JB weld-yes or no

[dlampe]

This stuff makes some pretty amazing claims. Does anyone have any experience with it? When doesn't it work? I have -12 180degree fitting and the aluminum tube has rubbed against the motor mount and it is a little thin in a spot about half the size of a dime. It is not all the way through yet so I was wondering if this stuff would repair this piece? This is a suction line on my dry sump system.

I'll probably get a new fitting on Monday but I hate to through this one away.

[clayfoushee]

Yep, it would most likely keep it from wearing through. It is pretty amazing stuff.

[Traveller]

I have used it for years to fix leaks in aluminum boats. I think in your situation I'd just replace the tube since it hasn't failed.

[dlampe]

The tube is part of a $40 AN fitting. I would like to save it if possible.

[Traveller]

Give it a shot. It won't hurt anything.

[Excaliber]

Thats a perfect application for JB Weld, it will work fine. Rough up the surface for a good bond, make the surface super clean and it will be a permanent repair in my opinion. I've used JB for years in various ways. Each application is different and to varied to list them all. One of the main reasons it may fail is getting it to bond to a given surface, MUST be clean and dry. I've even used it on alloy gas tanks seams that were cracked and previously leaking, works great, WON'T bond if there's even a hint of any liquid leaking into the repair before it sets. Give it a good 24 hours to cure. I like the 'Quick Cure' kind myself, which set's up in about 4 or 5 minutes, but still needs 24 hours to totally cure. In some applications it's better to use the JB that sets up in an hour or so, depends on how much time you need to 'work with it'. For the fitting, I'd use the 'Quick Cure' style, so it won't 'run' or 'drip' before it sets and will only take seconds to apply.

[CobraMike]

Hello,

You have a dry sump motor and your going to JB Weld it over a $40 part? I'm not sure I can say, that would be my choice. Replace the part, and fix the rubbing so it's not an issue in the future.

Kind Regards,
Mike Randolph

[clayfoushee]

One of the things that always amazes me about this culture is how often the simple fix is ignored, and something complicated and unnecessary is the chosen course. People are constantly choosing quintuple bypasses, when an aspirin is all that may be necessary.

If it ain't [really] broke, don't fix it.

[CobraMike]

Hello,

I live in Iowa, and JB weld is quite popular when you have a crop to harvest, you're farming 5 miles from home and there isn't time to fix it right. But when you're talking about a DRY SUMP (a $2000+ option) motor, that you dont have to drive and when you do you're likely going to be away from home, and we're talking about a 40 dollar part....ah it's a no brainer.. replace it.

Really, who cares if it would work or not, are you really going to fix your classic car to farm tractor standards?

Cheers,
Mike

[Excaliber]

IF the pipe had rubbed through and there was a HOLE there, I would replace it. But there is no hole, there is a rub mark, big difference in my opinion.

[Ron61]

I have used JB Weld for years with great success. If the pipe is just rubbing, do as Ernie said. Clean it, fix it so it doesn't rub, and then put a light coat of JB Weld over the spot. This stuff sets up like steel.

Ron

[Clois Harlan]

What Dean hasn't told you is that he has a reserved session with the dyno tomorrow and he doesn't have time to wait on the part to arrive from one of the speed shops. This is not a simple 180 deg fitting but a tight circumfrence bend that is out of sight but it can only be installed with the engine out of the car because of the tight fit of the engine. Dean has his engine out of the car now but must put it back in today for tomorrows dyno.

Given the positive posts of JB Welds performance I say go with it, especially since the rub has not worn through and the fact that the hose is a suction hose and not a pressure hose. Fix it and forget it Dean, I am sure it will be ok.


Clois

[John Martin]

Doesen't JB weld drip or run or move . How would you keep it in place when its setting up ?

