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03-02-2005, 12:39 PM
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Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Duvall,
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Cobra Make, Engine: KMP286, Shelby 482, Webers, 593HP
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Do I need to replace the clutch disc?
This weekend I lost pressure to the HTOB due to my bad install (didn't ensure that the braded bleed line wouldn't move around and it rubbed up against the pressure plate).
So I had a big hole, and presumably, the fluid found it's way on to the disc. Do I need to replace this nearly new disc or can I just clean/rinse move on?
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03-02-2005, 01:13 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters
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That's a good question. There are a lot of good solvents out there that can clean the hydralic (sp?) fluid, but the disc is very porous. If I were you, I would just change it. A disc alone doesn't cost that much.
Ed
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03-02-2005, 01:38 PM
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I'll second Ed's comment. Go ahead and replace the disk. That fluid has a tendency to show up in very unexpected places and you don't want to do the job any more times than necessary.
Use brake cleaner on the surface of the fly wheel and make sure that's squeaky clean also.
DonC
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03-02-2005, 03:37 PM
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Brent Mills Replace the pressure plate and disc. The fluid will soften the material of the disc and it could chunk and fly apart. Flywheel may have the oil in it to. Clean it very go and let dry. If you see little oil spots on the surface after the cleaning you will need to get the flywheel cut. The oil will heat and go back into the disc on the clutch and the same problem will happen with the disc material going soft. I metalic disc may be OK if the oil is burnt off. The pad material is harder but the fluid may leave spots on the flywheel and cause slipping and burning spots. Do it one time and save the pain of having to pull the trans twice.  See what it is to cut the flywheel. $30-40 dollars, get a new surface on the flywheel. Rick Lake
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03-02-2005, 04:16 PM
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While you're installing the new disc, fit check the disc on the shaft splines first. I've actually found one that wasn't broached properly and got stuck on the shaft during installation.
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03-02-2005, 05:38 PM
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While I would consider replacing the disk, depending on what I saw on closer inspection, I wouldn't replace the pressue plate or re-surface the flywheel.
I would clean both metal surfaces with brake cleaner and let it go. MAIN reason I would do it like this is because of the sudden failure of the broken hydro line, it's not like it "leaked over time" and had a chance to "soak in".
It is doubtful, in my opinion, that the fluid would have gotten into or on the clutch disk area. An inspection should reveal if any did.
Of course you can't miss suggesting a guy replace everything, that totally covers your butt no matter what! 
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03-03-2005, 01:28 PM
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Spoke to Mcleod today to order parts....Interestingly the gentleman on the tech line said don't worry about replacing the clutch disc as the fluid is mineral based and evaporates. He said to clean and let sit out for a while to dry, scuff with sand paper the disc/pressure plate/flywheel and have fun.
Hmmm....
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03-03-2005, 01:52 PM
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Good news Brent, They were most kind and replaced my disc when the spring housing broke, under my hard driving!!
I sent you a PM a couple of days ago, any help!
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Remember!, there's a huge difference between a 'parts' changer, and a mechanic.
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03-03-2005, 04:07 PM
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Brent Mills Brent I don't know what knucklehead you talked to at Mcloed, I sure it was not Red. That brake fluid will absorb into that disc, IT WILL NOT EVAPORATE!! I which I had a camera to send you a picture of a zoom clutch that came from my jeep. Brake fluid leaked out the hydro bearing I had into the clutch assembly. R&R clutch clean the fluid out and thought the same. As along as it is clean, it's OK. The disc blew apart 3 weeks later. I didn't have a Lakewood shield in the jeep, lucky all the parts went out the bottom of the bell housing. Should have lost a leg, on trying to do what they told you. I now have lakewood schatter shields on any car with a clutch. That disc does alot when they blow up, pieces fly every where. Put new parts in the car and not worry about trying to save $100.00. Rick Lake
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03-03-2005, 04:47 PM
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Is Red the older gentleman? He seemed to know his stuff, but I agree with you about the disc...
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03-03-2005, 05:49 PM
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Yeah, what do those guys at MeCleod know about clutches anyway!
Hmmmm,,, is right about the disc, I would be skeptical also. BUTT, did it actually get any fluid on it??
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03-03-2005, 07:02 PM
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Brent:
In case you decide to replace the disc (I would), I have an extra disc for sale. Brand new McLeod, 12 inch, 1 3/16" input, 10 spline toploader.
$100.00 plus shipping.
Bud 
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03-03-2005, 09:40 PM
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Bud, do you have a paypal acct?
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03-04-2005, 04:30 AM
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Brent Mills Red is the owner. He sell great products. The twin disc and the softloc are great when setup correctly. My point was that I have seen enought accidents from this kind of simple mistake. The amount of damage can be huge. Just trying to protect you and your car. Rick Lake
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03-04-2005, 05:09 AM
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Brent, sorry to hear about the clutch problem. I was worried about those hydraulic lines also as I'm building mine. No-one seems to make a cover where the clutch fork would normally be and the lines just stick through the hole. I have been told you dont need to cover it... but you have reinforced my decision to close off the hole and secure the lines as they come through it so they wont rub.
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Unique # 4279459
Last edited by KrAzEcJ; 03-04-2005 at 05:18 AM..
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03-04-2005, 07:25 AM
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While it may seem like a big expense, having to pull out the clutch a second time if, in fact, the disc doesn't clean up, would be a major motivator in my wanting to put in a new disc and not fool with the old one.
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