Carb "Storage" over winter

lineslinger · #1 (**permalink**) 11-11-2006, 04:33 PM

Do you like to run your carbs dry for the winter, some say this drys out the seals, or do you just run "stabil" enhanced gas into the bowls and let them sit that way.

Burgs · #2 (**permalink**) 11-11-2006, 06:46 PM

Stabil for mine.

wtm442 · #3 (**permalink**) 11-11-2006, 06:48 PM

Stabil in full tank of gas. Start the car up at least once a month and let it get up to operating temp. Of course, if the streets are dry and the sun is out ... go for a ride. Winter is just an excuse to wear more clothes.

I start my snowblower up once a month in the non-snowy months. Its a 15 year old Ariens and it starts on the first pull every time.

Excaliber · #4 (**permalink**) 11-11-2006, 08:05 PM

Seems like the gas would evaporate from the carbs over the winter, Stabil or not.

wtm442 · #5 (**permalink**) 11-11-2006, 08:16 PM

The gas does not evaporate that fast in our cold climate during the winter.

Excaliber · #6 (**permalink**) 11-11-2006, 08:29 PM

Oops, forgot about the 'cold' factor...

wtm442 · #7 (**permalink**) 11-11-2006, 08:46 PM

... as Jamo would say ... BITE ME

All the way up to 67 ºF today but highs in the very low 50's for the next week BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

Wayne Maybury · #8 (**permalink**) 11-13-2006, 07:59 AM

I never start an engine once it has been put in storage. I change the oil and filter, put stabilizer in the tank, drain the carb, make sure the battery is fully charged, etc. I put the battery charger on for a hour or two a couple of times during the winter just to make sure the it stays fully charged. Even though the car is in a heated garage, I also make sure that the coolant has enough antifreeze in it to endure below freezing temps without cracking the block just in case the power goes off in the middle of January.

Wayne

1blackbb66 · #9 (**permalink**) 11-26-2006, 02:36 AM

Best way I have found is to make sure she is up to full opperating temp and has been driven awhile before puttin her to bed for the winter. Leave the engine running at idle and spray WD-40 down the carb till she dies, then spray about a 15 second blast down each bowl vent tube. This protects the heads and cylinders and keeps the carbs from drying out. I never use fuel additive, just make sure the tank is full so you don't get condensation.

Ray

427SnakeSC · #10 (**permalink**) 11-26-2006, 04:19 AM

I put fuel stabilizer in the gas tank, make sure the gas tank is full, to prevent condensation. Run engine up to operating temp. Pour a little Dexron II down carb and shut motor off. You can put about half a quart of Dexon II in the crank case before changing oil, to clean any sludge buildup and thin oil to get complete drainage. Drain oil and replace filter. Cover car. Turn motor over once a month, through winter, with condenser wire off, to avoid damage to the valve springs. I hook up a battery tender too. That's my winter storage program. Works for me!

I have been advised not to start car up during the winter as the unburnt fuel combines with the condensation in the crank to create an acid like substance (sulfuric acid) that eats away at the main bearings. By starting it up occasionally over the winter, you are contaminating that clean oil you just put in.

jarendall · #11 (**permalink**) 11-26-2006, 08:14 AM

I just put my top back on, will drive my car, even if it is cold, of course I have a heater, only problem I have is the engine takes for ever to heat up when the weather is cold

vettestr · #12 (**permalink**) 11-26-2006, 09:49 AM

The questions of what to do for the winter, if nothing else make sure coolant has corrosion inhibitor and freeze protection. Starting and let her come up to temp now and then is also as good as any for my 2 cents.
BUT >>> If a wet area protect from rust in cylinders with an oil film and protect compressed valve springs if a high lift, wild or roller cam. This is much more important if not a stock cam. If a stock cam then the high revs and wild lift specs mean low spring pressure is not a big deal.
Coolant = how old or contamination possible? Change to product with anti corrosion/rust inhibitor plus freeze protection. I add extra corrosion inhibitor... always.
Engine oil = Change oil + filter + make sure oil cooler and lines get new oil. I strongly endorse LUCAS oil additive as it sticks to all like STP but a newer technology without huge viscosity increase.
Fuel = I think a wet system as compared to draining is better if a stabilizer is added to gas but with close to empty on Gage.
Engine = I do not mind adjusting valve lash at all so I support loosening all rockers or shaft to release compressed valve springs. If not turn engine over to change ones compressed after a month or so. I also remove spark plugs and squirt 2 pumps of (Marvel Mystery Oil -top end lube) into each cylinder. Bar engine over to coat the walls well then put plugs back in. Always apply/coat plug threads with Anti-seize on alum heads.
Tires and suspension = Put car on jack stands, no flat spotted tires.
Battery = Remove and clean cable ends and put a low or trickle charger without cables hooked up, keep an eye on water level if not a sealed or gel battery.
Car cover = even in garage