[RICK LAKE]

dlampe MR LAMPE, is this part worth the possible damage of that $15,000.00 dollar motor? JB weld is good for temporary repairs. If the frame is rubbing on the part, you need to modify frame to clear the spot of the rub. This elbow is low pressure which is a good thing. JB weld works good on low pressure areas. There are 3 or 4 different types. 1 doesn't work well on all metals. JB sells aluminium 2 part which works well IF the area is clean of all, paints, oils, dirt. The area needs to be like and operation room. Brakekleen is not the best thing to clean the area with. It leaves a residue in the metal that stop the JB from sticking to. The info is good on the back of the tubes for the repair. Sounds like you need to have 2 of these parts made up until the car has down time for the repair. I don't think Gateway would like an oil down from you in Oct. I am sure they thanked you for mowing the grass, and looking for water puddles in the infield. Oil on the back of your car hitting the tires, could cause one hell of an accident. I know you are very safety minded. The 2 article where real nice in KC mag. Rick L. Ps You have alot of money, time, and family too think about also. Fix the frame or redesign the part to clear the area. Do you have a picture of the area? Can you thread in the elbow a couple more threads to clear the frame? Change the direction on the tube and add a 180 turn? Use a different fitting with a 360 degree rotating outlet? Shoot a picture, we can find the answer without benting the frame. Rick L.

[RICK LAKE]

Clois Harlan For a real temp REPAIR, use the JB weld. The fix it and forget it, this doesn't work for me. At the speeds he races at, that car needs to be 100%. The dyno cell is OK as long as the vibration is not cracking the joint on the line. It could start to loose vacuum. There must be other guys running the same setup as Dean. They must have had to find a fix for their cars too. It sound like he needs to rethink the problem and redesign the line. Hope your car is still in 1 piece. Sounds like a great R&G in the works. Have a job, will be maken the long trip at a slower speed this year. Looking for 14-15 mpg instead of the 12-13. Rick L.

[scottj]

Dean,

Don't laugh; when I was a younger kid I actually used JB Weld to patch a "window" in a V-6 outboard motor case on my dad's boat. The skirt of a piston broke off and came between the rod and the case and knocked a 2"x2" hole in the aluminum case. I patched the multiple fragments back in the hole with JB Weld. After it had cured I gave it on more layer of coverage and reassembled the motor with a new piston... it was still running 5yrs later when my dad traded it in.

Scott

[Dwight]

I bought a 91 Cadillac that had been salvaged. After I drove it a few days I checked the trannie fluid and it was low. I filled it up and it leaked out onto the driveway. I jacked the car up and found a crack in the trannie about half way up and six inches long. Damage from the wreck, the Caddie had been hit in the front driver fender head on at low speed. It drove the motor/trannie into the firewall. Thus the crack. I cleaned the crack with disc brake cleaner and pushed in the JB Weld. Next morning added the fluid and drove it for years.


I agree with Rick, replace the part now.


Dwight

[dlampe]

I have clearanced to motor mount so there is no chance of a rub. I have also patched the fitting. I did it yesterday afternoon and it looks great. I hear all the great stories about the JB weld and it seems like a perfect chance to use it. The are different epoxies in all of our cars. They seem to be used frequently in auto manufacturing. I know Clay is probably right. It will work fine since there isn't even a hole in the fitting and it will not rub any more. HOWEVER, Rick and the rest make a good point, replace the fitting and reschedule the dyno. The only thing wrong with what Rick said is the left side of the engine was $15,000 and so was the right side! I would hate to mess this up. For all those that say I shouldn't do this, have you ever seen JBweld fail? under what conditions?

Rick, there is no other way to make this work. I have the aeroquip and Russell shop catalogs and this is the only way, tight radius -12 180 swivel hose end.

[Excaliber]

I have seen it leak when it is applied to an area where the leak itself was still on going. That makes it impossible to ever get the area clean enough to get a good bond. I've also seen it crack when used in an area where flex of the repaired part is possible. I've used it to hold small studs in cross threaded or damaged thread areas and it's not very good in that application, depending on how tight the nut on the stud needs to be, it can pull the stud out. It is said you can 'drill and tap' a new hole using it, but thats never worked for me. I recently went with a heli coil over JB on a small engine case I was working on,,, but JB was tempting, again. Crack in a trans case or an out board motor 'hole in one' is an excellent application for a non stressed area. Gas tank crack on my Jeep, it's been four or five years and holding well, of course I don't RACE the Jeep. If it was Friday and were racing on Sunday with no chance for the part, I'd run it for the weekend at least, depending on the application. If I owned a boat, I'd never leave the dock without some on board!

[jdean]

When I was younger we had a washing machine that had a the water pump housing bust into 4-5 pieces. It was made out of pot metal. My dad joined it back together with JB Weld and it worked fine for years...never failed again. Amazing stuff.