Blue Point riv nut tool?

[767Jockey]

One of you guys wrote me about a tool made by Blue Point or Snap On to insert a riv nut type device into my frame where the old one for my upper suspension mounting point broke off. I can't find the thread or message. Can whoever it was reply again? Thanks.

[bmwdb10]

Doug,

I have one of those Riv-nut tools. Actually this one is made by Marson. But typically they are only for setting an aluminum nut, great for door mirrors and the likes. The tool works the same as a pop rivet tool. The mandrel is threaded and that handle is sqeezed to colapse the collar of the nut around the panel it is to be attached to. I really don't think this is something you want to be hanging suspension from.

Dave
CCX4007

[767Jockey]

HI, Dave-
That's what I thought too. I wish I could remember who sent this info to me, because he said the tool and the nuts he mentioned were the exact ones used by Contemporary to set the nuts in the frame at the factory. I was finally able to make time today and commandeer a helper to get the old nut out. It's definitely a riv nut type nut. I originally assumed it was a nut welded to the inside of the frame but it's not. It's a round unit inserted through a hole slightly larger than the bolt it accepts, and then somehow the nut type unit is squeezed making a ridge behind the inside surface of the frame and expanding the unit to hold it in place. The nut used is definitely steel, not aluminum. His information was very specific as to the type and model number of the tool and the nuts themselves, that's why I'm hoping he'll reply again. I'm wondering now if it was sent to me through an email from the CCX owners group, rather than through CC. I'll try a mass email as well. Thanks, Dave.
Doug

Anyone else out there have a lead on the unit and nuts I'm talking about?

[bmwdb10]

Hey Doug,

What you are describing sounds like a PEM-NUT. It has a serated collar that is pressed into an existing hole. They can be pulled in using a couple of washers and a bolt similar to the way the riv-nut tool works. They should be available in most any size. I use them on some of the equipment I build at work, but only in #8 and #10's. I'll see what I can find for you. Maybe hit up google! Again, the issue is getting at it from the inside. I had my wheels off a couple of days ago, but lucky for me, my suspension is all intact and very tough to see any easy way in there.

Dave

[55312]

Go here - http://www.mcmaster.com/

Type in Pem Nut.

This is a great outfit in NJ.

Tim

[767Jockey]

Thanks, guys, but after looking at the pem nut on McMaster, it's definitely not what's there now. This thing looks like it starts as a smooth barrel with the inside drilled and threaded. It's inserted in the hole from the front, and sits flush with the front of the surface it's being inserted into. Somehow, a tool is used to compress the barrel so that a ridge builds up on the reverse side of the surface it's been inserted into, which keeps it from pulling through the surface when it's tightened up or subjected to load. I presume the small area where the barrel is actually passed through the metal surface it's inserted into swells against the wall of the hole it's mounted through to hold it in place. I checked the nut with a magnet and it's definitely steel. Anyone have any ideas here? I know this description is probably confusing, but I can't think of a clearer way to describe it.

[Burgs]

Nutsert?

http://www.aboveboardelectronics.com...nd/nutsert.htm

[STEVE POTTS]

The riv-nut was originally called a plus-nut and was invented by BFGoodrich many years ago for the aerospace industry. Once their patent ran out other companies copied the design. Hence, there are many other names used for the same part today, such as riv-nut. It is a very good fastening system for blind applications. It consists of a threaded hollow barrel that is pulled it like a rivet, the blind end mushrooms out into 4 prongs like a cloverleaf. The hollow barrel is tapped for inserting a bolt. Take a look here... http://www.perlanesales.com/plusnut_.php

and here... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRAND...RCHQ3aUSQ3a101

[Rick Parker]

Regardless of what you call it or who makes it, I dont think it was engineered for the tensile stress that would be put on it by the loading of any suspension member??????

[STEVE POTTS]

I don't like them for connecting suspension parts either. However, they do carry a lot of load...the literature lists a 3/8-16 riv-nut at 6100 pounds in tension...this would be an ultimate value.

[767Jockey]

All I know is this type of connector is what's been on the car since day one. I was able to drill an access hole behind this particular nut, so I could easily use a normal shoulder nut on it. This just makes it a hassle when aligning the front suspension as I have to remember to tell the guy doing it that this particular bold has to be accessed through the back of the mount. I'm sort of unsure which way to go now, to use a shoulder nut, or one of these steel riv-nut type devices. What a pain in the you know what this has turned out to be.

[c6ae]

Mcmaster-carr has several types of rivet set nuts available
example's are
3/8-16 # 98560A591

or 3/8-16#95105A159
Pay particular attention to the material thickness range.

There are available nuts with welded tabs to assist instalation in blind holes and to prevent turning (I just make these as needed, but I have seen them in OEM instalations).

and also "weld nuts" and "press in captive nuts"
search Mcmaster

I have drilled and tapped pieces of plate or flat bar to slip in behind removed ruined factory weld nuts in mustang frames -around the steering box in particular. They can only rotate 1/4 turn before they strike the edge of the box and stop.