1965 Shelby GT350R Questions

acinider · #1 (**permalink**) 05-22-2007, 08:29 PM

Hey Everyone, I have a 66 mustang fastback that I'm slowly building into an exact 65 Shelby gt350 r model clone and I had a few questions.

For anyone that owns an exact clone(or original

) of an r model, are there any longevity issues? I don't mind changing something minor if it causes problems or is prone to quick failure with street use.

For those who built an r model clone, is there anything you wish you did differently during the build? Things that cause ALOT of maintenance or just really bug the hell out of you now that its done.

Hows an r model to drive on the street. I'm sure its just about the greatest thing ever, but does it over heat or get temperamental with traffic or hot weather? I understand its gonna be a radical engine and will run a bit rough, I'm just talking any extreme problems.

And finally, anyone know any good books/sites for restoring a 65 gt350 race and street models?

Thanks
Brent

stallion112 · #2 (**permalink**) 05-22-2007, 10:04 PM

Save yourself a lot of time and trouble. Go to the Shelby American Automobile Club website at www.saac.com. Click on the link for e-mail addresses and then find the appropriate Registrar. These guys and the club members know more about Shelby automobiles than you could ever imagine. Their annual convention is coming up the first weekend in July. If you love Shelby's as much as it sounds like you do, you'll be in heaven at one of their conventions. You'll be able to view REAL GT350 R Models and talk to their owners as well.

jay bentley · #3 (**permalink**) 05-23-2007, 12:33 PM

I owned 5R213 for about 7 years or so. In my opinion they are no fun on the street. With the interior lacking carpets, headliner etc. it's like riding in a beer can. The noise and vibration with a race engine and no mufflers and side exhaust is not exactly pleasant on the street.

Don't get me wrong, I love R-Models!! I just feel they are a lot more fun on the track.

Jay

A-Snake · #4 (**permalink**) 05-23-2007, 01:14 PM

I would concur with Jay.

An attempt to duplicate an R model would be very expensive. In the end you would still have a 'restorod' that would not be enjoyable to drive on the street.
If you have a decent fastback to start with, you would be MUCH further ahead to restore the car original. The next option is to modify it to make it more enjoyably for the road by adding disk brakes and/or performance options etc.
When you decide to part with it, you will also have a much better chance of recouping more of your investment.

A-Snake · #5 (**permalink**) 05-23-2007, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jay bentley

The noise and vibration with a race engine and no mufflers and side exhaust is not exactly pleasant on the street.

Jay

Uh...sort of like 3318 with Webers?

jay bentley · #6 (**permalink**) 05-23-2007, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A-Snake

Uh...sort of like 3318 with Webers?

Yup, except there is no roof to keep the sound rattling around inside

bmwdb10 · #7 (**permalink**) 05-23-2007, 02:54 PM

Hey Brent,

It took me 25 years to build my near dead on example or an R-Model. I agree that as fun and fast as they are to drive on the street, when done it is suited far better for the race track. Did real well with it there and had a great time. But what a bear to drive to the grocery store. If you do nothing else, leave the carpet in the car and if you use the plexi rear window, be sure to urethane it into place. It leaks terribly if simply held in with rivet tabs.

If you are interested, I still have a set of new door window frames with all the correct hardware. strapping and lexan for the R-model. Something even the best replicas don't often have. Email me if you might be interested or if you have any questions.

You can see pics of mine in my gallery...

scales · #8 (**permalink**) 05-23-2007, 04:21 PM

Dave,
What did you do at the opening of the back window to keep it from flopping around?
Marty.

bmwdb10 · #9 (**permalink**) 05-23-2007, 07:51 PM

Marty,

The rear window should come with the aluminum frame that screws to the pinch weld on the body. The window is slightly oversized to the body so it must be sanded or ground to fit. I simply used a block with 80 grit paper until it fit snuggly over the frame and even to the body surface. It was held into place with 4 aluminum tabs riveted to the body with auto body attachment tape on the bottom of the tab. The rivets were easy to drill out for occasional cleaning of the plexi. Boy... memories!

scales · #10 (**permalink**) 05-23-2007, 09:03 PM

What about up front where the window tunnel slips into the interior? Is there any kind of support?
I know what you mean by memories, I'm making plenty my self. Glad it's a plastic window!
Thanks,
Marty.

bmwdb10 · #11 (**permalink**) 05-24-2007, 06:24 AM

Marty,

Yes, there is a support bkt that screws to the middle of the rear roof header. It hangs down and has a slot that the leading edge of the plexi slides into. It provides ample support. Once the window is in place and the tabs riveted it is surprisingly ridgid.

Feel free to email me if I can help!

BMWDB10@YAHOO.COM

scales · #12 (**permalink**) 05-24-2007, 11:45 AM

Dave,
I will certainly drop you a line if I run into any more mystery's ........and there were plenty of them. There's nothing like building a car with no instructions.

You've tied it all together for me,Thanks.
Marty.

bmwdb10 · #13 (**permalink**) 05-24-2007, 01:10 PM

Marty,

Glad to help. I have learned tons about the R-Models through the years and would be happy to talk shop and give any pointers that might help.

Anytime!

gsharapa · #14 (**permalink**) 05-28-2007, 04:18 PM

How about some pics of your R Models?

scales · #15 (**permalink**) 05-29-2007, 01:02 AM

I have a few in "Juggernaut's" gallery. I did not set out to make an exact clone, just something streetable. The interior should be completed this week. Then I'll ask Randy to update the gallery.

Dave.....While on the subject.
How is the rear fiberglass shelf fixed to the interior, and does the shoulder harness attach to the rollbar or loop over the rollbar and mount to the floor?
Thanks,
Marty.

scales · #16 (**permalink**) 05-29-2007, 01:15 AM

Gary,
My compliment's to your Mustang. Very nice!

Marty.

scales · #17 (**permalink**) 05-29-2007, 03:29 AM

Brent,

After thinking it over, now that my car is about done.
The one thing I wouldn't install again are the Over-Rider traction bars. Not worth the trouble with all the fitting,cutting and welding that's involved. Go with the under-riders.

Marty.

bmwdb10 · #18 (**permalink**) 05-29-2007, 06:50 AM

Hey Marty,

I used a street car shelf. Attached with most of the stock trimm hardware and held in firmly with the spare. I does take some trimming and fitting. the shoulder belts were attached to the roll bar cross bar.

acinider · #19 (**permalink**) 05-29-2007, 07:22 AM

Hey everyone, thanks for all the information.

Dave, your car looks great!

Thanks
Brent

scales · #20 (**permalink**) 05-29-2007, 02:04 PM

I found ..
shelbyforums.com and nvaac.com helpful.