Main Menu
|
Nevada Classics
|
Advertise at CC
|
January 2025
|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7 |
8 |
9 |
10 |
11 |
12 |
13 |
14 |
15 |
16 |
17 |
18 |
19 |
20 |
21 |
22 |
23 |
24 |
25 |
26 |
27 |
28 |
29 |
30 |
31 |
|
|
CC Advertisers
|
|
06-28-2003, 06:25 PM
|
|
The longest build.....
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Midwest, USA,
KS
Cobra Make, Engine: Mid-States, 428 Police Interceptor, TKO 5 speed, Jaguar rearend, Trigos, and Guardsman Blue!!!
Posts: 612
|
|
Not Ranked
?? What gauge battery cable to use ??
Hey,
I plan on running both cables all the way from the
trunk to the engine compartment.
What gauge ???
#1, #0, #00, or something else ??
Thanks,
Bill Cook
|
-
Advertising
06-29-2003, 04:27 AM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Houston,
Tx
Cobra Make, Engine: Unique FIA
Posts: 2,064
|
|
Not Ranked
#0 welding cable from your local weld shop. good qual and cheap.
Steve
__________________
All my ex's live in Texas
|
06-30-2003, 07:47 AM
|
|
Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Macedonia,
OH
Cobra Make, Engine: A&C 427S/C, 351W, T5
Posts: 513
|
|
Not Ranked
Wicked!
I used #1 gauge wire, but I only ran the positive up to the cutoff switch in the interior and then to the solenoid on the fire wall. I grounded the battery to the frame in the trunk. The positive wire runs along the inside of the frame rails for protection.
Hope this helps.
Jim
|
06-30-2003, 08:19 AM
|
|
Member of the north
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2003
Cobra Make, Engine: A Cobra
Posts: 11,207
|
|
Not Ranked
I ran the 1/0 stuff with a heat resistant jacket.
Very nice
Trularin
__________________
I'm a writer, feed the artist and buy a book.
|
06-30-2003, 08:35 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Klamath Falls,
Or
Cobra Make, Engine: shell valley
Posts: 246
|
|
Not Ranked
I run #1 welding cable with solder ends cheap works good.
Have fun
Ken
__________________
Talent is your head in communication with your balls.
|
07-02-2003, 07:48 AM
|
|
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Holderness, NH, US of A,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX 4772 old iron FE
Posts: 5,499
|
|
Not Ranked
Check out e-bay they have some cut lengths quite cheap perfect for what you're doing.
|
07-02-2003, 09:58 AM
|
|
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Dublin,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: TBD
Posts: 1,298
|
|
Not Ranked
Hello Bill,
Use #OO welding Cable, it is flexible, stranded, oil resistant and will keep the IR (Ohm's law E (voltage) = I (current) X R (resistance) loss to a minimum. The only down side is to find a buddy with a large cable crimper. I also put a shrink wrap sleeve on the wire to mark the positive and negative for identification down the road.
It is cheap and available at your local auto parts store. The stiffer single strand solid stuff is difficcult to use. The welding cable has a good abrasion and oil resistant insulation on it.
Tony R.
|
07-02-2003, 11:04 AM
|
Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Huntsville, Al, USA,
Posts: 44
|
|
Not Ranked
Bill,
I used 00 welding cable also, and I have never had a "hot soak" hard start problem. But you have to use the solder-on connections and use the cable everywhere. I have seen people use the 00 cable for the pos side then buy a cheap #4 cable at the parts store for the neg side or the ground for the engine.
They will have problems because the ability to carry current is only as good as the lowest rated component in the system.
Keith
|
07-02-2003, 12:15 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Sand Springs,
OK
Cobra Make, Engine: RUCC
Posts: 15
|
|
Not Ranked
Bill
The O would be enough but I always run the OO and another cheap source for it and they can crimp the ends on is a Semi Truck parts house.
Roger
|
07-02-2003, 12:43 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Fort Wayne,Indiana,
Posts: 423
|
|
Not Ranked
You should run a minimum of a 0. You would be best to run a 00 for the heat issue under heavy current loads. Make sure that your connections are crimped well and sealed. A solder pot would work best combined with heat shrink over the actual joint. Make especially sure that you have established bare metal clean grounds and seal the ground point with a conductive grease meant for electrical connections, I would be surprised if you couldn't get a small tube of this at NAPA.
John
|
07-02-2003, 12:56 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Augusta, GA,
Posts: 253
|
|
Not Ranked
I finally bought a crimper for under $30.00. After making numerous cables for cars, boats, lawnmower's etc. I got tired of bugging counter guy at NAPA and bought my own.
www.rjays.com
I also don't agree with using welding cable. If it was so great the auto manufacturer's would use it, especially since its cheaper. It probably works great for these cars, but I don't think it would hold up for years like a duty rated battery cable. I used 2 gauge battery cable and don't have any starting problems. Didn't have any problems bending it either, I mean your not trying to tie bows in it or anything like that, just easy 90 degree bends here and there.
|
07-02-2003, 01:25 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Senoia,
Ga.
Cobra Make, Engine: 427SO with big twin autolite inlines on custom intake, jag rear, top loader, wembeldon white, guardsmen blue stripes
Posts: 3,155
|
|
Not Ranked
Make sure it's zinc coated copper.
__________________
Perry
Remember!, there's a huge difference between a 'parts' changer, and a mechanic.
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:16 AM.
|