Use of newer LED? Bulbs

[Cobra 29]

Has anyone used the newer LED bulbs for brighter tail / brake lights? I understand that they will fit the standard 1157 bulb. Are they brighter? Take more amps? More heat? Thanks

[wizard]

Less heat, less amps, and brighter. I haven't used them or seen them on cars yet, but truckers are going led taillight assemblies for the same reasons. Also, they last forever.

[TomH]

H-D Trucks use them because of the long service life. Unless you get some that are designed to be "plug compatible" replacements for incandescent bulbs, the current draw on LED is too low to trigger turn signal relays.

The LED's brightness and its stark ON/OFF Bright/DIM transition makes it much more noticeable than the standard incandescent bulbs.

[Rick 427 Cobra]

We tried these at a BACC breakfast.
Problem with the replacement bulbs is that they are very directional. Bright from dead on, but if you move off to the side say 10 feet they are invisible. I was at my local Fleetpride dealer today looking at the LED stops for trucks. $46 for a 4" model which has the reflector lense that makes it work. Sealed unit that MAYBE could be modified. Need more info. Some new Infiniti's use LED now.

[Bob Putnam]

Rather than the LEDs, we use quartz halogen bulbs with our S/C taillights. (Not necessarily from that source, though.)

[trularin]

These are excellent!!!

Lower heat and lower current draw. Plus, if you work it, they don't have water problems.

Just my $0.02

[BLACKJACK]

I JUST INSTALLED THE LEDS IN THE BACK OF ERA #273. MAN, THEY LOOK LIKE FLARES WHEN YOU HIT THE BRAKE OR USE THE TURN SIGNALS.

THEY ARE ABOUT (?) 4 INCHES HIGH BY 1.5 INCHES WIDE AND HAVE 70 OR MORE LEDS. (I DIDN'T COUNT THEM BUT THERE IS A BUNCH). GOOD VIEWING ANGLE IS ABOUT 45 DEGREES EITHER SIDE.

I'M NOT HOME RIGHT NOW SO IF ANYONE WAN'TS THE NAME OF THE MANUFACTURER E-MAIL ME.

I BELIEVE I PAID ABOUT $ 120.00 FOR THE PAIR, INCLUDING SHIPPING.

Y'ALL HAVE AREALLY GREAT DAY,

BLACKJACK


PS: HAD I THOUGHT ABOUT IT I WOULD PROBABLY HAVE TRIED BOB PUTNAMS IDEA FIRST - - JUST NEVER OCCURRED TO ME. (LIKE A LOT OF THINGS).

BJ

[Cobra 29]

The LED bulbs I saw are a direct replacement for the 1157 bulb. They fit into the same socket and have the same bulb (globe) size. They include a ring of LEDs around the outside with a single and larger LED in the middle. I believe that they would fit within the round stop light lens on the SC. Anyone use these?

Bob, I may just try the brighter halogen bulb.

[Robert T. Faust]

WOW, $120 for 2 bulbs?????? Ouch, guess I'm too cheap, think I'll wait awhile.
Bob

[G.R.]

Led lamps have been a growing part of marine lighting technology for about the last 5-6yrs--pros: brighter light, minimal amp/power draw for given wattage of a comparable 12v incandescent, no heat build-up,extremely long life--cons: expensive, initialy--I used Leds on my running lights and anchor light on my sailboat for about 4 yrs never had to replace one, whereas I frequently had to replace standard bulbs, and Halogens(they dont like lots of motion shock)--on a dark night I could always spot my boat's masthead led anchor light at a crowed anchorage from shore because it looked like Venus among the other stars because it was so bright.

I used Halogens and they work great, bright, relatively in expensive, but they have a short life if exposed to moisture or motion shock---because of the heat they can melt plastic lens coverings and they draw lots of amps for the same wattage 12v incandescent.

The 1127 style led bulbs I've seen in use in some H/D trucks and cars are much more visible from behind and up to 90deg on the side, depending upon the vechicle's lens refraction.

