Finding a new timing pointer location?

RET_COP · #1 (**permalink**) 10-19-2009, 04:28 PM

I installed a new balancer on my motor (351w) and I want to find another point on the motor so I can easily read the timing, plus I don’t trust the cheesy tab I have on the passenger side that I can barley see. After I install the piston stop on compression stroke for #1 and turn the motor clockwise, hit the stop and move my makeshift pointer to that spot and mark it, can I then pull the stop out and move the piston to the downstroke a few degrees, insert the stop and then rotate the crank counterclockwise and hit the stop again. From here mark that spot and measure the total distance and TDC is halfway between, do I have this right?.
thanks,
Lou

patrickt · #2 (**permalink**) 10-19-2009, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RET_COP

... TDC is halfway between, do I have this right?.
thanks,

Yes. Just make sure you insert your piston stop to exactly the same depth both times (make a "12 o'clock" on it so you know you've put it in the same depth both times). Your TDC will be exactly mid point between your two marks from when the piston hit the stop each time.

RET_COP · #3 (**permalink**) 10-20-2009, 05:47 PM

Thanks Patrick
Lou

Barnsnake · #4 (**permalink**) 10-20-2009, 09:12 PM

I wouldn't pull the piston stop between marks. It's too easy to introduce an error. Just roll the motor backwards the 270-300 degrees needed to hit the stop. A 2 or 3 degree error could make the difference between high-performance and detonation.

RET_COP · #5 (**permalink**) 10-22-2009, 02:57 AM

I'm waiting for the piston stop to come in, but in the meantime I'm looking at the timing tab which is located at the 10 o clock position and its about 3/4 wide. Which side edge is usually the timing location, Top or Bottom. It probably covers at least 10*.
Lou

patrickt · #6 (**permalink**) 10-22-2009, 05:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RET_COP

I'm looking at the timing tab which is located at the 10 o clock position and its about 3/4 wide. Which side edge is usually the timing location, Top or Bottom. It probably covers at least 10*.
Lou

Even I can't tell you via this forum where your timing tab should be.

But I can show you a pic of mine with the piece of metal tack welded to a pointer to be at exactly the right spot on my engine. Here it is -- I read the timing marks at the BOTTOM.

RET_COP · #7 (**permalink**) 10-22-2009, 04:32 PM

LOL thanks for the reply Patrick. I was a Chevy guy for years in Drag Racing and never had any problems with timing until I switched to Ford

. Geesh, 10 o'clock, 11 o;clock, 2 o'clock, blank timing tabs, pre 1970, post 1974, big block, small block, 28oz., 50oz. Its been a learning experience but I have my dream car and I am having a blast. My tab has a curved outer edge on the bottom side and a flat square edge on the top. I finally call a local Ford shop that has good mechanics that have been there along time. The guy I spoke to knew exactly what I was talking about. He said don't read the bottom with the rounded outer edge. Read the top.

Lou

Gunner · #8 (**permalink**) 12-15-2009, 07:08 PM

Patrick, I was searching threads looking for info on FE timing pointers and found this slightly dusty thread. After pulling the alternator, I pulled the timing pointer as well to clean it up and perhaps powdercoat it - and found that someone, I assume Joe Lapine, had brazed an extension tab to the bottom. It looks much like yours but not as neatly done.

What's up with this? Why would a stock 6.5" damper need anything but a stock pointer? I've searched for a replacement and found 50-zillion for SBFs, as many for Chebbys, a handful for Ford 358s... but nothing for FEs.

I guess I'm going to have to TDC the engine to be sure. If anyone can explain this weird offset, or point me to a decent (not $$$ billet) adjustable pointer for the FE, I'd appreciate it...

patrickt · #9 (**permalink**) 12-15-2009, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gunner

What's up with this? Why would a stock 6.5" damper need anything but a stock pointer?

It's the combination of new parts. You have a new crankshaft, along with your new damper (maybe the degree lines are where they were 40 years ago, maybe not), so TDC doesn't show up where it did 40 years ago. Neither does your cam. Maybe you've got an off-size timing chain, cams aren't always ground exactly as you think they are, so puttiing the key in the 6ADV slot does not always mean your cam comes up exactly six degrees advanced. You have to degree it (well, you don't... it's already been done for you.) Go ahead and use a piston stop and find TDC, my bet is that it's going to be right on the money with the fabbed pointer.

Gunner · #10 (**permalink**) 12-15-2009, 08:05 PM

'Kay. I just wish Joe or whoever had done a better job on the braze - it's a pretty crappy job. I'll redo my own once I TDC the engine.

bobcowan · #11 (**permalink**) 12-15-2009, 09:16 PM

IMO, the factory timing marks are just not that accurate. They're good enough for the average street car. But for performance use you really need to accuratly identify TDC. As said above, the differance between performance and detonation is only 2-3*.

So, I made my own pointer to match the balancer marks. Nothing fancy, just some 1/4" rod welded to a washer.