Excaliber · #13 (**permalink**) 11-26-2006, 10:28 AM

"Gasohol"
Alcohol will separate from the gasoline during winter storage. This separation lowers the effective octane rating of the fuel. While most cars dont have fiberglass fuel tanks, some boats do. The alcohol reacts with the glass and causes contamination and damages the tanks. Bad stuff will be going to the carb, check those fuel filters closely! Could this also be a problem with 'fuel cells'?

Alcohol sucks up water like a sponge! Leaving the tank half full is inviting trouble, fill it up. Of course that leaves you with a full tank of 'ultra low octane' come summer time. Perhaps the timing should be backed off for that first tank of 'spring driving weather'?

The boating community is just starting to wake up and smell the coffee on this issue, which will become more pronounced as alcohol is here to stay.

vettestr · #14 (**permalink**) 11-27-2006, 09:01 AM

Hey Enie, sent you a PM

Wayne Maybury · #15 (**permalink**) 11-27-2006, 09:07 AM

Ernie

Methyl alcohol (methanol) will not stay mixed with gasoline in very cold temperatures but I this is the first time that I have ever heard anyone say that ethyl alcohol (ethanol) with separate from gas over a period of time. I will check with a friend that is in the fuel alcohol business and see under what conditions this can occur.

You are right when you say that "alcohol sucks up water". Ethyl alcohol is hygroscopic and will attract humidity from the air. The best solution to counteract this is to keep the fuel tank as full as possible while the vehicle sits in storage.

Wayne

Excaliber · #16 (**permalink**) 11-27-2006, 09:17 AM

Would it be better to drain the tank completely?

I don't ride my dirt bikes 'that much' and if there going to be stored for awhile I'll drain the gas out of the carb. Sometimes by simply shutting off the fuel (car version, pull the fuse to the fuel pump) and letting the bike run out of gas.

The REASON I do this is simple: MC carbs are really small and I've seen some 'nasty stuff' accumulate in their when they sit a long time. MC carbs are WAY sensitive to even miniscule amounts of 'nasty stuff'.

I don't pretend to have 'the' answers to this problem, now exasperated with the alcohol question!

ack fia · #17 (**permalink**) 11-27-2006, 09:19 AM

Another good thing to do when your car is "inactive" is to cycle the brakes and clutch (just sit there and pretend you are on the track). This keeps the brakes and clutch free and helps your mood.

427SnakeSC · #18 (**permalink**) 11-27-2006, 09:32 AM

Up here in the cold and snowy north, we tend to put some methyl hydrate in the fuel tanks to absorb any condensation and mix with the gas. Prevents the water settling in the bottom of the tank and screwing up the carb when it come time to spark it up

I always fill the fuel tanks on my bikes and cars with gas treated with fuel stabilizer and methyl hydrate for the winter. Never, ever had a problem in the spring.

I also do this for my boat. My mechanic tells me that the methyl hydrate increases the octane, too.

Excaliber · #19 (**permalink**) 11-27-2006, 09:42 AM

Will the fuel stabilzer also keep the alcohol from separating? I was just discussing that with a fellow who DOES store his Cobra for months at a time (one Cobra in Calif, the other in Hawaii, must be nice

). We don't know, and my 'boating' magazines failed to address that particular question.

427SnakeSC · #20 (**permalink**) 11-27-2006, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Excaliber

Will the fuel stabilzer also keep the alcohol from separating? I was just discussing that with a fellow who DOES store his Cobra for months at a time (one Cobra in Calif, the other in Hawaii, must be nice

). We don't know, and my 'boating' magazines failed to address that particular question.

I can't say for sure if the fuel stab will prevent the alcohol from separating but I would think there is a web site or phone number on the containers of fuel stab. that you could call. I had a problem with water in my fuel tanks on my boat last year. My mechanic told me to pour a gallon of methyl hydrate into each tank, and told me it would increase the octane. Boat started up and ran perfectly last summer. Up here in Toronto, the boat is stored from now until late April. Pretty much the same for cars and bikes.