I used a 1150(?) single filament Led for my anchor light about $30--the dual element 1157 led was about $40 at West Marine--about 4-5 years ago--they are 12v auto style bayonet bulbs--

I've looked into automotive Leds and the prices are $$$$heavy-
Think I may go to the Chandlerey and buy my Leds

[Len Hurlburt]

Try this website:
www.wire-works.com

They seem to have a good selection of bulbs and be sure to check out their selection of brake light switches.

[Doug I]

LED's light up faster than bulbs.

I was testing Ultra Bright LED's for use in road "cats-eye" markers 3 years ago. We could see them at 1/2 a mile (at night) - which was a bit much but thought they'd make great brake lights and the std. or bright LED's would make good taillights.

Wonder if the white ones would work as headlights ..........

[George Snyder]

I tried them and they did not work. I was told exactly what TomH stated eariler. The stop bulbs also need added resistance to operate.
I finally just installed a license plate frame with LED strip attached. It works as both parking and brake light. It works great, but brighter turn signals would be nice also.

Bud

[zimmy]

The 1"x4" LED strip sold by Lambert Enterprises (www.lambertenterprises.com) works extremely well in the Lucas rectangular tail lights. It is necessary to use a Dremel to take out the extra plastic etc in the lamp assembly to make them fit, but it is easy and very worth it. In both my case and Blackjack's, the flasher worked as normal. It is true that the lLED's will draw a lot less so some of the older heavy duty flashers will not operate. You only have to go to a new style flasher to get them to work. No real issue. Check Lambert - great guy with lots of good advice and help. They really work!!!!

[zimmy]

In response to a private email I described what was necessary to get the LED from Lambert to work in the Lucas rectangular tail lights. I'll post here for anyone interested. Call me if you have any questions (703-669-2208):


The LEDs that I used are part number LE-412. When you go to the web site, they are listed under "Custom". They are brake and turn signal combined.

I'm sorry but I don't have any pictures, but I can tell you what I did. (Please call if you would prefer- I would be happy to talk to you about them as well (703-669-2208)).

1. After you carefully pry the small chrome-like arms up from the sides of the trim piece, disassemble the lense and bulb holder. Be very careful with the tabs. They are very soft metal and can break off easily. Use a small screwdriver under them and pry up VERY slowly until you have just enough room to get the back off.

2. Using a Dremel or similar tool, you will have to grind away the red plastic middle bar of the Lucas lens to make clearance for the LEDs. You will also have to grind down both end posts where the screws go so that you can put the LED board in and still get the back on flush. This is a little bit tricky as you have to be sure to leave enough screw hole left to screw in the screw when you re-assemble. My advise here is to go very slowly and keep checking until you have just enough removed. Easy to take a bit more - very hard to put it back. It will also probably be necessary to trim a bit of the cicuit borad around the end to get everything to clear. There is a bit of interference with the back of the back plate where the screw heads are ground off. Just be careful of the circuits. There should be plenty of excess board.

3. Very carefully (so you don't hurt yourself) use a cut-off wheel on the Dremel to cut out the bulb holder from the back. You will need to remove this whole piece as the wires from the circuit board come off right in the middle of the back and will interfere with the bulb holder.

4. I strongly suggest that you completely cover the back of the circuit board with a couple layers of Duct tape to cover all of the pins and circuits. This will insure that nothing gets shorted. Don't use more than maybe 2 layers as it will get too thick.

5. Reassembly the light. Before bending down the tabs (hold in place securely instead), hook up the wires and test operation (running lights, turn signals, and brake). Easier to fix unnoticed shorts on a pin or something before full re-assembly. If all is okay and it should be, carefully bend down the tabs and re-attach to the car.

If the flasher unit doesn't work, it just means that the current drain is too small to activate the flasher. You can either get a new flasher that works with less current draw ( I can check the number on mine if you want) or you can contact Lambert and he has a small load that can be wired in series that will correct the problem. He is a great guy that can be a fantastic help with any electrical questions. He seems very knowledgable about the Lucas lights, the application, and making the system work.

Good luck:

Corey Zimmerman