Securing steering shaft??? - Page 2

Steve R · #21 (**permalink**) 07-03-2005, 09:02 AM

OK,
I'll let you slide ONE day.

Steve R · #22 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 09:20 AM

zipzip · #23 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 11:32 AM

I'm guessing, but perhaps this is what ROOSTER was describing?

Sorry Rooster, I guess I should read the posts better!

blykins · #24 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 11:49 AM

Flanges...

They have surface rust on them....they sat outside all night.

Steve R · #25 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 12:45 PM

blykins,
Would you post a pic of your setup as supplied from S.V.?
Just my inner geek wanting to see it.

The only thought that comes to mind as far as your flanges go, is the completed shaft/ flange assemblies will probably need to be cut in a lathe so the flanges are as close as possible to 90Deg to the longitudinal axis of the shafts. Otherwise, over time the wobbling shafts will try to crack the flanges off. (if I understand correctly what you are planning)
Steve

Sydney · #26 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 01:19 PM

Hi Fellas,

There's a couple of old pics in my gallery of the SV setup with the 3\4" id tube slipping over the 3\4" od shaft. I just used 2 3\16" shear pins drilled 90* apart from each other. I have power steering though, so I suspect the loading on the pins isn't the same. Now you guys have me thinking again!

Sydney

Steve R · #27 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 01:57 PM

So..... S.V. provides a hunk of unsplined, unaltered bar stock for you to hook up your steering to??

blykins · #28 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 02:17 PM

Steve, my setup is like Syd's...the only thing that is missing is the lower shaft in his picture. As you can imagine, that upper shaft will just slide down inside of it, and the roll pins secure it.

The flanges were cut on a lathe.

I will bolt them together....then slide it on both shafts at the same time and then weld.

I would think (and hope) that it will be square that way. If the bolts are already in the flanges and they're clamped together, they should already be "preloaded" in the correct position. The only other thing I can do is use a square when putting them on....tack it on....then move to the next 90 deg....square...then tack...etc.

The flanges are 1/4" thick...it should have enough meat to square itself up as it's being slid on the shaft.

Sydney · #29 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 03:00 PM

"So..... S.V. provides a hunk of unsplined, unaltered bar stock for you to hook up your steering to??"

Yes Steve that's correct. They also supply a 3\8" roll pin to use and an aluminum collar to cover it up. I felt that the 3\8" pin would weaken the shaft too much so I used the double 3\16" shear pin option. I found that on Borgesons web sight. They mention that even that weakens the shaft by 30%.

Steve R · #30 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 03:20 PM

Sydney,
Thanks. If that were my company (S.V.), I would leave less to the builder's imagination by providing a splined shaft and corresponding joints. Thinking about placing my life in the hands of ONE scroll pin when doing 120mph around a curve gives me the creeps. But hey, they have been in business for a long time.

Are you sure they don't call out for more than one pin?

Steve R · #31 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by blykins

Steve, my setup is like Syd's...the only thing that is missing is the lower shaft in his picture. As you can imagine, that upper shaft will just slide down inside of it, and the roll pins secure it.

The flanges were cut on a lathe.

I will bolt them together....then slide it on both shafts at the same time and then weld.

I would think (and hope) that it will be square that way. If the bolts are already in the flanges and they're clamped together, they should already be "preloaded" in the correct position. The only other thing I can do is use a square when putting them on....tack it on....then move to the next 90 deg....square...then tack...etc.

The flanges are 1/4" thick...it should have enough meat to square itself up as it's being slid on the shaft.

I take it that you will be using close tolerance bolts through the flanges. After you weld it up, it will be easy enough to check the alignment.
Good luck.

Sydney · #32 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 06:28 PM

[quote] Are you sure they don't call out for more than one pin?

Yes Steve. The manual says one pin and they supply one pin. My kit is a couple of years old, so they could could have improved the whole setup by now.

I do feel that the two pins that I have are at least as strong as the rag joint on the other end. That appears to me to be the weak point of the system. Like I mentioned somewhere above, I have power steering so I don't think there is as much force put on the linkage as there is on a manual system. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

Hey Brent, do you have a rag joint on your rack end? And if you do, are you going to do something different there?

Sydney

blykins · #33 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 06:46 PM

Yep. I'm rag jointed.

Haven't thought much about that end. Like you said, it's a weak link.

What are your thoughts? A splined coupler in place of the rag joint?

Sydney · #34 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 08:53 PM

Well Brent I think I'm going to leave it like it is for one season, to see how the road feel and vibration etc. is going to be. There are lots of cars out there with rag joints. I like the looks of those vibration absorbing u-jounts that Borgeson and Flaming River has.

Probably next winter I will replace everything from the steering wheel to the rack with either Flaming River or Borgeson stuff. Man..... this car will never get done!

Steve R · #35 (**permalink**) 07-05-2005, 10:47 PM

Brent,
The dim bulb in my head just got a little brighter.

With your flanges, the lower tubing will still be slid over the steering shaft, providing the alignment, right? I'm not sure how you could go wrong if the welds are good quality.
Steve

blykins · #36 (**permalink**) 07-06-2005, 05:18 AM

Steve,

Yeah, the upper shaft still slides down into the lower shaft. Flanges mate to each other. Bolt holes are close tolerance holes. Dad's doing the welding, so I shouldn't have any problem with weld quality.

Syd....I'm kinda like you. I have no road-time on the car whatsoever...so I'll have to see what she drives like before I delve any deeper into the steering system.

Steve R · #37 (**permalink**) 07-09-2005, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Steve R

OK,
I'll let you slide ONE day.

6 Friggen days.

tpiini · #38 (**permalink**) 07-09-2005, 07:31 PM

I P.M.'ed you four or five days ago. But now that I check the P.M.'s, it's not there. Perhaps my "send" finger wasn't up to the task. I'll try again.

Edit: I just figured out how to check my "sent" P.M.'s. You now have two. One from the 5th and one from a few minutes ago. Check 'em.

rooster · #39 (**permalink**) 07-10-2005, 09:03 AM

Hey zipzip, Your drawing is right on, but give me some credit. Thats my invention, not tpiini's. Thanks

Steve R · #40 (**permalink**) 07-10-2005, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by tpiini

I P.M.'ed you four or five days ago. But now that I check the P.M.'s, it's not there. Perhaps my "send" finger wasn't up to the task. I'll try again.

Edit: I just figured out how to check my "sent" P.M.'s. You now have two. One from the 5th and one from a few minutes ago. Check 'em.

I'll put my PMS

in check and check my PM

I'm just not in the habit of checking it.
Steve