I think I have a BIG problem

[767Jockey]

I disassembled the whole front suspension on my Contemporary. I glass beaded everything, powder coated, and bought all new polyurethane bushings, Grade 8 hardware, etc. Now I'm hosed. I went to mount the upper A arm to the car, and one of the nuts that are permanently mounted inside the frame to accept the A arm mounting bolt broke loose inside the frame rail. The nut is stuck on the end of the bolt. I can't get the bolt out of it because it's just spinning inside the frame. Even once I do, all I'll have is a hole in the frame with no nut behind it. I'm so darned dejected right now, I can't believe this has happened. I have no idea what to do. I have no way of getting inside the frame to mount a new nut back there, as this part of the frame is completely inaccessable as far as getting to the inside. I can't use some sort of rivet nut because this is the main mounting point for the upper A arm and it has to be REALLY strong - the whole front suspension counts on this for strength. What in the world do I do now?

[Power Surge]

Is there any place on the frame in the general area that you can use a holesaw to make an access hole? Then stick a wrench through it to grab the nut.

[Cracker]

First of all - don't fret or feel dejected, this IS part of Cobra ownership. This is yet another opportunity to improve on something that wasn't engineered correctly to begin with - I spent hundreds of hours re-engineering my Contemporary.

I can't recall exactly how my front set-up was but it sounds different than yours. What year is your car and what kind of suspension is up front? I bet a little bit of ingenuity would solve the problem with little drama. Hang in there, step back and evaluate the options. Recreating what is original to the car's set-up is most likely not required. Another option is to call George Petrus at Accurate Machine who has a fair amount of experience with Contemporaries (310-370-4075).

[1985 CCX]

Doug,

Never fear my friend! I have posted this question to the CCX Owners Group. No doubt someone will be able to help. In the past I have had similar issues which I was able to overcome easily with some thought.

Here is my take on it:
1) Roto-Zip the spinning bolt off.
2) Clear the hole.
3) See if you can drill a hole at the back of the bracket for use with longer grade 8 bolt.
4) If so, you may need to sleeve the bolt so it will not crush the tube used for support.
5) I will look over thew situation on my car tonight when I get home. As with any of these cars where there is a will there is a way!
6) Don't get upset! It will all work out fine..........

Does not sound like a major problem so remember to pace yourself. I will often let an issue sit for a few days and think about how to resolve before moving forward. Remember, the Contemporary Classic Owners Group is a great resource!

I'll call you tonight on the ride home.
Jeff

[Ron61]

As Sal said above, if you can get to the side of the frame the nut was welded to, I am guessing it was welded, and cut a small access hole, I would try to do it where the nut was welded. Then make the hole just big enough to get the nut out through it. Then take a piece of plate that is strong and tack the nut to it and get it lined up so your bolt will still go into the nut. Once you have this all straight, weld the plate to the frame with the nut now welded to the plate on the inside. I am sure there are simpler ways to do this and depending on which side of the frame your nut was fastened will play into it. Good Luck.

Ron

[JWheaton]

Your car is totaled!

I will be willing to purchase it from you for the totaled value.



I bet by the time the weekend rolls around you will have solved this problem and you will be onto the next problem. I have no solutions for you only words of encouragement. I know someone (me) who knows nothing about cars, but has often felt that my car has been totaled. You are way ahead of the game. Hell, at least you knew what the bolt is for. There is a solution and you will figure this out.

These cars are great. Have fun.

[Lowell W]

Your car is totaled!

I will be willing to purchase it from you for the totaled value.

Dang...Beat me to it!

Seriously, you're not really hosed...just challenged...

I agree with Sal and Ron, with one addition: See whether you can get some plastic pipe plugs or hole plugs of some kind (try MSCDirect, for starters) or the plugs that go in the empty holes on an electrical service panel, and make the hole to fit the plug. That way, when you're done, you can plug the hole neatly and use it to access the nut if the need arises again.

As Jeff said, although sometimes things look pretty bleak right after the "OH $HIT", when you step back and think a little, the solution is pretty simple.

