked shiney rather than dull. If you've worked on disc brakes, I think you will know if the surface of the clutch disc has been contaminated. ... I did not build my car, so when the hydraulic throwout bearing started to leak, my first task was to find out who made it. I eventually determined it was a McLeod unit and I ordered a replacement directly from them. My first order was the wrong size, but with a little technical support, I swapped that for the correct unit.
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Old 05-29-2003, 02:27 PM
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One other potential problem you may have. The Lakewood bellhousing for the Tremec trans has the pivot point on the passenger side, near the end of the throwout arm. That is because it was designed for cable actuation in a Mustang. For the external push style slave cylinder arrangement, you need a center pivot type throwout arm, with the pivot on the drivers side. Or you may have the old model bellhousing for SB Fords which has the pivot in the right location, but doesn't fit a Tremec trans. unless you use a 5/8" adapter plate. Or you can take the Tremec style bellhousing and weld in a pivot point on the correct side for the external slave, but you better get it in the right spot. Those are your options. It's really too bad that Tremec had to use a longer input shaft than the standard Ford tranny and cause all this trouble (this is my 2nd biggest gripe with Tremec, the 1st being total lack of product support. They don't return phone calls . . . at all . . . ever).
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Old 05-29-2003, 03:05 PM
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Go to autoworks.com,they have a slick unit for the tremec that uses the stock fork and pivot. chuck
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Old 05-29-2003, 05:12 PM
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I love the Alibrandis but you can buy a slave unit from EIS or Raybestors for around $40.00 and in about 40 minutes you can build your own bracket to attach the unit to the housing. It isn't that difficult.
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Old 05-29-2003, 05:54 PM
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Default Slave cylinder

I have a new in the box Raybestos unit, unused for $25.00. + Freight COD

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Last edited by Rick Parker; 10-17-2003 at 07:33 PM..
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Old 05-30-2003, 07:29 AM
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If you have what Charlie has described with the fork. The pivot is at the end, then you will need to pull the fork to disengage the clutch. Check this out before you do any modifications.
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Old 10-17-2003, 09:44 AM
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Default Clutch Slave ??

Ok, I'm confused. I have 351w with a lakewood bellhousing, 11" Ram clutch. The pivot ball is upper passenger side in the bellhousing. If I have it set up correctly, which I'm questioning after reading these post. The fork needs to go to the front of the car, towards the bellhousing as you say. I would think this would work fine ??? And I could use a push or pull slave for it depending on where I want to mount it. Is there a perfered way to mount the slave ??
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Old 10-17-2003, 11:24 AM
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I made a bracket that bolts to the bellhousing and allows me to bolt the slave, datsun 1200 ( I think ) to it. Then, the I made an arm to connect the piston to the fork.

I am pushing the fork.
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Old 10-17-2003, 12:03 PM
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I made a bracket that bolts to the bellhousing and allows me to bolt the slave, datsun 1200 ( I think ) to it. Then, the I made an arm to connect the piston to the fork.

I am pushing the fork.

That's where I think I have something worng. If I mount it to the bellhousing I would have to pull the fork.
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Old 10-17-2003, 07:45 PM
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What you must be careful of is the angle at which the slave cylinder pulls or pushes (depending on where it is installed). The installed angle will impart a load upon the throwout bearing and sleeve that it slides on. Idealy, to eliminate side loads it should operate on an imaginary line parallel to the centerline of the transmission input shaft & and clutch fork pivot.

Rick
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Last edited by Rick Parker; 10-17-2003 at 07:49 PM..
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