Harmonic Balancer Question

[Steve Vague]

Is it possible that my Harmonic Ballancer can be 180 degrees out? I am replacing my distributor and in presetting #1 to TDC, the only "notch" is (approx) 180 out. I am sure #1 is at TDC. I am not sure of HB however. By the way this is an '80 302, with TBI, non ajustable timing.
Thanks in advance!

[Rick Parker]

I think what you are experiencing is the oil pump drive preventing the distributor from engaging the camshaft drive teeth. If you can remove the distributor and look into the bore where it goes. in the bottom is a hex shaft that drives the oil pump from the bottom of the distributor. Do not try to lift it out or try to
remove it. Rotate the shaft about 45 degrees (use a long set of needle nose pliers or a dummy distributor without a gear) and try refitting the distributor, keep turning and refitting it until the distibutor drops right in where you want it.
If this is not the correct interpretation of your problem forgive my long winded solution.

Rick

[cobrabuilderI]

One thing I learned when checking my firing make sure TDC is compression- could account for 180 off. When I was checking timing didn't bother to look at balancer just checked compression stroke TDC on #1 cylinder and then looked at distributor cap-#1. My advice is if it was running, don't screw with the insides. Must be the new distributor that needs some adjustment. Is it compatible with engine? Just asking.

[GeorgiaSnake]

My damper is keyed and can't be put on incorrectly. You must not have TDC.

Randy

[Steve Vague]

The engine ran, and I am positive of TDC (compression, #1). I am not clear about rotating oil pump. Would this not change the timing ..180 degrees? If so, is this a problem, or would this just reset timing sequence?

I am planning on installing a new distributor,(MSD) but with all the changes I am making I was trying to reduce the "unknowns" . IE when engine refuses to fire up after all my changes, I wanted to reduce the potential "ROOT CAUSES".
Thanks for your ideas!

[Steve Vague]

or would this just reset timing sequence?

SHHSH,
Forget I wrote that!

[Cobra20646]

Steve,

If your dead sure that your #1 piston is at TDC (compression or exhaust, don't matter) and the balancer is not indicating 0 degrees ( or something plus or minus a few ) than it may be possible that the outer ring on the balancer has shifted, in which case a new one is in order. Not a common problem, but one that has been noted more than once on this forum.

- Jim -

[TonyMadrid]

I don't know if this might help. I have a 1969 351W and the damper timing marks are on the wrong side. I found out that in 1969 the marks were on the driver's side because the water pump inlet was on the passenger side. I am using a later water pump that has the inlet on the driver's side and I should have also gotten the damper that has the marks on the passenger side.

I don't know if this may be the problem you're having, but it is just a thought.

Also, what I did to set up my timing was I used a tool I bought from Speedway motors. The tool threads into #1 plug hole and in the center of the tool there is a threaded shaft. The method I found to work most accurately is to bump crank the engine until you feel compression at #1. Then insert the tool and hand crank the engine until the top of #1 piston hits the threaded shaft. make a mark on the damper with a marker or a scribe. Then hand crank the engine in the opposite direction until it again stops (piston again hitting the threaded shaft). Make a second mark on the damper. Then measure the distance between the two marks you made divide it in two. This will be the center of the distance between the two marks and it will be the TRUE TDC of #1.

I then installed a timing mark degree tape onto the damper placing TDC at the previously determined mark. The degree tape is available from Summit and it provides bright yellow timing degree marks against a black background making it easy to view when timing the engine. You will have to know the diameter of your damper when you order the self-stick tape.

Just another tip; if your rocker covers are off you should watch the action of the rockers to assure what stroke of the cycle you're on.

Hope this is helpful.

Tony

[Steve Vague]

Thanks for your replys. This tread was moved to "Did I Stump the Experts?".

Your feed back is simliar to others I received and appreciated. Tony, your suggestion was my fall back position and my prefered course of action. However now I believe my balancer may have indeed spun. Not sure of long range ramifications if this condition were to be ignored untill the motor was overhauled.

Thanks again for the input.
PS this reply may be posted twice, as my first went into Etherland~!

[Cobra20646]

Originally posted by TonyMadrid


I don't know if this might help. I have a 1969 351W and the damper timing marks are on the wrong side. I found out that in 1969 the marks were on the driver's side because the water pump inlet was on the passenger side. I am using a later water pump that has the inlet on the driver's side and I should have also gotten the damper that has the marks on the passenger side.

Tony,

I had the same problem....... but by installing a FMS timing pointer on the passenger side and moving the timing light pickup over to the number two cylinder, the marks will line up. Gets a weird look from others as you're using number 2 to locate TDC

I thought about the degree tape too, but figured I'd probably booger it up putting it on

- Jim -

[trularin]

Just to add on to the heap, there are two revolutions for every one. Crank to cam.

You can have your distrubutor 180 out. A balancer would be pushing it.

Just my $0.02