Here we go again? Roush

[csx4910]

Greg, I only know of the Valero station at cave creek and union hills and the station at the paviliions that can do the 100 or 110. Are there any others you know of in Scottsdale? I have found my 511 like the mixture as well of 91 with some 100 mixed in about 50/50
Ron

[greg schroeder]

Originally Posted by csx4910

Greg, I only know of the Valero station at cave creek and union hills and the station at the paviliions that can do the 100 or 110. Are there any others you know of in Scottsdale? I have found my 511 like the mixture as well of 91 with some 100 mixed in about 50/50
Ron

56th street and Bell had the higher octane fuel a while back. There are some places out in the Gilbert area which my brother in law buys from too. I sold him my car and he runs the higher octane too.

You can buy really high octane in a 5 gallon can to keep in the garage also. When it's time to fill up dump some in the tank and mix down at the gas station.

Here's something fun. This is a stock Porsche 996 twin turbo X50 on 91 octane fuel and 100 octane fuel. The car backs out big timing to run on the lower octane and looses quite a bit of power. This is a 3rd gear pull for the Porsche with the car in motion. It's over 55 HP loss! Naturally the Porsche computer makes short work of this to keep the engine safe, but most Cobras don't have such elaborate software and hardward for engine management.

[eddytheb]

Does roush tell you what oil to use? I know there have been allot of changes in the oils over the years and many are not good for some motors. The feds made it hard for the oil company's and lots of things have been removed from the oils. I know for some time we could not keep cams in motors and it was the lack of zinc and a few other things that were not in the oil anymore. I am very carful what oil I use in fresh builds and older style motors.


Stop by and see what we are working on @ www.eddytheb.com

[madmaxx]

greg what oil did you use in your Roush? You always provide excellent information, thanks!!!

[eddytheb]

Read this its good food for thought and there is allot more to oil than the average guy thinks. I cant help but think that it would also effect every part in a motor in some way. Will rings seat right will bearings hold up I bet not.



http://www.racingheadservice.com/Inf...ID=-1228096506

[greg schroeder]

Originally Posted by eddytheb

Does roush tell you what oil to use? I know there have been allot of changes in the oils over the years and many are not good for some motors. The feds made it hard for the oil company's and lots of things have been removed from the oils. I know for some time we could not keep cams in motors and it was the lack of zinc and a few other things that were not in the oil anymore. I am very carful what oil I use in fresh builds and older style motors.


Stop by and see what we are working on @ www.eddytheb.com

Roush says to use 10W-30 for break in non-synthetic. I'd wonder how many installs go and stick synthetic in there or another weight, or no break in. I've always used Castrol 10W-30 natural S classification oil in my Roush 427R with the highest second letter I can find. SJ is pretty easy to find and it would have the better protection than something like SG or such.

This is an interesting link.
http://www.syntheticlubes.com/what_is_a_motor_oil_.html

Something about a street car that we fart around in 99% of the time is it makes sense to me to keep running natural 10W-30 and just change it every 500 or 1000 miles. The very marginal amount of time one might hammer a few gears on the on ramp to the freeway or make one or two car club day idle start drag passes for 11 seconds isn't going to comprimise the oil and its ability to do it's job on a properly tuned engine. On the other side of an extreme if the engine was to be put at continued stress doing laps for several minutes without relief another oil might be better. Lap cars wear out faster. Lap cars on wrong air fuel ratio break real quick.

[madmaxx]

Thanks Greg. You are right I was talking to our Mobil representative about my boat with flat tappets and asked about the additives. Their response was anything under 1K miles or less than 50 hour on a boat and you can use any oil. The additives deplete overtime, and you get no advantage starting with more additives except the additives are in the oil longer. If you are changing every 1K miles you will always be adequate protected if you are going 10K mile between oil changes with out roller lifters you need a different oil or an additive package.

Mobil 1 10W30 at walmart is $23.50 for 5 quarts, my system holds 8 so for $50 per year I'll use the synthetic for grins, heck I spent $13.00 at lunch today. I think most use an oil much to heavy such as 20W50 when they should be using 10W30 I also feel most run their engine way to cool at 170F on coolant temperature.

That being said my boat has a 140F thermostat since it is sea water cooled, 20 years old, first oil change is when filter rusted through at 7 years. It has over 1500 hours and will be on the lake this weekend. It amazes me the block has not corroded through. I start it and full throttle revers to pull it off the trailer, so I question if abusing a cold engine has any determental effects, I am sure it does but are they measurable.

[madmaxx]

Oh and as you know the Roush has roller lifters so I could go 10K between oil changes and not have any issues, then again that would take me 10 years LOL!!!