Dry Sump info. wanted

[cobrashoch]

I'm starting the process of investigating putting a dry sump on my beast. Don't know a darn thing about them though beyond the most general of stuff. General and specific information (towards 385's) is requested, together with experiences with their use on street cars.
For example- I am presantly using a topside vacuum system. Seems to me that this might not be the right thing to do with a dry sump.
I know this is a large subject, but I've got to start somewhere.
Thanks.

cobrashock

[scottj]

Ron,

With a drysump engine I run vacuum by sealing the engine and using the oil pump to create vacuum. You need a good pump like a Barnes with at least 4-stages. I run a pop-off valve in the valve cover. Vacuum regulators are available also. Here is a link to both items.

http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/vacsys.html

Scott

[cobrashoch]

Scott - A popoff on a blower motor without vacume on the top? Some blowby is normal under boost on even the best prepped engines I've found. I, the very, very uninfoirmed, see pros and cons off the top of my noggon both ways. Neat site with some local guys as dealers that might help me too. My engine man wants me to stay with a wet sump, but I be a bit hard headed though. The money isn't a issue. So we are off!
cobrashock

[RPRICE]

Ron, I split the difference and went with the wet pan, external oil pump. Did not want to route the hoses all the way to the trunk for the oil tank and use 3 gallons of oil at oil change. Using it on a 520cid aluminum engine. Perfect after 1000 miles. Used Avaid pump, which I think is made by Peterson and Jeff Johnson billitt pan. Don't know what your motivation is to use this set up, but mine was to get rid of the cam gear wear problem. Went one step further and used electromotive Tec 3 ignition, so now nothing drives off the cam.
Richard
Memphis

[scottj]

Ron,

I'm not following you, what do you mean when you refer to "topside vacuum"? Please forgive my ignorance when it come to blown drag motors. I've only been down the quarter mile twice.

Scott

[Steve R]

Ron,
put some pictures of that beast in your gallery! Sorry, I have nothing to ad here about your oiling system other than to ask if you have experienced a starvation problem.
Steve

[cobrashoch]

Where to start. This year the NHRA changed some rules on me, for my car. They require me a taller rollbar setup, a fire shield fore and aft and some other minor stuff. I started the process of switching over to a Coan glide this winter so I tore the Cobra down for a tranny switchover. Got 85% of the tranny stuff done, including a massive brake upgrade and a midplate fabracation. Then I sorta shoved the Cobra aside for a Chrysler hemi project car that both me and my son are gluing together. This Cobra has allways been more or less a drag/Street car from it's inception, but has begged to be upgraded to a more road racer format. To that end I ordered a innercooler from Vortec (not on the car yet) and pulled the motor for a bearing check w/ some minor upgrades. Guess what I am saying is the Cobra is all apart now. And it really looks like now is the time to upgrade the whole car to a more road racing friendly format together with the NHRA mandaded changes. So I took the car to local famous race team IRL shop and had the M/S-II front end set up a bit better. My ol' buddys at Kenny Brown told me when I get the whole car back together they will finish setting up the front end for me. That leaves me to the backside of the car. So I pulled the rear end and and that's where I am now.
I plan on upgrading the rear end to a 5th arm setup with a full classic Watts links modification, together with a Dry Sump upgrade. Enter this Thread.
But time is the issue. I've wrote off this summer for the Cobra. I need to finish a blown Challenger (close!) before I can get back to the Cobra. I also signed up for a Cobra kit assembly school listed on this board for this summer, and throw in a couple of other minnor projects and the fling and you can figger the rest.
In the back of my mind I want to build a nice stock type street Cobra too. Enter the school and maybe a Lone Star may be in the future. That is if I can ever get back to the Cobra I have now.
I have allmost ALL the major stuff needed right here in my garage minus the kit, for a streetcar.
Richard - Dry Sump it's got to be. Plan on banging and thrashing at www.putnampark.com at least to strart with. I've had no problems with dist./gears . But that is on my VERY short list of stuff I do watch.
Scott - Topside vac. is just a drag trick used to trick your motor into thinking it has a dry sump, together with a custom Stefs pan and a custom scrapper setup. I don't think I will gain that much power switching over to a dry sump. But I plan on thashing things about a bit more than I have in the past. I have a nice space on the firewall just behind the passinger front wheel thats just calling for a large tank. That way the lines can be kept fairly short I would think. The guys at Earls here in Indy know me. They are a listed dealer for the Petersons site you listed above. I talked to them and they showed me that my vacuum setup is redundant on a dry sump.The Stefs pan could be used on a street Cobra I mentioned above. I just happen to have a fresh stockish 460 sitting under a bench. I called Stefs about a dry sump pan too.
Steve - Don't know how to post pictures. Hot rodder I am, but computer geek I'm not. I keep thinkin' if I send some digital pictures to someone, maybe, maybe,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
cobarshock

[scottj]

Thanks Ron, I was on the same page with you after all regarding vacuum.
Scott

[Steve R]

Ron,
use my e-mail link below and shoot'em over to me. I'll post them for ya.
While were at it, I have a Hemi question for you. I have a 67 GTX that has a Hemi. The valves are sunk into the combustion chambers, plus a few other issues. I think the best way to go is to get a new set from Mopar Performance. I am leaning toward the Aluminum units. This car is to be a hot rod, not a show points getter. Have you heard anything pro or con about these heads? Which is the best place to purchase them from, and why?
Steve

[cobrashoch]

Steve - Re: Hemi Heads. Depends on what they look like when you pull them. Old iron heads somtimes crack in the small area between the valves. Can be fixed together with a re-seat job but the costs may begin to pile up.
I deal with Indy Cylinder head here in indianapolis. Sometimes they can be a pain, but if you can get through to Russ Flegel the owner, he is one of the good ones. They sell the raised port ( old D4) type head in house, that the top fuel guys use. It's good for about 50 to 75 more horsepower over stock street hemi heads static. They sell that style of performance head in both iron and aluminum, one and two plug setups. The backside is they cost the same as the Mopar units when all is said and done. Indy will sell you the Mopar heads about as cheap as anyone else too. You will not have any problems running either style as they are both over engineered to blower engine specs. As for pictures, I will have my son fly some over to you sometime this weekend IF he shows up. Comin' at ya, I won't forget.
Cobrashock

[Steve R]

Ron,
Thanks. I'll keep an eye out for them.
Steve