Electrical guru's help here please!!!!

ridelikehell · #1 (**permalink**) 06-06-2004, 06:24 PM

I've posted this question on another forum but I thougt I'd post it here too incase someone might be able to shed some light...
Thanks guys!

http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=169795

Tim Brewer · #2 (**permalink**) 06-06-2004, 08:42 PM

Your main ground wire should not go to the block, instead it should go to the chassis.
Tim

Steve R · #3 (**permalink**) 06-06-2004, 10:44 PM

There should be an electrical path from the engine block to the frame of the car. It should have at least the same load carrying capability as the neg wire that runs from the battery to the frame.
Otherwise, the current during starting will seek another path (through your fuse box it seems) back to the battery.
Steve

Steve R · #4 (**permalink**) 06-06-2004, 11:11 PM

I just read the thread you referenced. When running Battery cables, I use "1-ott" welding cable. You can get it from a good weld shop. It is also pretty inexpensive. While you're there, get some appropriate size copper lugs crimped on to the ends that get terminated with bolts or screws. (You have to plan ahead a little and have your lengths determined) For the battery lugs, purchase the type that you solder the battery cabling into. Your auto parts store should be able to set you up with a solder kit to do this. (You use a propane torch)
Finally, apply heat shrink tube over where the lugs meet the wire. this will help avert corrosion and it looks damn sexy to boot....
I'm sure some will think this is overkill, but D.V. has had great success running the ground wire all the way from the battery negative to the engine block. I have followed his advice and never had a cranking problem.
Steve

dusty50 · #5 (**permalink**) 07-25-2004, 05:26 PM

RLH,
Whether you run cable from the battery to the starter/motor and motor to frame or run battery to frame/frame to motor, the key to both installations is cleanliness and protection. Make sure the areas that will contact the cables are clean to the bare metal. While there are plenty protective ideas for cable ends, I use fords dielectric grease for electrical terminals. Crimp all cable ends and then solder and as Steve suggest, use heat shrink with the glue on the inside. The solder keeps the harmful gases out of the connector and the heat shrink keeps the elements away. Lastly, dont under any circumstance, ground the battery or frame to the transmission!
Usually works fine for a while, but when the bond between the block and tranny starts to corrode, the ground seeks its path thru the next best thing which is all that shiny metal in the bearings. There have been many cases of trannys gone south with bearings that look like a light duty welder has been working on them for some time.
In the emergency vehicles we work on, we go a bit overboard with grounds and do battery to frame, battery to block, battery to body and block to frame.
Take your time and dont scrimp on materials at this point. It will be well worth it in the long run. Hope this helps, dusty

auto10x · #6 (**permalink**) 07-27-2004, 09:12 AM

Since the starter consumes the greatest amount of current of ANY electrical component the ground cable from the negative side of the battery always goes to the engine first.
auto10x
Bill

ridelikehell · #7 (**permalink**) 07-27-2004, 09:21 AM

hey all!...

I'm not sure how this thread got resurected but the problem was solved about a month ago!

Thanks everyone for the advice all the same!