Hydraulic or cable?

Gman1013 · #1 (**permalink**) 12-16-2003, 01:04 PM

I have a Shell Valley Cobra with an auto trans. that I am replacing with a World class T5 over the winter. Would it be easier to use a a cable actuated clutch or a hydraulic assembly? Which would be better?

RockSnake · #2 (**permalink**) 12-16-2003, 04:36 PM

I HIGHLY recommend hydraulic. I used the Mustang cable. With a heavy-duty Ford clutch in my 302, I'm having to adjust the cable about every 500 miles. After 3500 miles, I'm almost out of adjustment. The 'feel' of the clutch also changes constantly.

The cable will likely be easier to install, but I don't think you'll like the results.

hog · #3 (**permalink**) 12-16-2003, 04:45 PM

This is what I used on my Shell Valley with a Tremec 3550. It worked fine. Bled itself gravity. Have about 700 miles with no problems
hog

http://www.autoworks.cc/65-70%20for...clutch_kits.htm

Gman1013 · #4 (**permalink**) 12-17-2003, 05:24 AM

Thanks for the advice. That hydraulic setup looks awsome!! I think I will pay out the extra $$ and go with that setup.

Greg

Jack21 · #5 (**permalink**) 12-18-2003, 03:47 PM

Au contrare, M'seur.

I used a cable clutch setup. 15,000 miles, no problems, and no adjustments as of yet.

The setup used was the aftermarket BBK clutch quadrant, cable, and firewall adjuster. I grafted the quadrant onto the CR clutch pedal arm, and replaced the MII firewall cable mount with the BBK adjustable.

Initial clutch adjustment made under the car from the clutch fork. Subsequent incremental adjustments to be made from firewall mount. BBK cable is Teflon coated, there is virtually no friction in this setup.

Shell Valley not much different from Classic Roadsters, heve pix if interested.

Gman1013 · #6 (**permalink**) 12-19-2003, 09:20 AM

Jack,

If you have pictures you could send, that would be a great help. I am not 100% sure which set-up to use.

My email is now greg.lolly@verizon.net

Thanks,

Gman

DaveR · #7 (**permalink**) 12-20-2003, 08:53 AM

Jack21,

Please send me your pics too.

Anybody else have an opinion about hydraulic versus cable? I'm at that stage of my build and need to choose within 2 weeks.

Dave

CowtownCobra · #8 (**permalink**) 12-20-2003, 08:59 AM

hydraulic, no question

DaveR · #9 (**permalink**) 12-20-2003, 12:07 PM

Would you mind elaborating about why you prefer hydraulic?

CowtownCobra · #10 (**permalink**) 12-20-2003, 05:55 PM

I've driven cable clutch cobras, and the force required was high. The hydraulic is smoother and easier. Look at the history of automobiles, brakes were once cable driven, but find a cable driven brake today.

Just my $0.02

Jack21 · #11 (**permalink**) 12-20-2003, 06:19 PM

Cable! No question!

Look, it's your money, and your car, and your hassle either way.

There's a lot to be said against the Ford factory cable setups which is why the afretmarket late Mustang guys came up with some of the stuff they sell. All I can share with you is, "I tried it, this is what I used, this is how I did it, this is is what worked, and this is what I might have done differently."

Using the BBK aftermarket clutch quadrant grafted onto the CR clutch pedal upper arm, firewall adjuster, and clutch cable has, for me, been a trouble free, and maintenance free setup for 15,000 miles, and no anticipated maintenance problems or issues for the next 85,000 miles when replacement of the cable may be required along with new clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing.

Send me your e-mail address, and I'll send you shots of my install, discuss the process with you, then it's your shot to call. As with anything Cobra, it's not quite as easy as it looks, but the results are worth the effort.

What do I get out of it? Not reading these posts where guys should be out driving their Cobras, are instead under their Cobras in the garage pulling the trans out trying to solve hydraulic slave cylinder, or hydraulic throwout bearing problems.

Are we having fun yet??? The right answer is YES!

Jack21 · #12 (**permalink**) 12-20-2003, 06:28 PM

DaveR, please send e-mail address so I can send shots of install. Haven't figured out how to post pix on forum yet.

Dwight · #13 (**permalink**) 12-20-2003, 06:30 PM

I USED THE MUSTANG QUADRANT WITH A CABLE. I HAVE A MCLOAD CLUTCH AND A TKO. 4700 MILES NO ADJUSTMENT OR PROBLEMS. IF ALL THE MUSTANGS USE THIS SETUP WITH NO PROBLEMS, THEN I THOUGHT IT WOULD BE GOOD FOR ME.
MY BUDDY HAS A 302 WITH A T-5 AND HYDRAULIC CLUTCH. IT IS SMOOTHER AND EASIER, BUT SLOWER TO SHIFT.
EACH TO HIS OWN!!

strictlypersonl · #14 (**permalink**) 12-21-2003, 05:35 AM

If you use a hydraulic clutch, it's absolutely necessary to use at least -4 hose size between the master and slave cylinders. Smaller than that will slow release enough so that quick shifting will trash the disk pretty quickly. (And our hose is only about one foot long!)

I learned that the hard way.

ENTDOC · #15 (**permalink**) 12-21-2003, 09:06 AM

I used the autoworks hydraulic unit and a 3/4 Wilwood master cylinder.30 minute hookup,clean and neat.You can easily find a cheaper slave unit and make your own bracket but the autoworks unit is slick. chuck

DaveR · #16 (**permalink**) 12-21-2003, 09:55 AM

strictlypersonl,

Which master and slave did you use - I would think that the inlet fitting on each is another possible flow constraint? How many miles on yours?

DaveR · #17 (**permalink**) 12-21-2003, 10:10 AM

strictlypersonl,

I just searched for the CNC slave cylinder, and it comes with 3/16" inlet fitting. A bigger hose might not help on this unit. Great sight though, I bookmarked immediately.