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08-28-2004, 01:49 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Evans,
CO
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 FIA, 347 stroker with Weber 48's, building a '48 Anglia gasser, driving a '55 Chevy resto-rod
Posts: 3,119
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Not Ranked
Tubular upper and lower A-arms MII front end
This fall and winter I would like to replace my stock Mustang II A-arms with tubular ones.
What parts and pieces, who from, would you recommend?
I have Aldan coilovers now on the front with 450#lb springs. This was the spring rate that was on the car when I got it. I've cranked the shocks down almost all the way to lower the frontend and it now handles 100% better than it had---but it is extremely stiff and sometimes jarring on bad roads, so I think the spring rate is too high?
Right now my suspension is in good shape ball joints, steering rack, etc, are near new, less than 1500 miles on them.
So what would your recommendations be re: tubular a-arms, and front shock springs?
__________________
"Breathe in... Breathe out... then move on with life. Lifes too short to sweat the small stuff"
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08-28-2004, 12:41 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Washington DC Metro (Virginia),
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters, Tweaked 351W, T-5Z, CRII Tech Support Team.
Posts: 1,895
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Not Ranked
Post this question on the Classic Roadsters II forum (below) and see what Ed Combs (DV), and Don Scott have to say. They have been through MII front ends a thousand times, and likely have all the parts you need.
I did it the hard way with parts from various souces until I go what I wanted. Your spings are way too stiff for a small block. 350 - 375# will work beter.
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08-28-2004, 08:53 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Evans,
CO
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 FIA, 347 stroker with Weber 48's, building a '48 Anglia gasser, driving a '55 Chevy resto-rod
Posts: 3,119
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Not Ranked
Thanks will try that.
__________________
"Breathe in... Breathe out... then move on with life. Lifes too short to sweat the small stuff"
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08-28-2004, 11:10 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana, U.S.A.,
IN
Cobra Make, Engine: Home built, supercharged 544cu/in automatic
Posts: 924
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Not Ranked
I also agree that your springs are too heavy.
Be also for warned that the stock arms in your MSII setup most likely will be quite a bit a bit stronger (and heavier) than most of the tube arms out there, unless you go to a very high dollar set.
Yes, tube arms are lighter and look better. But the guys that race the MSII stuff all use the stock arms. That's not to say that the tube arms are bad though, chances are your new arms will be o.k. in any Cobra. I esp. like the double tube lower arms that Shell Valley sells for Cobras. hint, hint.
cobrashock
__________________
Ron Shockley
Last edited by cobrashoch; 08-28-2004 at 11:27 PM..
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08-29-2004, 08:32 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: California,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 Slabside Early Comp Car with 289 Webers and all the goodies. Cancelling the efforts of several Priuses
Posts: 6,592
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Not Ranked
__________________
Rick
As you slide down the Banister of Life, may the splinters never be pointing the wrong way 
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08-29-2004, 09:01 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Plantersville,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: Self Built, 427 USRRC, 427FE, Toploader
Posts: 583
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Not Ranked
GR,
If you have the Heidt's, FatMan, or similar inner suspension locating points you WILL NOT improve you handling by merely changing arms.
The 8840 Comp AC/COBRA suspension that makes these puppies handle great have different inner ear suspension pickup points than the STOCK MII points that the rodders use.
Give me the dim on pvt MAIL from the front inside arm point to the other.
You will probably be fighting a GEOMETRY problem, not purchasing pieces problem.
grumpy
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08-29-2004, 08:29 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Evans,
CO
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 FIA, 347 stroker with Weber 48's, building a '48 Anglia gasser, driving a '55 Chevy resto-rod
Posts: 3,119
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Not Ranked
grumpy sent you a pm
__________________
"Breathe in... Breathe out... then move on with life. Lifes too short to sweat the small stuff"
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08-30-2004, 05:07 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kountze,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: CMC, 351 Cleveland, Dual Quads, C6
Posts: 1,377
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Not Ranked
Gary, I bought my tubular arms from Speedway Motors. Am very pleased with them. I did notice a slight improvement over the stock ones.
__________________
David Shelton
Lone Star Gashole!
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08-30-2004, 05:19 AM
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Member of the north
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Join Date: May 2003
Cobra Make, Engine: A Cobra
Posts: 11,207
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Not Ranked
Gary, I have tubular up front and it seems to be okay.
My Aldans have 330 pound springs, but then I do not have a 427 up front.
They are set at 5/8" off the bottom thread and are on # 5 setting for ride.
If you have the frame setup, I would recommend the LoneStar tubular A arms. I am not sure on the ability to swap them out, but It wouldn't hurt to talk to them about it.
I found all your parts and hope to get those out to you today.
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08-30-2004, 07:04 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Fairfield, NJ, USA,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: A & C, 351W, Tremec 3550. Exiled Member: Club Cranky
Posts: 5,897
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Not Ranked
Pole Position makes a really nice adjustable upper arm. In fact, they supply FFR.
http://www.poleposition.com
Roscoe
__________________
Roscoe
"Crisis occurs when women and cattle get excited!"....James Thurber
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08-31-2004, 01:21 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Las Vegas,
NV
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadster; 351W
Posts: 743
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Not Ranked
Bethania Garage makes great units based off NASCAR design. Regardless of geometry issues, stock MII pieces can flex thus introducing more issues.
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