Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary, 427 FE Center Oiler w/ 48 IDA Webers
Posts: 238
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Go to the Holley web site and check the tech section for Earl's hose. Here's one link to the more common fittings installation instructions. It is very easy to do.
A good trick is to wrap some electrical tape tightly around the area where it is to be cut. Then take a fine tooth hacksaw or Drimel tool with a cutting wheel to cut through the taped area. Do not push real hard when cutting through the braided part so it retains its shape.
It should cut through cleanly and then allow you to insert it easier into the fitting. I actually left the tape on when siding it into the fitting and then cut off the excess so it would not show.
I have had great success with electrical tape as James Baldwin pointed out. Wrap it tight, and leave it in place. Be careful when you cut the braids because they will fray if you don'e take your time.
Joe,
Stick to the Erals fitting. They are much easier than the Aeroquip fittings. Also, I have found that on smaller dia. that tape then a large pair of linesman pliers works well, reinforced package tape works best. Using a multi purpose oil also helps. Don't forget to flush out your hoses after they are assembled . The trick for the Aeroquip ends is to start swearing early and band aids for your fingers.
Location: Broken Arrow. OK ( South Tulsa), USA,
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Cobra Make, Engine: 66 COBRA FE 427 /4SP. (HCS Coupe w/ 408 Stroker and TKO 600 -sold)
Posts: 5,595
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Jay,
You are so right about starting to swear early. I also used the nylon re-inforced package about 1" wide. I also found that a little (very little) soapy water helps a lot. Dremmel tool or Die grinder works best for me.
I like the Aero-Quip fittings best but that is just me.
Clois
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I have to give credit for this idea to my wife. After growing tired of my complaints (and bloody fingers) using the tape method, she asked why I didn't use safety wire and those "fancy pliers" to wrap the end of the hose before I cut it. I put about three wraps of safety wire around the hose, twisted the wire tight and cut right next to the wire with an air-powered cut-off wheel. I slid the wire off the end of the hose and it worked like a charm!
Cobra Make, Engine: I used to fix them for a living
Posts: 2,563
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wrap tightly with masking tape, 3-4 wraps.
Use cutoff wheel or chop saw
slide collar over fresh cut hose
blow debris out of hose with compressed air, give a quick brush to the inside, blow out again
use plenty of WD-40 or similar spray lube while torquing fitting
Don't worry, the next one will turn out better.
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In a fit of 16 year old genius, I looked down through the carb while cranking it to see if fuel was flowing, and it was. Flowing straight up in a vapor cloud, around my head, on fire.
If you are going to do lots of them then the vise inserts that were posted above are indeed a very nice thing to have. To really do this right you need a special tool to assemble the hose ends. Go to aircraft-tool.com and enter the part # 2701 in the search, it's called a hose assembly tool (for some reason I cannot get this to put the link up today). You can buy just the one size or a kit with many sizes.
Now how to make one, tape it tight and use a chop saw to cut the hose, thread the collar on the hose end until it bottoms out (it is reverse threaded). Take the fitting and screw it into the hose assembly tool tight. Put a little white grease on the end of the tool and feed it into the hose carefully so as not to cut the inside of the hose with the fitting or you end up with a blocked hose. While pressing the fitting/tool in with the palm of one hand begin turning the wrench on the tool. On small hose (-3 and -4) it sometimes take a fair bit of pressure to get the fitting started. Tighten the fitting/tool until it is about 1/8" from the collar, remove the tool from the fitting, flush the hose with either air or solvoil. If the hose is short enough look through it to confirm that you did not gouge the inner wall with the fitting during assembly (just make sure there is no solvoil in the hose before you go and hold it up to your eye and the light directly above you. Ask me how I learned that one.)
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My favorite method is to use two screw-type stainless hose clamps about 1/8 inch apart. Cut between them with a cutoff wheel and the braid on both sides is under control. When you get ready to put the collar on, loosen the clamp a bit and it will slide back down the hose as you thread the "collar" onto the hose. After the fitting is installed. loosen the clamp until it will slide over the fitting (or loosen it all the way apart if needed).
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Jim
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A Gnat! Quick, get a sledgehammer!
I just put my first hose end on...did you hear all the cussing? I have the vise inserts and they are helpful. Once I pulled the tape off the ends I was amazed how quickly the braid mushroomed. I just sacrificed my thumbs to get it all bunched together so I could screw and push the hose into the collar. Not very fun but it worked.
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Cobra Make, Engine: SOLD: 2013 Boss 302 Mustang #2775 (both options). SOLD: 95 Mustang Cobra R #4 of 250 "Rosie's Diner" car. SOLD: CCX2-2505, #5 of 7 289 FIAs ever produced at Contemporary! my first Cobra: Unique 427SC w/ 428CJ moder!
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DO NOT take the tape off. What's the point? If you can see tape after you're done, trim it with a razor. The point of the tape it to keep it from mushrooming.
Also, spritz the inside of the hose with some WD40, it will help ease the fitting in place.
I also use AN wrenches to keep from scratching the fitting. If using reg. wrenches, cover fitting in tape. Keep pressure on the fitting in the vise with the heel of your hand and turn the wrench intil the fitting is completely seated.
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-AN fittings and braided hose installation
Made hunrdeds of them
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