Whats needed to start an engine

[blueovalfanatic]

OK, I know it takes air, fuel, spark, and timing to run, but...Say you wanted to install your new engine in the chassis, and make it to where you could start the engine. I am thinking of making a panel from plywood which would house a water temperature and oil pressure guage, and a tachometer to monitor the engine while running. The radiator and complete cooling system would be intact. Fuel pump is mechanical, with a constant source of fuel. Also, a 12v battery with a wired switch that basically connects the battery to the starter (bypassing the solenoid).

I am trying to draw up a diagram with all supporting equipment needed with the Duraspark electronic ignition. I obviously need an ignition module, but what all else would be needed? I dont want to use a solenoid, voltage regulator, etc., or anything that is not absolutely needed, just to keep it simple. I want a cart type thing that I can wheel up to the engine, and to be able to start it and let it run awhile every now and then.

So in addition to the battery, starter switch, coil, cooling system, and ignition module, what else would be necessary?

Thanks for any help,
Greg

[Excaliber]

Gotta have a solenoid for the starter. Or you could just hold the battery cable directly to the starter terminal and watch the sparks fly!

[Fox]

In my gallery you can see pictures of my homemade run-stand. Pretty bare bones but works great.

Use a fan in front of the radiator or the cooling will poor at best. I used my MSD 6AL and an Autolite regulator. I used a special MSD tach module to get the pulses right for the tach to read correct.

OBTW make sure the thermostat is in the proper direction... I had a bit of a newbie error that sent scalding water everywhere. Everyone in the garage was fine but the wife still doesn't think I have a clue as to what I am doing...

-John

[wtm442]

Define the term "every now and then".

How about an engine pre-oiler. Maybe hook up the gas to the primaries only so you can let all of the gas run out of the carb if you install a block valve in the gas line (or at least Stabil). Need to attach your headers. Need a very good fire extinguisher handy for insurance.

Tubing to oil pressure gauge (if mechanical) should be metal, NOT plastic.

The first time you start it, it should be run for about 30 minutes with the revs above 2000.

Something to recharge the battery, unless you are borrowing it from another vehicle.

Flex tubing over the headers vented outside - or open up the door and turn on a fan.

A video camera so someone can take a short movie with all the glorious sounds and post it here on CC

Six pack of you favorite beverage to be consumed AFTER the initial run to seat the rings.

[trularin]

I ran temp, oil & Tach.

Had a panel with a pushbutton start switch next to a run switch ( turn on the run switch and crank the engine to start ). Then three guages.

Wired everything on a home made harness.

It ran well and allowed me to treek a few things before the car was complete.

Good luck, I hope this helps.

[Roscoe]

[Dwight]

We made a stand out of wood, but your frame will work. Battery, jumper cables, starter, bellhousing, flywheel, dust shield, coil, gas line, gas can, start switch ( push button ), $13 fan, something to put the fire out, and your ready.

Dwight

[blueovalfanatic]

Thanks for the pics. Thats pretty much what id like to do. I am just trying to figure out what I would need to just start it. I dug a wiring book out earlier tonight and was brainstorming for awhile. I obviously have to have the ignition module for the electronic ignition, but if the engine was ran just off a couple batteries, it seems that would eliminate the need for the alternator, voltage regulator, ignition switch, etc..

"Once in awhile" would be defined by first off, breaking the cam in. Then maybe once every few weeks or so for a few minutes here and there. I was wondering mainly about the electronic ignition, but it seems all I would need is to wire up the ignition module to the coil and distributor, a starter, battery- with the in-line type push button between the battery and starter.

Again, it would run only off the battery of course, but a decent battery should provide ample running time for all I want it to do. The cooling system would be intact. The mechanical fuel pump would draw right from a gas can.

The guages would be mechanical also. I dont like them much for the finished car, but should be ample for monitoring the engine while its running, and being mechanical, would keep it simple. The cheap guages are surely not extremely accurate, but would be used as much as just a reference point as anything.

Wouldnt this work? Am I missing anything that you can see?

Greg

[Naumoff]

you don't need the alternator. Put a solenoid switch in. It is cheap and you don't have to get a big switch for the large amp draw. One battery is fine. ignition doesn't draw much to run the engine. I also bought a $8 ignition switch from the auto parts store. Makes it easy to wire up and a set of cheap mechanical gauges. I did wire my alt. to pretest my wiring for the charging system but you don't have to.

[flwolfman]

I used Mustang Steve's web site. He has a nice drawing under tech that shows how to wire up the module and ignition. It was very handy. Search under Mustang Steve's. It is easy to find. Jim

[jarendall]

I installed all my mechanical equipment, installed the complete dash and one seat and drove the rolling chasis around the block, this serves several useful purposes, it gives you plenty time to check out everything, brakes, steering, supension, transmission and drive chain, I made several changes during this time, changes that would be hard to make once the body is attached, like changing from a cable clutch to a hydralic master/slave setup and changing from stock supension to a coilover type, these type changes are hard to make once you have a painted body on

[blueovalfanatic]

Thanks for the replies. I am just starting to purchase engine parts and have a little while before it even goes to the machine shop, but in the meantime, I can get the panel constructed and ready to use. Good idea on the solenoid too, Naumoff. It would be a few more wires, but a little cheaper too.

Jarendall- I am not familiar with how Street Beasts are assembled, but that would seemingly be difficult to do with a Shell Valley. The dash is integral with the body, and the body would have to be pretty much mounted on the frame to run all the wires. That would be nice if I could, as I would definately drive it around in the "go cart" stage for awhile. These cars CANNOT be fun to work on with the body and hood on.

As for batteries, one should be sufficient, but I have a couple Bosch batteries on hand that could be used as a back-up. In my 76 F100, squirrels ate a bunch of wires under the hood that created an electrical problem to where the alternator would not charge the battery- in fact, it was the 390 that I am going to build for the Cobra. Luckily, I worked close to home. I would drive it to work, disconnect the battery, connect it before leaving work, and after I got home, i'd again hook up the battery charger. It was like a battery powered truck with a gasoline engine in it. LOL It would run for quite some time unless I had to use the headlights, and it had the same Duraspark disty in it too, so I am sure it would run for plenty long enough.

Thanks again for your help and suggestions. They are all appreciated!
Greg

[jarendall]

yea, my floor pan and dash mounted separate from the body, I had my car completely wired and all mechanical hookups made before final installation of the body, I mounted the body made all cuts and fittings and then removed it and sent it to the paint shop for finishing, when I mounted it the second time is was finished, all I had to do then was the interior, my body is painted inside and out and underneath

[cobra101]

If you are using a flat tappet cam # 1 you need to fire the engine with Delo 400 oil and comp cams cam breakin lube or suitable substitute. Run the motor for a minimum of 20 minutes from initial start up at 2500 RPM . That means you have best pay attention to the specs you have set your carb., timing, etc. at . Also as your engine is fresh and tight make sure you have adiquit cooling including a very large fan to keep it cool while you break in the cam.