wilwood brake problems

RPRICE · #1 (**permalink**) 04-18-2004, 04:49 PM

Have any of you with Wilwood brakes had the pads not retract and cause excessive drag? If it is the pistons, are they replaceable or do you use new calipers, etc. It is happening on both fronts but the left is has much more drag than the right. Is it a master cylinder issue? Any advice?
Richard
Memphis

Bruce Edwards · #2 (**permalink**) 04-18-2004, 05:08 PM

What kind of master are you using? One made for drum brakes will have built in check valves and cause the caliper to hang till the pressure bleeds off. Or does the car have any check valves in the lines? These would be small and look like long connectors holding to lines together.
Of course it you pinched a flex line it will do the same thing.
Also if the caliper was rebuilt and the o-ring was twisted it will also cause the caliper to hang.

Hal Copple · #3 (**permalink**) 04-18-2004, 07:11 PM

i have run both the Dynalites and now the big Superlites on my car, and never had a problem, even on the track. I have seen one SPF that tracked a lot, and got a lot of track stuff in the caliper, and it drug a bit, it was thoroughly cleaned out with brake cleaner and a brush, and was fine. What symptoms do you have that give you cause to think you have braking problems?

I don't think there is any means to retract the pad from the disk, just that without line hydralic pressure, it moves slightly off the disk until line pressure is applied again. Once, i was replacing my race pads, and somehow forgot to get out one race pad, and my car pulled a bit to that side, but when i put in the street pads on all four sides, it was ok.

Tell us more,

RPRICE · #4 (**permalink**) 04-18-2004, 08:27 PM

Bruce, the mc is wilwood with no check valve. New components, with the same issue on both fronts.

Hal, I just sent you an email reguarding our phone call earlier tonight.

Richard
Memphis

Bruce Edwards · #5 (**permalink**) 04-19-2004, 05:01 AM

Ok, check for pressure in the system after the brakes are applied. Step on the brakes and then let them go. Open the bleeder on the caliper that is hanging. If you get a squirt of fluid the system is holding pressure and it should not be.
The way the calipers "pull back" the pads is very simple.The caliper piston slides out to push on the pad. As it does so it twist the caliper piston seal. If no adjustment for wear is needed the twist on the rubber o-ring will pull the piston back so that the pads do not drag.
Another thing to look for is pad binding. If they are hanging in the caliper or not straight they can get stuck and drag on the pad. With no brake applied the pads should move a bit in the caliper.
Good luck and let me know what you find.
If you still need help you can call me at my shop and I will try to help some more.

Clois Harlan · #6 (**permalink**) 04-19-2004, 09:43 AM

Are you sure your caliper brackets are on correctly? I mounted mine backwards at first and noticed they would not release. I turned them around and everything worked fine.

Clois

Curt C. · #7 (**permalink**) 04-19-2004, 08:57 PM

You may need to replace the seals in the calipers. Too many heat cycels will cool them. Very cheap and super easy to change. Check Willwoods tech line or FAQ. Helpful folk

kingsmt · #8 (**permalink**) 04-20-2004, 10:31 PM

DEAR RPRICE; I THINK THE PROBLEM YOU HAVE IS LIKE MOST OTHERS WITH WILWOOD. HEAT WARPS THE PISTONS AND THEY GET OUT OF SHAPE. IF THE PISTONS ARE STEEL THAT IS WHAT HAPPENS. WE MAKE OUR PISTONS WITH A TEFLON COATING ON ALUMINUM AND ANY RACER WHO SWITHED TO OUR CALIPER CAN NOT BELEIVE THE DIFFERENCE. LOOK US UP... REDDEVILBRAKES.COM THANX DAN