Ballast resistor

my427cobra · #1 (**permalink**) 04-15-2005, 09:41 AM

In preperation to put my 351c dual quad intake on my car, I am redoing the ignition.
My 351c currently has the stock distributor (points type, dual vacuum) and coil, but I can't seem to find the typical white ceramic ballast resistor in the circuit. Could it have an in wire harness resistor wire? And if so, how can I tell.
Since I'm doing my 351c in FE dress, (got the pent roof valve cover and adapter on the pass side and will do the drivers side today) I am using period correct plug wiring, a yellow top coil and a new distributor and wondered what ballast resistor (value?) to use. I have a period correct white ceramic balast resistor I would like to use.
Any idea's or help would be appreciated.
Greg

rdorman · #2 (**permalink**) 04-15-2005, 10:01 AM

I have always seen them as the white ballast hanging on the fire wall on the way to the ignition. Just you basic generic ford resistor. You could always measure the impedance of the curcuit to be sure.

Would LOVE to see and here more about the valve covers.

Thanks
Rick

my427cobra · #3 (**permalink**) 04-15-2005, 10:22 AM

I've watched Superhart's development of his 351 Windsor FE valve cover adapters and dual quad manifold with envy.
Well, I've been hard at work trying to do the same for my 351 Cleveland. The dual quad intake was relatively easy. I just followed Superhart's method and milled off the top of an Offenhauser intake and welded on a dual quad blower plate and presto. A dual quad intake for my 351C. It should be finished in the next week or two and I'll have some pics available. I'll be mounting two Holley 390's and I have no idea how it will run, but that's the next step.
The other hurdle I have yet to overcome is how to hook up the kickdown cable to the C6, since the carbs are reverse mounted and all the linkage is on the pass side. Any ideas?????
I modified a stock 427 FE dual quad fuel log by moving one of the brackets to fit the 351C intake manifold bolt pattern and I'm using the typical dual carb linkage kit and two triple carb linkage kits from Speedway to connect to the gas pedal give it the original look.
I'll also be using a "stock" 427 header tank to add to the look.
The valve covers have been more of a challenge. The 351C valve covers are really wide and the FE valve covers are really narrow. They'll never fit!!!!!
Well, I think I've stumbled onto a solution.I think the trick is to raise the valve cover up high enough to clear the valve train. I've used the 351C valve cover spacers (from Delta Bay Mustangs)which are 1 1/4" high, and this almost gets the FE valve covers up high enough to clear the valve train. But the FE valve covers are still too narrow, so I am fabbing a 1/2" top plate to go on top of the 351C spacer and, presto, FE valve covers on a 351C!!!!!!
Do they look funny stting up so high? Well not really. On the intake pass side with the fuel log and eventually heater hoses, it will be barely noticable. On the intake drivers side with the with the linkage and and some misc wiring, it shouldn't look too bad. And on the exhaust sides, well, they are aren't even visable.
Should be machining up the 1/2" adapter plate this week and will have pics soon.
Once I have it perfected I will be most happy to make my pics and drawings available to all of you 351C users.
Well, back to the skunk works.
That was my posting from about 4 weeks ago. I am a little behind but making slow progress. Hope to have pics tommorrow.
Greg

rdorman · #4 (**permalink**) 04-15-2005, 11:24 AM

I wondered how you solved the skinny little

FE valve cover issue! I did find a guy that makes cast valve covers that look something like pent roofs:

http://www.pricemotorsport.com/Therm...t_housing.html

Not exactly but a similar feel to them I think. Polished up or even plated (can you plate aluminum?) they would look pretty decent.

There was a guy that was looking for a dual four setup for a cleveland here a short time ago. You should look him up and tell him what you had to go through.

I think for the duals the kick down has to be activated some where closer to the pedal rather than the carb. I will poke around and see if I can find a picture.

Rick

my427cobra · #5 (**permalink**) 04-16-2005, 08:56 AM

Hi Rick. I posted 4 pics on my gallery and they showed up in the recently posted pics section also. Don't know how to rearrange the order, but will have to remember to post them in reverse order next time.
One pic shows the 351c 1 1/4" valve cover spacer and a piece of 1/2" al plate (adapter) with the pattern layed out on it.
One pic shows the 351c spacer (blue) on the head.
One pic shows the cut out aluminum plate adapter mounted on top of the 351c spacer.
And the last pic shows the 427 pent roof valve cover on top of the al plate adapter.
Still a little crude but once a shape has been finalized, I plan to have a set water jet cut so they will look nicer.
Please excuse the engine compartment - lots of work to be done here. I ordered a 4x10 sheet of #8 mirror polished 040 aluminum (about $200.00 - sure saves hand polishing) which will be cut to patterns to line the engine compartment. Rerouting all the wiring and relocating all components to more closely replicate the street roadster. I even have a NOS Trico washer system!
I'll post a few progress pics of my car and of my progress.
Greg

Rick Parker · #6 (**permalink**) 04-16-2005, 12:04 PM

Greg:

Most of the NAF cars (mine included) were originally built with donor parts from 74-78 Mustang II's. This also included the steering coumn and various parts of the wiring harness (butchered to varying degrees)and steering column lock mechanism. Some of this can be found directly behind the firewall on the upper portion of the steering column. They had a resistance type wire that went from a switched 12 volt male spade terminal to the (+) side of the coil. If you add an MSD ignition you can eliminate this type of wire since MSD does not use a ballast resistor in the switched 12 volt circuit.

The best thing you could do is to completely rewire the car and incorporate some relays in areas such as headlights, fan, and horn.

Rick

my427cobra · #7 (**permalink**) 04-16-2005, 04:59 PM

Thanks Rick. I'll look for that wire. I plan to re-do all the engine compartment wiring as I will be trying to place all the original components in their right locations as on the street roadster. I have a NOS wiring harness I got years ago so I'll be using that.
Greg

Steve R · #8 (**permalink**) 04-18-2005, 01:22 AM

Quote:

The dual quad intake was relatively easy. I just followed Superhart's method and milled off the top of an Offenhauser intake and welded on a dual quad blower plate and presto. A dual quad intake for my 351C. It should be finished in the next week or two and I'll have some pics available. I'll be mounting two Holley 390's and I have no idea how it will run, but that's the next step.

Runs great. Just ask Dave Shelton.

Steve