Opinions About Oil Changes

SuperHart · #1 (**permalink**) 09-20-2008, 01:44 PM

Just wondering what the concensus of opinion is regarding oil changes. I have always thought that changing the oil in the Cobra at the end of the driving season just before tucking her in for the winter was a good idea to get rid of the acids and blow by that accumulate during the driving season. The other day I had a competent mechanic ask me why I did that. He suggested changing the oil in the Spring at the beginning of the driving season.

I run a 351W with dual quads (Holley #8007 390 cfm carbs), thermostatically operated oil cooler, street driving only, approximately 1500 miles per year. So, what's the concensus? Change in the Fall or change in the Spring?

jwd · #2 (**permalink**) 09-20-2008, 02:01 PM

In the fall for all the reasons you listed.

Jim

ERA713 · #3 (**permalink**) 09-20-2008, 02:36 PM

Change in the fall.

Dennis Kelley · #4 (**permalink**) 09-20-2008, 04:57 PM

Change in the spring and the fall. Whats another 50.00 bucks for the added sense of protection.
later
dennis

Bob In Ct · #5 (**permalink**) 09-20-2008, 09:04 PM

Do it in the fall. Don't give whatever junk the oil has accumulated all winter to settle.

Bob

bobcowan · #6 (**permalink**) 09-20-2008, 10:45 PM

You only drive 1500 miles per year. As long as you use a quality oil, it's not going to be "bad" after 1500 miles. I wouldn't hesitate to leave it until spring, and then put fresh oil in it for the new season.

If you're not sure, send a sample to Blackstone for analysis. I'll bet the pH hasn't changed any from new. For $12 you get the definitive asnwer, not some ones opinion.

Anthony · #7 (**permalink**) 09-21-2008, 06:55 AM

Change it in the fall. The oil isn't going to go bad after 6 months of sitting. Most engine manufacturers recommend changing the oil at least once per year, so you know the oil is good for at least a year.

nevermind65 · #8 (**permalink**) 09-21-2008, 07:11 AM

I think it would be more of an issue where you store the car for the Winter.

If you store it in a climate controlled garage that doesn't get opened until Spring, then change the oil in the Fall. If the garage is subject to climate/temperature change, change it in the Spring.

I've seen as much as a quart of water accumulate in the oil pan due to humidity and temperature change when a car was stored for Winter. Hot and cold changes make the block sweat and since water is heavier than oil, it settles in the bottom of the pan. Guess what happens when you crank up the engine next Spring?

If you only drive it 1500 miles/year, there isn't going to be a lot of contaminates in the oil anyhow.

trularin · #9 (**permalink**) 09-21-2008, 07:28 AM

Actually the junk drops to the bottom of the pan when you let the car sit over night.

I am trying to figure out if you actually have degraded the oil with out 1500 miles.

Are these hard driving 8000 rpm track miles or 2200 rpm putze around the street miles with a "show off" every-once-in-a-while and you just enjoyed driving around.

If you have been hammering on the throttle and the engine has seen some nice high rpm, high temperature beatings, you may want to have the oil test just to know what you are doing to the engine.

I think you may want to wait until the engine oil has been "used" whenever that is.

Just my $0.02 worth

vettestr · #10 (**permalink**) 09-21-2008, 10:28 AM

I do think an oil analysis would show the oil after 1500 miles was still serviceable and it is easy to spend another guys money BUT spoil yourself, change it in the fall. Even if it just makes you feel like you are trying to do the right thing. I also think spinning the engine over to wet the seals and compress different V springs is a good thing.

On our race engines we back all the pressure off the valve springs if going to store very long. Granted I am talking about some wild spring pressures but it also seals each cylinder a little better.

Michael C Henry · #11 (**permalink**) 09-21-2008, 01:32 PM

Again this year I didn't even get close to that 1,500 mile mark. I've not had any thing going on this year that would suggest any oil problems. I'm not going to change this year.
What about Gasoline? Park it with a full tank or near empty?
What about fuel stabilizer? I may get it out a couple of time this fall and winter.

Bob In Ct · #12 (**permalink**) 09-21-2008, 02:41 PM

Last fall I sent a sample of my drained oil to Blackstone for analysis. The oil (Mobil1 5W-30, 9qt pan) had 1,500 easy miles on it. Blackstone said it looked like it just came out of the bottle. If you're going to let the car sit all winter I would do it with a full tank of gas. Don't take a chance on humidity in the air condensing in your tank.

Bob

Ronbo · #13 (**permalink**) 09-21-2008, 05:56 PM

For you yanks up north who store your cars for the winter, drape a cover over the car and leave a 40W light bulb on under the car. This will raise the temp slightly above the outside air and eliminate the condensation.

Trick is not to let the car get colder than the surrounding air in the morning.

Or do like I did and move to Florida and drive it all year except for July and August.

DAVID GAGNARD · #14 (**permalink**) 09-21-2008, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael C Henry

Again this year I didn't even get close to that 1,500 mile mark. I've not had any thing going on this year that would suggest any oil problems. I'm not going to change this year.
What about Gasoline? Park it with a full tank or near empty?
What about fuel stabilizer? I may get it out a couple of time this fall and winter.

Fill the tank and add the fuel stabalizer......I've seen older cars that sat up for long periods have a lot of water condensed in the bottom of the tank and a lot of rust in the tank........

A full tank will have very little to no condensation.......

David