In oil pan heater

Michael C Henry · #1 (**permalink**) 01-19-2007, 09:18 PM

I installed a Steff's 110V electric oil heater when I put the engine together awhile back. I had a bung welded into my cast alluminum Cobra oilpan. I have yet to actually plug it in. It was incase of a need for a really cold startup. Any experience of how long and how warm the oil will get in that time? Do I have to watch out for over heating?

double ugly · #2 (**permalink**) 01-19-2007, 10:29 PM

We used to have an oil heater for our formula cars when we ran in the upper midwest. (30 to 40 degrees) Given the option with a cobra when it's that cold I'd keep it in the garage. I would plug it in and check the oil pan with your hand. If it feels fairly warm not hot unplug the heater. Keep a chart with the ambient temp and length of time it took to get the temp up. Didn't answer your question, I know.

John

Ron61 · #3 (**permalink**) 01-20-2007, 06:36 AM

Go ahead and laugh but, since we don't have many days here that are so cold you need to preheat the oil, I have an old electric blanket that I wrap around the oil pan and up the sides of the motor. Then I just plug it in. I have only used it three times when it was extra cold and I wanted to start the car but it did a fair job, and when it stops working I will pull the heating elements out of it and use it as a mat or floor cover to lay on. I also have one of the outside of the pan heaters that you just stick on the bottom of the pan. I don't glue mine on as I so seldom use it but put it on with a small piece of tape on each corner and that peels right off when I am done.

Edit: Just so you understand, I don't drive my car when it is that cold. But after it sets for a fewweeks I like to start it and run it until the temperatures are up to normal. Anything below 70 degrees is to cold to drive in.

Ron

woody2 · #4 (**permalink**) 01-20-2007, 06:50 AM

If it gets that cold just plug the heater in for 1/2 hour before starting. Are
you really going for a drive or just runing the motor?
Good Luck

trularin · #5 (**permalink**) 01-20-2007, 07:06 AM

Maybe in a car that had to run and it was like -20 or something.

I can not imagine going out in my car in weather where I would preheat my oil to 40 or 50 degrees. One defeats the other.

It is so cold you need to preheat the oil and you want to go out and drive an open cockpit car???

My hats off to you.

Bob In Ct · #6 (**permalink**) 01-20-2007, 07:46 AM

I've leave a 60 watt light bulb inside an aluminum reflector (home depot) going all winter. I have it right under the oil pan. Any advantage I can give to an engine that does not run on a daily basis is worth it to me.

When the ambient temperatures are below 65 degrees or so I also block the oil cooler with a piece of plexi (you can't even see it - thanks Art G.). If I don't, the oil never gets above 150. Even with the cooler blocked I usually run around 180. During really cold rides (anything under 50) I block the bottom third of the radiator so as to return the coolant at a little bit higher temperature.

I always wonder how many distributor gear problems are caused by owners running heavy, cold oil through all that plumbing and the oil cooler. How much of that oil do you think just goes out the pressure relief valve?

Bob

Jerry Clayton · #7 (**permalink**) 01-20-2007, 08:04 AM

Funny that some think its too cold to drive if its not 75 or warmer--Not funny is how some treat their engines even when its that warm--the oil should be above 200f and I prefer mine to be above 212 to boil out any condensation .
If your garage is cold enough that you feel you should warm up your engine, consider this--all you are doing is warming the engine enough that when cooling off again the temp will go thru the dew point and you will get condensation in the oil-- the valve covers will actually get milky on the inner surface from the water and it will drain into the pan.
If you aren't going to drive your car, don't molest the engine---if its too cold for you to drive, leave it cold

Of course I think that all these cars with high volume/ pressure pumps, remote filters and a big oil cooler are courting disaster as most aren't ever operated in a performance range where they are needed

Jerry

Ron61 · #8 (**permalink**) 01-20-2007, 08:33 AM

Jerry,

If you are using my reference as anything below 70 degrees as being to cold to drive in that was said as a tongue in cheek joke. I won't drive it when it is in the 30s and the wind is blowing. I have ran it in my car port and warmed all the temps up and have pulled valve covers and changed oil and I have yet to find any of the condensation you mentioned. The papers that came from my engine builder said to not run it above 2,000 RPM any time until the oil and water temps were up operating range. I have had it since 1996 and never had a problem.

Ron

imagine2frolic · #9 (**permalink**) 01-20-2007, 09:41 AM

Seems like in the 50's & 60's my parents had an electric dipstick that plugged into the wall?

Jerry Clayton · #10 (**permalink**) 01-20-2007, 10:28 AM

Ron

I wasn't referencing the 70 because of you, just sort of a line in the sand--

You won't find the condensation in the valve covers when you take them off while they re warm. It will form when the temp goes down thru the dew point-- People with heated garages can actually cause there cars doors to rust as the moisture will form when the cars body temp goes thru dew point--double!!!
The cold car causes condensation of the moisture in the air in the garage, and then when leaving the garage the cooler putdoor temps will condense moisture in the body panels when the skin cools thru dew point once again--just like having a still

I'm not pointing any fingers at anyone---but stand by my point that warming the engine every so often isn't doing any good except for charging the battery--If the quality of your choice of oil won't keep the parts from rusting you have made a poor choice in oil!!!!!

If you need to exercise your vehicle, evercise the whole car---clutch, brakes, u-joints, steering,etc--if you can't do that , let it sit as you probably are doing more harm than good

Jerry

Michael C Henry · #11 (**permalink**) 01-20-2007, 11:07 AM

What I was asking about is how hot does a Steff's oil heater get? If I plug it in and forgot about it would it scorch the oil? Is it thermostatically controlled? Temps here were a little below freezing last week. My garage isn't heated unless I'm working out there and that is with two space heaters. When I was mounting the new oil catch tank and converting to a PCV system, and remounting the carburetors.
I have the Melling high volume oil pump with the shim added. Cold starts are a delicate thing . No choke. Can't zing the throttle with cold oil or the distributor drive gear pin will shear. I haven't used the heater yet . I'm looking for some experience for guidence.

Jerry Clayton · #12 (**permalink**) 01-20-2007, 11:25 AM

Mike

If you are worried about forgeting it, use a timer and set for 30 minutes and check oil temp by pulling the dipstick--If you have a oil cooler mounted in the nose, put a small heater/fan in front of it like one out of a bathroom overhead deal--nutone has a unit for about 75 dollars at home depot that has a heater/fan unit that you can remove with one screw--evan has a normal 110 plug on it-
Even with preheating the oil in a wet sump you still have to pump thru the remote filters and cooler/lines before the warm thinner oil gets to the cold block/crankshaft.
For winter storage/starting/driving maybe try a 0-30 wt oil?????

Jerry