Jag Differential

Cobra #3170 · #1 (**permalink**) 05-28-2007, 04:04 PM

Has anybody had experience in servicing the stub axle bearings and seal on a Jag differential? It looks like they use a crush sleeve and then use the nut to tighten the whole assembly until proper bearing preload is obtained. I need to have both stub axles shortened by about .150" to accommodate a Detroit Soft Lock carrier. I partially disassembled one stub shaft but the outer roller bearing seems to be held in place by a metal sleeve that is partially collapsed. Do I try and grab the bearing with a puller to remove it or grind the crush sleeve to get it off? I want to replace the seal, O ring, lock tab and the U-Joint drive bolts while it is apart, it seems that all those items are available but I am not sure what the set up process is. Thanks for any help.

RallySnake · #2 (**permalink**) 05-29-2007, 02:59 AM

3170

I was going to rebuild my Jag rearend a few years ago. But, it takes too many special tools. I had Kurt Hamilton do it. He's in Van Nuys, California. Where are you?

Paul

Cobra #3170 · #3 (**permalink**) 05-29-2007, 05:32 AM

I am in the Fresno area, do you have a number for him, perhaps he could give me some guidance. The Jag is a lot different than the original Salisbury differential in how they preload the carrier bearings and the number of splines on the stub shafts. The special tools are probably for removing the bearings from the carrier and the stub shafts. I need to get them off so that I can either have them shortened by diamond sawing them or machining them. The car is spinning the inside tire when exiting corners, that is why I am trying to install the Soft Lock Diff. I have tried both a Viper Torsion and a Salisbury clutch type and both spin the lightly loaded inside tire.
Thanks for responding!

Steve R · #4 (**permalink**) 06-01-2007, 07:33 PM

I believe you have to destroy the outer bearing to get it off.... Remove the roller cage and rollers, clamp on a bearing removal tool and press the stub out of the inner race. The crush sleeve is a throw away item, one time use only. Get a Jag manual and study the procedure to crush the new sleeve when re assembling it if you are like me and want to do your own work.
Steve

Cobra #3170 · #5 (**permalink**) 06-01-2007, 09:51 PM

Thanks for the reply, I managed to get two new crush sleeves, there are only 15 left in the country according to the Jag dealer. I got four new bearings and two new seals and now need to get the old outer bearings off. They really don't have much area to grip with a bearing removal tool but I'll give it a try. Looks like you install the outer bearing in the housing, press in in the seal and then press in the stub shaft. I assume you then install the sleeve, inner bearing, lock tab and nut and then torque to some specification that crushes the sleeve and gives you proper preload. Then you bend the tabs to hold the nut in place. I'll see if the jag deaker will let me peak at his manual to find the proper torque.

767Jockey · #6 (**permalink**) 06-01-2007, 10:04 PM

You have a PM

so427 · #7 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 08:29 PM

concours west in california jag specialist

Tom Wells · #8 (**permalink**) 06-14-2007, 05:50 AM

CWI is here: http://www.cwiinc.com/index.html

Mike can help!

RallySnake · #9 (**permalink**) 06-14-2007, 06:49 PM

You can reach Kurt Hamlton at 818-943-2323. He has tons of parts (literally).

Paul

barabar · #10 (**permalink**) 06-14-2007, 07:50 PM

That is the reason I went with a 9" rear end.
About 30 min to remove it, about 1 hr to change ring and pinion, little paint on the ring gear, check preload and back lash. Put it back in and your ready to roll. Parts are cheap and tools are easy to get.
Jag & BMW rear ends, will break the bank and there is one guy who lives in Pango Pango who fabricates one special tool per year.
Good Luck

chopper · #11 (**permalink**) 06-17-2007, 09:37 PM

With all due respect, you shouldn't have to destroy the outer bearing to get it off the spindle. It should come off with a bearing puller or a press. The crush sleeves are, as has been stated, throw-away. However, you might want to replace the bearing with a new one once it's off anyway, just because it's such a PITA to remove.

When I did this a few years ago, I found the bearings and crush sleeves at a shop in northern Phoenix, Delta Motorsports. 602-265-8026.

Once assembled, you torque the assembly to about 5 inch-pounds of torque at the shaft. I used a spring scale hooked to one of the flange bolt holes. The manual I used said not to overtorque the adjustment, as it will then over-crush the sleeve and lead to an incorrect adjustment.

This is a link to the thread that was ongoing when I went through the process:

Chopper

Hope this helps.