9" Rear End Help Needed!

CaliCobra · #1 (**permalink**) 03-18-2006, 06:41 PM

I was told that the rear axle bearings on my shortened 9" Ford rear need attention.
The car gives off a "crunch/grind" sound when moving forward, even wit the engine off and in neutral.

So, is this something that a beginner/novice mechanic such as myself, can do at home with some tools or should I cart it over to the closest rear end shop on Monday?

I need this car by Thursday for a local show and I've never tried this type of job before.
I'd like to learn, but don't want to open up a can of worms, if this job is deemed difficult by one of you with experience.

PLEASE CHIME IN. I NEED ADVICE!

Especially before I take the path of no return.

-Gio

rblong · #2 (**permalink**) 03-18-2006, 06:48 PM

I do everything but remove and install the bearings themselves. Cost about $35 to have them removed/installed and check your axle runout.

Does not take them anytime, and it is $$ well spent!!

CaliCobra · #3 (**permalink**) 03-18-2006, 07:20 PM

rblong is there a "shop manual" or exploded view of the rear axle or a website to show how to porperly do this? I really am a "beginner"

blykins · #4 (**permalink**) 03-18-2006, 07:24 PM

You can do it if you have a bearing press. A 9" is the easiest to work on....no having to drain the rearend grease or pull the c-clips.

You'll need to remove the brake calipers and rotors....then unbolt the axle flange from the axle housing. You a slide hammer or something similar to pull the axle out of the housing. The bearing will be pressed on the axle. Just press it off and press a new one on....then reverse install.

If you have a press, this is an easy job.

sharpe 1 · #5 (**permalink**) 03-18-2006, 07:27 PM

You should be able to get this information from any chilton's or mitchell auto manual. You need the model year of your axle and go the library to get information and make copies to keep in your records.

CaliCobra · #6 (**permalink**) 03-18-2006, 08:01 PM

I did look for a manual, but no luck. I was told that I had to remove the leaf springs in order to get to the differential housing, where the inner bearing are located. This is the same place that didn't have the manuals for sale.
Is this approach true, or do the inner and outer brearings slide out with the axle, once the wheel and caliper are removed?
BTW, what is "axle runout" and how do I check it?

Burgs · #7 (**permalink**) 03-18-2006, 08:37 PM

rblong · #8 (**permalink**) 03-18-2006, 09:36 PM

Good job Burg!

HI Cobra · #9 (**permalink**) 03-18-2006, 10:32 PM

CaliCobra- this is what makes this sight great. Seems there is always someone with the information you need - all you have to do is ask. One recommendation I would make is that you see if any of your friends have done something like this before and see if they can help you. Sometimes
it can keep you from screwing something up and makes life a lot easier.
Good luck with the project!

blykins · #10 (**permalink**) 03-19-2006, 06:19 AM

Cali, the "inner" bearing is the differential bearing. The "outer" bearing is the bearing that you see out towards the axle flange in Burg's picture. The bearing is of course the piece that's 3rd from the flange.

Your car is exactly like mine. I have Shell Valley with a 9". These cars (except for "real" 289 cars) do not have leaf springs. 98% are coilover shock cars.

If your car is 2003 or newer, then it's made exactly like mine. You can literally follow my directions in my first post....it's not a big job at all.

If you need help, email me and I'll send you my phone number. I'll walk you through it on the phone.

Our cars are built a little differently than the picture above.

The only real tools you'll need is a slide hammer (or axle puller) and a bearing press.

If you don't have either one, you can buy them both at Harbor Freight for like $125. They both are very valuable tools...and are worth the purchase.

CaliCobra · #11 (**permalink**) 03-19-2006, 08:34 AM

Hey guys, thanks for all your help. I think I have enough info to be dangerous

Burgs thanks for the great pic, and quick reply. It helps a lot.

blykins I will email you off the forum and ask for your phone # as I don't have anyone around me who has a Ford 9" Most of the cobra guys have a Superformance with IRS.

Thanks agian!

-Gio

Jerry Clayton · #12 (**permalink**) 03-19-2006, 08:50 AM

Instead of a slide hammer to pull the axle--turn the drum or rotor around backwards and just start the nuts on the studs--this will give you enuogh travel that you can slide the drum/rotor like a slide hammer to pull out the axle

I wouldn't recommend buying a press to do the bearings for a beginner--most places that will have the bearings will have the equipment to press them off and back on--still one of the most economical jobs to get done by pros

Jerry

CaliCobra · #13 (**permalink**) 03-19-2006, 08:55 AM

Just curious, if I back out the axle, will I be breaking any oil seals that would have to be replaced upon reinstallation?
Also, when reinstalling the axle, do I have to "hammer" or press it back in, if it requires force to slide it out?

Jerry Clayton · #14 (**permalink**) 03-19-2006, 09:04 AM

Well- I would assume that if you have bad bearings--either they are old and the seals will be bad also or the shortening job wasn't too good or----

Clean up the bearing pocket with some thing and the bearing will probably slide right in

Honestly, I would be concerned with WHY your bearings are bad, wheel bearings, if installed properly will go well over 100,000 miles

Jerry

blykins · #15 (**permalink**) 03-19-2006, 11:25 AM

Giovanni,

A phone call may not be necessary...this is a pretty easy job. I've found some pictures of where I installed the axles on my car that will help.

Your first couple steps will be getting the rearend off the ground, removing the tires/wheels and pulling the brakes off. If your car has drum brakes, then remove the drum and the backing plate. If it has discs, then remove the calipers and pull the rotors off.

If you have the SVO rear brake package like I do, then remove the calipers and rotors, then remove the 4 nuts holding the axle to the axle flange. The SVO kit has a backing plate sorta like a drum system. It's sandwiched in between the axle and the axle flange. You can leave the backing plate on.

I use a slide hammer to pull the axle. It doesn't take but a few licks to pull it.

The seal is pressed into the axle housing on my car. You should replace it to while you're at this point. It's easy to remove and to install, you just square the seal up in its bore and drive it in gently.

If you don't have a bearing press, just take the axles and new bearings to a shop and let them press them on.

To reinstall the axle, just slide it down the housing and you may have to use a rubber mallet or a dead blow to get it in all the way. Then just replace the nuts on the bolts and replace your brakes.

I just accidentally deleted your email message, so send me another email and I'll send you some close-up pictures of when I assembled my rearend.

Rick Parker · #16 (**permalink**) 03-19-2006, 08:24 PM

Clik on link
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/3261.PDF
Your flange will be different