oil temperature

[werthie]

What is the appropriate oil temperature for a small block Ford? My SW gauge tops at 270 degrees, and I seem to be running between 220 and 270, even on cool days, and even though the water temp is at a constant 160. Is this normal?
Many thanks,
Alan in L.A.

[PatBuckley]

270 sounds a little high - you may want to check the guage?

[werthie]

i'm thinking maybe the sender is the culprit . . . .

[PatBuckley]

It would be the first thing I would check. After the oil level!

[KobraKarl]

my oil temp rarely exeeds coolant temp..


kk

[427 S/O]

KK is right, both should be about the same.

[Bob In Ct]

My 351W runs water temperature of about 185 and the oil usually stays around 180 on summer days. I block the cooler in cooler temps or the oil doesn't get above 160. The sensor is located before the cooler.

Bob

[vettestr]

You want the oil temp to exceed the boiling point of water or above about 210 so it can outgas the condensate and other contaminates. You also want it to reach operating temp as soon as possible so a bypass to cooler or a control valve is a must to help oil reach that temp in cooler country. Most or average oils want to be about 220 / 240 as ideal with cooler keeping below the 270 range. You can go to Valvoline oils web site and get all spec's and written better too!
All manufacturers have great info available and will dispell old beliefs like needing high oil pressure from heavier oil weights . Idle P of about 25 hot is fine and the 60 lbs I wanted years ago just takes HP to create. Higher pressure will help if sytem has volume problems but if all is right the lower pressures are actually best.
I build a PRE oiler system that pressurizes system before starting and supplies oil pressure if a fault happens while turning engine off at same time to save engine components. Everybody should build one. THEY WORK!!

[REDSC400]

Vettestr:
Please tell me about the Pre Oiler. Is yours the Accusump unit from Canton? I like the sounds of that pre oiling. Since my 428FE has Hydraulic lifters, I would like to run the preoiler to build pressure before starting. Where is the reservoir located and also, do you run an oil cooler as well? I have an oil cooler.

What would I need to add (and where) to retrofit a pre oiler system to my 428FE? Do you have a gauge on the dash for it? A switch to invoke it?

Ahh Yessss....One more switch in the cockpit would be grand.

Thanks in Advance Amigo!

[mikiec]

Once warmed my oil temp stays at 230 degrees. Occasionally up to 250 if I drive it hard but then cools off. I do not use an oil cooler.

Motor is a 302 with a stock lower end. pressure 30 at ilde and 55 at speed,

Mike

[werthie]

Hi Mike,

This makes sense to me. My SW gauge is calibrated with 190 straight up, and then 220 and 270, with those last two very close together. I'm probably at around 230 after everything is fully warm, as well. This seemed high to me, particularly with only 160 water temp, but, from what I'm reading, all seems fine.

Many thanks, as always.

Alan in L.A.

PS Interestingly, the slightly newer SW oil temp gauges top out at 325, instead of 270. Others must have been concerned, too.

PPS I'm pegging my SW oil pressure gauge at 80 psi

[Tony Radford]

Alan, my Windsor runs a constant 230 degrees when I'm screaming down the Interstate and around 190 when I'm tooling around town. Water temp is a constant 160 degrees in either condition.

[vettestr]

redsc400, I built my own system to meet all my needs. Turns on warning light if P drops, turns engine off if drops too far and will pressurise system before start up no matter how long it sits between start-ups. I had a solenoid built to my spec's and I use 2 pneumatic pressure switches for control. The first set 25 psi turns on red warning light and actuates solenoid to subsidies oil supply to engine. If pressure does not increase or if it falls to 15 psi then second switch removes signal to fuel pump or ignition if running a mechanical pump killing engine while pressure from reservior continues to feed engine until it stops saving engine from more damage.
The engine can only be restarted by holding a bypass switch. You need this to restart after fault repaired or an oil change with new oil and not pressureized. The key is the solenoid for all these features. Mine does all this automaticlly. You can do this with cheaper ones but they leak back into system and I found out if you let her sit for 1 to 2 weeks it has lost pressure with the cheaper sol.
Has 1 connection or # 6 line to engine and mounts behind front wheel near the side louver area. The electrical connection is very basic also. I have built a few kits for friends and a few for race cars. Put 1 on my Dads RV and it sits for long time between start ups but always working great.

[REDSC400]

Vettestr:
That sounds like a nice system. Did you build it as a reaction to some oil pressure loss event?

You mention, that some systems will not hold pressure over time or loose pressure after say a few weeks? That is not good. It is in those times that you really need the pre oiler I would imagine.

Sounds like you have built a dual purpose unit... one that pre oils and one that is a disaster recovery backup with warning.

When you do an oil change, how do you evauate the few quarts of oil in the cannister so that it is changed out as well?

Thanks for sharing that info. Much Appreciated.

[vettestr]

Thanks Art,
I run an Alky funny car and pulling chutes starves oil supply for a second or so starting me wondering about other engine types and ways to fix. I started installing the just red warning light on engines and found the light would flicker under HARD driving conditions like square corners or hard braking with wet sump engines even with trick pans etc.. I always put the accusump design oilers on these engines but control was just a manual ball valve. So went back and started to find ways to make them fool proof or automatic and this is final design. I went a few steps farther to make electronics that delay key start signal activate pre-oiler and engine does not turn over until pressure is at a minimum set point. Put all this on wifes car and worked all the bugs out much to her delight. Final word was play with my own toys and leave hers alone other then simple Must Do's.!
The system dumps 70 to 80 % on all pre-oils but does have provisions for 100% on oil change. The wife model is all electronic and works by turning key with everything invisible to her. The racers want their own buttons and only some features are automatic. Went so far as copyright and patent but have never marketed. I have one for turbos and shut down problems of coking the oil . Have another for BIG equipment that also extends service intervals plus pre-oils.

[vettestr]

redsc400,
Well Art this one twisted a little from original question but did you solve your low/high oil temp issue. Are you planning on building a system to pro-oil and recovery save low oil system?
With the colder weather I bet low oil temp is a problem many are overlooking and causing undue wear to their investment or engine.

[REDSC400]

Vettestr:
What I did was cut a nice piece of PlexiGlass the same size as the oil cooler and using that new clear automotive duct tape (Autozone) I fastened the plexiglass to the front of the oil cooler. YOu have to really look hard to see it is there. Covered the back of the cooler as well with duct tape. Engine oil temps are now up about 20 degrees to say 210 according to my oil temp gauge.

I will be investigating the oil sump pre-oiler over the winter and get some more points of data. Worked on the car for the last two days, changing fluids and cleaning.

She is in tip top shape now. Was using a new crawler from Summit Racing (early Xmas present from the family). My arms are tired.

[RPRICE]

I run an electric preoiler on my car. Made by oilmatic I think. They make several models. This one can be programed to run for 30 seconds at shut down so as not to cook the oil left in the bearings. Used on airplanes and equipment with turbos to cool them down. Will also kick on if preasure drops too low.
Richard
Memphis