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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 05-05-2009, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobrabill View Post
Had a similar issue with a MSD Distributor.It turned out to be the magnet in the distributor was cracked thus interupting the "field".
I'll bet THAT was a bugger to find!

E
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-05-2009, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Great Asp View Post
I'll bet THAT was a bugger to find!

E

Lemme tell ya a story......the car would shut off going down the road.Just like you turned the key off.But would light back up as soon as you hit the key.(Que the sound of scratching my head).One night on the way to a cruise night,it shut off and this time it took a minute or two for it to re-start.This should have been a clue for me to turn my happy ass around and go back home.But,oh,no-not me.I had a cruise night to go to.

So the cruise night is ending.I hit the key and it just cranks and cranks and cranks.I wait 'till everyone else leaves and call the flat bed.

The next day,i'm trouble shooting.I have just about spare everything,but nothing fixes it.Now que the sound of me dragging a garden rake across my head.Monday morning i call MSD.They tell me that the likely culprit is a cracked magnet that worked it's way into two pieces over time.When i took the two screws out the lower magnet jumps into two seperate pieces.AHA!So i change it.And it lights back up pronto.No problems since.

Later that year,i talked to a tech at the track and he said that it was likely that a piece of something got on the magnet and acted as a "fulcrum" when the magnet was secured in the distributor base.

Aren't the Ford factory distributors similiar?
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Last edited by Cobrabill; 05-05-2009 at 06:00 PM..
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-05-2009, 07:15 PM
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Jerry,

I had the same problem. If you're running a MSD ignition ensure that the heavy red and heavy black wires from the MSD box are connected directly to the positive and ground terminals on the battery. There is no substitute for this configuration. Good luck.

Greg
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2009, 04:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobrabill View Post
Lemme tell ya a story......the car would shut off going down the road.Just like you turned the key off.But would light back up as soon as you hit the key.(Que the sound of scratching my head).One night on the way to a cruise night,it shut off and this time it took a minute or two for it to re-start.This should have been a clue for me to turn my happy ass around and go back home.But,oh,no-not me.I had a cruise night to go to.

So the cruise night is ending.I hit the key and it just cranks and cranks and cranks.I wait 'till everyone else leaves and call the flat bed.

The next day,i'm trouble shooting.I have just about spare everything,but nothing fixes it.Now que the sound of me dragging a garden rake across my head.Monday morning i call MSD.They tell me that the likely culprit is a cracked magnet that worked it's way into two pieces over time.When i took the two screws out the lower magnet jumps into two seperate pieces.AHA!So i change it.And it lights back up pronto.No problems since.

Later that year,i talked to a tech at the track and he said that it was likely that a piece of something got on the magnet and acted as a "fulcrum" when the magnet was secured in the distributor base.

Aren't the Ford factory distributors similiar?

MSD Distributor magnetic pickup failure is probably the most common MSD box/MSD distributor system problem there is. It's also not just a "cracked magnet" issue either. They often fail with no visible signs.

MSD has a great tech section on their web site. The simple test for the magnetic pickup is ... disconnect the 2 magnetic pickup leads from the distributor. Read the ohm value between the 2 leads. The reading should be between 400 and 1000 ohms, simple as that.

They also describe in detail how to easily and systematically go through your "MSD" system and trouble-shoot the problem.

BTW ... I had the same failure, having very smilar symptoms
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2009, 10:15 AM
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Thanks for the info on the distributor, I can't get to it until this weekend, but that will be the first place I look. The description that Cobrabill gave is identical to mine.

Thanks eveyone!
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Old 05-06-2009, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
running electronic distributor with ford parts
Are you using the OEM Ford ignition Module that bolts to the firewall or similar panel?
Do you know what year model car these parts were sourced from?
The earliest version of Fords electonic ignition in 1975 was VERY sensitive to heat, it left MANY people stranded at the side of the road. It is doubtfull that any of these same pieces were left on any running cars that you sourced your parts from, however I would for a matter of general repair, replace the module within the distributor they are abut $15-$30 depending on the brand you choose and also replace the ignition "BOX". The "BOXES" have a different colored plastic base which is how they were identified. At that point you will have a fresh ignition system. The very fine wires that make up the windings of the field module within the distributor are sometimes subject to corrosion and all it take is for that continuous strand of wire to get one break in it to park you at the side of the road.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2009, 11:38 AM
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Had same problem in my race car. Thought it was fuel because it would die turning left. Coast off the track, sit about 30 seconds then start right up. Get back in the race, two or three corners later, it would crap out again. Drove me crazy.

Turned out to be VERY simple. Wiring from the MSD box to the distributor. Turn left, wire swings right against the manifold. During racing the manifold gets pretty hot and thinned the insulator around a connection, then shorts out the ignition. Found it in the evening when we could see the spark with the hood up. Replaced the connector and zipped tied the wiring off the engine.

Start with the simple stuff.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2009, 11:47 AM
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Once an FBI agent told me the best way to annoy someone without breaking the law was to put a rubber in their gas tank. It quickly caps the fuel exit and shuts the car down. However as soon as they pull over it will crank back up because the rubber has floated away once the suction is gone. Usually takes a week or so for the rubber to dissolve. Rubber in your tank?
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2009, 12:06 PM
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Do you have a mechanical or electrical fuel pump?
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2009, 02:43 PM
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Based upon the responses the distributer will be a prime suspect when I can get at it this weekend.

Running a mechanical fuel pump

I will check the fuel filter as well

Thanks all
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