Chassis number received!

[RICK LAKE]

cscobra I run 3.31 gears and with the overdrive can turn 70 mph at 2,200 rpms give or take 100 or so. The 5 spds are not cheap but at gas going to $5.00 per gallon, you could pay off and over drive trans in 15,000 miles. It also saves the wear and tear on the motor. Just a thought. Rick L.

[ZOERA-SC7XX]

When driving regular city/rural roads, a 3:31 rear in 4th gear (toploader) will turn around 2000 rpm's at 45-50 mph, which is about the lowest range you'd want to run your FE engine in 4th gear. Unless you plan on lots of highway driving keep with the toploader, it's still the best tranny for your ERA Cobra.

[patrickt]

Well I'll chime in here... CSCobra, I have the 3.54 rear with the TKO .64 OD and I think it's absolutely perfect (for me, that is). That combination has the first four gears right where you want them for either non-highway street driving, tracking, or "spirited driving" and the .64 OD gives me 2000RPM at 68MPH in fifth. The only thing I use the fifth gear for is pleasant, relaxed highway cruising. You can actually chat with your passenger at 70MPH because the wind noise is louder than the pipes. If I was in fourth gear at 70MPH I would be turning 3300RPM -- that's a big difference. Your trans/rear/tire-size numbers are something you really want to think through and research -- it will make a make a big difference in how much you enjoy your car and changing them after the fact is a PITA. Not impossible mind you, just a PITA, so you might as well do it right the first time.

[RICK LAKE]

ZOERA-SC7XX The top loader is the correct trans for a cobra car.How many people are going to crawl under your car to see what trans is in it?Unless you have a BIG input and Big output trans in your car, It's not the best. The strongest trans for the late 60's early 70's was the Dodge hemi trans. I know from racing and taking out M22's rockcrushers, M21, Ford top loaders, both big and small shafts, For 1/4 mile the Hemi box was the best and strongest at that time. Today, the Richmond superstreet 5 spd is the way to go. Has overdrive, 2.87 first gear, straight gears and is good for 600HP and torque. IMO the design is alot simplier and stronger designed that the TKO 500 or 600. Less shafts and moving parts. Also the shift forks are stronger. Clay has not said what power he is looking for in the car, but with a complete under the car exhaust, 400-425hp limit is about all. I totally agree with the not lugging the motor on the highway at 2,000 rpms unless the motor was built for torque power and not HP. I have lugged my motor at 1,600 rpms, have 65 psi oil pressure to the motor, my 6 spd trans from richmond and 3.31 gears that do it all. IMO this is why tork motors which I build last alot longer between rebuilds than high HP motors. If you want to know what trans is in the car, I just ask the owner or look at the shifter knob. Just like you trying to save Clay money and time on his buildup. Like Pat, been there, done that the hard way. Some people listen and some go deaf and cry later. We don't know how smart, knowledgable,or the garage and tools Clay has. I think the ERA guys do have an excellent idea on what works and doesn't in these cars. The changes I have made to my car are large. Down the road I am looking at out board brakes and lighten the car wieght some more for racing. We are all trying to help Clay and make it easier from start to finish and have many good years of care free driving.Rick L.

[Rickd]

Very good recommendation on the new Richmond Gear "street / strip" tranny. Cost is about the same as a Tremec TKO600, it is, I believe, a better tranny, and it also has a .73 OD that, in my mind, is the perfect "missing link", as with Tremec you're either at a .64 or a .80.

[SSSammy]

Clay, sorry to be so tardy responding to your question .. I've been tearing my clutch down .. trying to figure out why it doesn't Appears torque monster FE and organic disc is a bad choice ..

Anyway .. #745 is 2007 Viper Silver with 2007 Viper Red stripes.

Good advice from other ERA owners on the bonding. If you are going to use a local painter, then I'd do it like ERA does it up to the point they send it to paint: powder coat frame, bond and rivet on the body, then send to paint as a bonded unit on dolly wheels. That way the aluminum panels don't go on till after paint. So have them ship it to you the way they ship it to the CT paint shops.

There will still be plenty of craft work in installing the aluminum panels I went further and had it made as a full painted roller. It just doesn't cost that much more in the big scheme.

Sam

[cscobra]

Thank you, Sam--I'll look through my pictures from that ERA visit and see if I can find your car.

I like your idea about sending it to my painter the way ERA does--gives me more to do that way! I had also planned on painting the frame, etc., myself but I will rethink that, as well. Per our previous conversation last month, Peter had already agreed to drill every aluminum-to-chassis, aluminum-to-aluminum, and body to chassis rivet hole for me so that all I would have to do is rivet--it seems that everything should be located pretty well that way, but I'm willing to reconsider.

I'm afraid the toploader is here to stay since I already have it. I do appreciate the great advice from all of you--your arguments make good sense. I'm looking forward, though, to experiencing the feel of the original as much as I can recreate it. I've enjoyed that same process with my MG for over fifteen years.

[ZOERA-SC7XX]

Quote: "I'm looking forward, though, to experiencing the feel of the original as much as I can recreate it."
That's what I was looking for in my Cobra and I think I found it with an iron 428 and a toploader. I wasn't into re-inventing the wheel. Good luck

[cscobra]

Originally Posted by ZOERA-SC7XX

Quote: "I'm looking forward, though, to experiencing the feel of the original as much as I can recreate it."
That's what I was looking for in my Cobra and I think I found it with an iron 428 and a toploader. I wasn't into re-inventing the wheel. Good luck

Sounds like we have similar preferences. My toploader is definitely cast-iron; I will use an aluminum intake on my otherwise cast-iron FE, though, but that's about it. I think the combination will make a good street Cobra replica.

[ZOERA-SC7XX]

I use an Edelbrock Performer RPM w/Holly 750 cfm carb & Comp Cams hyd (270H) cam. Runs nice...not too much HP, lots of torque. Check my gallery. Good luck.

[cscobra]

Your car looks great, especially 718-3. That view, to me, has always shown a 427 Cobra at its best.

Your engine setup sounds perfect--torque is king!

[408FIA]

Clay, you mentioned that you were finishing up a rebuild of a jag rear, can you take me thru the process, did you take any pics? the more info the better, as I am about to tear into mine...

send me an email if you want jeff.warren@brooks.com

[LodiWino]

Peter called with my chassis number today... #773. CSCOBRA posted his chassis number as 766 on 07-01-08. That's 7 cars in 7 business days. There's no shortage of business at ERA! Going back to see grandkids in Rowaton CT on August 1st and will make time for a visit to ERA to finalize the build spec. Can't wait!

[M164285]

Congratulations on getting your chassis number. I know the feeling as my chassis number is 768. Peter said I should have my car in early September. My son and I are going up to see the car just prior to them shipping it.

Enjoy.

Clyde

[fkemmerer]

Originally Posted by cscobra

I heard from Peter today--ERA #766 will be mine.
Life is good.

Congratulations on your ERA! When you get a chance, please share some of the details/plans that you have for your car. What are you planning on for a power plant? Have you selected a painter, colors yet?

ERA #753 will be delivered to me on Friday of this week. I'll be doing the installation of the drivetrain and associated electrical work/plumbing.

- Fred