Good luck,

Lowell

[Jerry Clayton]

OK,, follow very carefully----

Remove the a-arm from the area---cut off the bolt so the nut can be moved outta the way--
Drill a 1/4 in hole thru the other side of the frame
Now mount a 1 1/2 or 2 inch hole saw and using the 1/4 in hole as the guide for the holesaw cut out a bigger hole(on the frame where the nut was welded)
Take a plate of steel and drill/holesaw and cut a circle of steel that matches the hole you sawed in the frame--drill the center out the size of the bolt you need to use
Weld a flanged nut on the circle

Weld the circle into the ho,e in the frame

Grind down the welds, paint, no evidence remains--

Now if you need this in 767 language, send me a pm and I'll give you my phone number

Jerry

[767Jockey]

Ok, I just dropped the tools when this happened and walked away to take a breath. That's the beauty of not being under a deadline - you can do things like that when $hit happens and walk away. Now that I've thought about it, I believe the best way to proceed is to cut a hole about 1" to 1 1/4" and attack the problem from the rear (insert wise ass joke here ).

The frame upright in question is about a 3" x 3" square tubing. I can't get to the rear of it because of all the bonded in fiberglass inner fender panels, but I can get to the side of it easily, which should be just as good. The only question I have now is, what do I use to cut a hole?

I'm fine with assembling, disassembling, cleaning, etc. I'm not much for any fabricating, so I have no metalworking tools or experience. What tool do I use to cut a 1" hole in metal chassis tubing, what is it called, and where do I buy one? I have tons of woodworking hole saws, but I doubt one of them would make a dent in this tubing before the teeth wore off.

Thanks for all the help, guys - one of these years I may actually drive this thing. I had a friend drop by today in his beautiful SPF, all shined up and growling like the beast that it is. I looked at my dirty pitiful excuse of a car up on jack stands with it's guts ripped out, and saw the opportunity I had to try to make this thing even half as nice as his, and I felt re-energized. Thanks for the visit, Tony, and thanks to all of you for the help and encouragement. I've been going great guns non stop on this thing all alone for months, and I guess I just hit the wall today. Probably wont be the last time that happens, either.

[Three Peaks]

Unless your holesaws are specifically for woodworking, you should be able to use them on your metal frame. Just use a good cutting oil like Rapid tap or the rapid tap "butter" and it will be fine.

[MaSnaka]

Most hole saws are for metal not wood anyway. Notice how they usually burn their way through a nice piece of lumber? Any local hardware store carries hole saws...Home Depot to mention one of the many stores. Use oil or even wd40 works too. I would use what I got, don't go buy someting new. Hole saws are expendeble and can be replaced when all used up. Remember to protect your eyes especially if under the frame, also metal burrs are hot and oil is messy. Good luck. John

[Fastz06]

Doug,you want bimetal hole saws. You are right, wood holesaws wont last a nanosecond. If you cant get them at HD pr Lowes, Ive gotten them at WW Graingers
Ray

[767Jockey]

Guys-
I found a solution so obvious it's amazing I didn't see it sooner. By dropping the lower A arm mount out of the bottom of the chassis upright that the nut in question is in, the entire bottom of the upright is open. The nut is about 10" up from the bottom. By purchasing or making a long reach wrench, I can simply reach up and hold the nut while I tighten it. How I didn't see this earlier I'll never know.

[Lowell W]

See...You're not hosed! Now, isn't it fun working on this car?

Lowell

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by Lowell W

See...You're not hosed! Now, isn't it fun working on this car?

Lowell

Uh......usually!

[767Jockey]

Hmmmmm, upon further review, I think I still have to drill the hole. The shims for aligning the front end go behind the A arm mount that this bolt holds on. If I don't leave access to the nut from behind, there will be no way to align the car without dropping the whole bottom half of the front suspension. Guess I'm back to the drilled hole idea, which in and of itself should be no big deal. I think I'm going to drill in directly from the rear of the upright (engine side). I'll just drill through the fiberglass inner fenderwell, and all I'll see is a (hopefully) neat 1" hole.

[CHANMADD]

Iwould try and get a washer under the nut

[Three Peaks]

Is this the upper or lower control arm mount? If it is the upper, have you considered installing adjustable control arms so you don't have to go through this again in the future- besides the ease of adjustment you'll gain?

[767Jockey]

3P,
I don't know of any adjustable A arms for the Jaguar setup my car has.

[ccx1984]

Doug my upper a arm on the drivers side rear stripped when i unbolted it, this is just a 5/16 NC tapped hole in the 1/8" thick tubing no nut on the inside. i plan on drilling it out to 1/2" and inserting a peice of 1/2" round 3/8" long and welding it solid and redrilling and tapping it to 5/16NC, should be stronger than orginal. i expect this to happen a few more times before completion. brought my new side pipes and hedders to jet hot about 75 miles from here, their coating them with jet hot sterling silver cost $295 should be ready 4/6. PS what happend to the measurements for the calipers.