Calling All ENGINEERS...Scattershield Question??

[RICK LAKE]

Sal Gerace Sal which multi clutch are you talking about? The McLoed twin disc is OK on the street I know of a couple of people that are running it with no problems WHEN SET UP RIGHT. If it's a tilton little 7 inch clutch I wouldn't do it. It heats up quick and there is no cool air to keep the temp down. You can go to the Kit car show and buy 2 or 3 of these clutches for 400-500$. They cost a grand, what's that tell you. Match the clutch to your driving and wieght of the car. If you like to race a little go with a 15 lbs flywheel. If parades are the winner stay with the 40 lb. If you want to read a good article of flywheels goto www.musclemustangfastfords.com FEB 03 pg 83 Mass vs. Myth Good article on flywheels and clutches. I think this will answer your own questions. If you can't get it, give me a call after 7:00pm with a fax number and I will send it to you in a couple of days. Rick Lake Nice to see the car in the summer, You going to DVIIII ? My car is not on the street now. Get ready for the snow Later my number is 732-254-3536 ps what works in 1 car doesn't work in your car, Different motors,trans, driving styles, car wieghts etc. Here's my set up, 360 hp 440 tork motor, FI,, 5spd for racing 6spd for the street. 3.31 Jag rear. I had a 40 lb flywheel, went to a Hayes 15or 18 lb flywheel, the car runs faster and rev's quicker. Gold clutch pressure plate without the wieghts on the plate, had problem shifting over 3500 rpm when racing, weights locking up the plate and wouldn't shift, up or down. 3200 lb plate. ran 10 1/4 miles with 5 minute cool down and on last 2 runs clutch started to go away. Very happy with set up. Later Sal

[Bud Man]

Sal:

I am running the "Cobra" marked nodular iron bellhousing that was one of about a dozen units recast by Wedge in Southern California and sold thru Motorsports International. I am assuming that you have the same unit. The original units made in the '60's were NHRA certified and were marked accordingly. The contemporary replica is not certified and thus not marked as such, but is identical and like the original is beautifully machined.

I decided to use the Wedge unit for a couple of reasons. First, for authenticity. Second, for fit. After mounting, the concentricity dialed out at +/- .001" without any alterations and the overall fit was spectacular. The only issue I had was that I was not able to use a diaphragm style pressure plate, because the inner dimensions of the bell would not accommodate the height of the pressure plate's "hat". You may be prevented from using a multi-clutch set up for the same reason. I went to a McLeod Ford style three finger pressure plate, single disk, McLeod hydraulic T/O and couldn't be happier with my decision. Clutch operation is smooth and precise, without the hard pedal effort that a three finger setup is often associated with.

A Lakewood will hold up to most everything, but there is no guarantee that these nodular iron units, as robust as they are, will do the same.

I guess it still gets down to what makes you comfortable.

Hope this helps.

Bud

[speed220mph]

This is a three-disc 10-inch McLeod unit that was originally faced with organic linings. These linings were quickly destroyed because of the high revving 370 cid small block we were running with a 2.50:1 final drive. Starting our runs at Bonneville was brutal on them, so we refaced them with ceramic pucks, which turned out to be indestructable. Set two records over 200 mph with this setup without a whimper.

Our toes were protected by a McLeod scattershield. As for the clutch, I wouldn't recommend such a setup for the street due to aggressive engagements--no sprung hub--but a two-disc setup with a sprung hub should work fine. For high revs, you still need protection against that rotating stuff exploding.

[Steve R]

[BLACKJACK]

OUCH!!!

THAT'S SCARY, STEVE. NO TEXT NEEDED.

THANKS.

Y'ALL HAVE A REALLY GREAT DAY.

BLACKJACK

[RedBarchetta]

Do all scattershields need to be "dialed-in"? I've read a few installs on late model Mustangs whereby you have to measure the runout with a dial caliper and use offset dowels if necessary to center the unit to the flywheel. Is this true on Cobra installs as well? I guess I can understand that casting differences from block to block can vary slightly....I'm just not used to installing "bolt on" parts that require so much engineering...

-Deano

[RICK LAKE]

Red Barchetta Red you would be foolish to not check the runout. It takes 15 minute. The downside is a broken clutch, input shaft on the transbearings prewear out, pilotbushing falling out of the crankend, Wearingout the starter drive on the flywheel, and hard shifting. Clutch is 300$, starter drive is 100.00$ transmission input 200.00, if you can repair it, I pain in the A$$. What's it worth?? Have a nice day Red Rick Lake

[RedBarchetta]

Rick, I'll probably have a mechanic friend assist with this one. I can yank the tranny and clutch on my own; I just don't have the right tool nor the expertise for this 15 minute exercise. At least it doesn't look complicated. Thanks.

[cbhunter]

help!!, I am installing a Lakewood bellhousing ,a 408 stroker Southern Automotive and Tremec in my Superformance . the clutch arm and the slave cylinder on the blowproof hit the frame . Dont want to put the stock Ford housing that came with the 351w back in. Is it possible to get the Lakewood to fit? Does anyone use an internal hydraulic throwout bearing? It looks like a good solution?

[Bud Man]

CANNOT overstate the importance of dialing in the mainshaft when ANY bellhousing is installed on a powertrain. I have heard of folks taking an out of the box Lakewood, installing it and finding that it is right on.....this is rare.

Yes, it is a pain in the neck, but as others have said, the penalty for not doing so ranges from hard shifting all the way to destroyed transmissions. Actually, once your dial indicator is set up, the hardest part is done. The rest just takes time and patience. Strive for a minimum of +/-.003" or better.

A reminder: If you are using a Lakewood, be sure to use the offset dowels available from Lakewood to align your bell. Some folks drill the bells mounting holes oversize and then weld washers after the bell is centered, but doing any welding on a SFI certified bell may void the certification.

Tip: Make sure that prior to setting up your dial indicator, that you lightly sand the edges of the trans locating hole to remove any paint that could build up and cause an erratic reading.


Bud