Motorcraft FL-1hp pressure drop

[Bob In Ct]

Typically racing filters have a much higher micron rating. They provide more flow at the expense of less filtering. Currently I'm using a Moroso racing filter with a micron rating of 27. The Motorcraft FL-1A is probably about 11. I thought the HP was in the 50s.

Bob

[madmaxx]

Excellent question. The best I can find on the FL-1Hp and not from the Ford site is 28 microns which is higher than the 20 microns on the 1a. I surfed every ford website and never once did they specify a micron rating on the HP. All these companies supply half ass information. Looks like more pressure testing this weekend. I am going to swap out the FL-1hp and try the 1A, see what happens with the differentail pressure. I can digest 27 micron, but if it is in the 50's which I doubt we will ever know it is another useless filter.

I found another site which specified 97% efficiency for the 1HP but as the dumb fuks at royal purple did, the dumb fuks at ford racing did not specify a micron rating for the 1 hp. (royal purple is 97% at 20 micron, 99% at 25 micron)

Originally Posted by Bob In Ct

Typically racing filters have a much higher micron rating. They provide more flow at the expense of less filtering. Currently I'm using a Moroso racing filter with a micron rating of 27. The Motorcraft FL-1A is probably about 11. I thought the HP was in the 50s.

Bob

[Bob In Ct]

I got this info from the Wix web site www.wixfilters.com .

Their 51515 (FL-1A equivalent) had a by-pass of 8-11 pounds and a micron rating of 21. Their 51515R racing filter had a by-pass of 8-11 pounds and a micron rating of 61.

Bob

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

My wife refuses to allow me to cut open any more filters, have her hold any more gagues, or have me smell like gasoline all night, LOL. I gave up beer 7 weeks ago, lost 8lbs and only run 3 nights a week instead of 5, she says she was happier when I was drinking LOL. Once she recovers I would like to test a Royal Purple filter since they have the sythetic media.

madmaxx - Your garage floor must look like a BP disaster site. BTW - You've already blown any future cost savings on the FL1 vs. HP due to your investment in oil filters that have been sacrificed in the name of science.

[madmaxx]

I agree with the Wix site but that does not mean the HP has 61 or should I say I sure hope the hell it doesnt since that is what I have been using. On a side note if you want use a filter with a larger micron rating then the FILTERMAG is the perfect solution. A coworker brought one into work, it was incredible strong. Their website indicated particles down to 2 micron!!!!!!!!! So, if you like the low dp across the filter, slap on a filter mag to get the ferrous materials.

I did speak with Royal Purple, they are working on my questions, they indicated 97% efficiency at 20 micron!! 50% at 5 micron. The big question is what the pressure drop will be because if you bypass you aint filtering.

IF the hp does have a 61 micron rating, that would explain my little dp across the filter. Who the heck would ever recommend that filter on a street motor????

[madmaxx]

I can take out the plug and screw the 1/2npt in and only loose about a teaspoon. On the other side where the temp sending unit is, I loose even less I did leave out the oil burns on my hands and the fact I caught a towl on fire when the 90F wind blew the towl onto my header. As my 5 year old is screaming I just kept telling her to hold the gauge where I could see it!!!!!!! It is when I saw the smoke I knew something else was going on

Originally Posted by Got the Bug

madmaxx - Your garage floor must look like a BP disaster site. BTW - You've already blown any future cost savings on the FL1 vs. HP due to your investment in oil filters that have been sacrificed in the name of science.

[kitcarbp]

MADMAXX, Great thread, thanks for sharing your data. I also have the FL1 HP that was shipped with my Ford Racing crate engine but since I also will be mostly street, I will be using the Walmart sourced FL-1A.
The 400 psi burst pressure rating of the FL1 HP canister only helps the fatigue life of the can in pressure cycling. The thicker gauge steel used on the can shell gives a higher "burst rating". In racing, the peak pressures seen at the oil filter and the frequency of the the oil pressure cycling in the filter (30 psi to 70 psi cycling as an example) must be greater than street driven engines due to the wide swing in engine rpms in racing. So I imagine the FL1HP steel can design will out perform the standard FL1A can when tested on a pressure cycling rig to simulate the extreme oil pressures and rapid rise and fall of the pressures in the filter can in racing. There is probably an SAE test for burst testing oil filters. It could be marketing hype, I have no racing experience nor burst oil filter experience, perhaps those that race their engines can advise what they have learned. Even a clogged filter will allow the by-pass valve to kick in to prevent a burst filter which we all agree is a bad thing.


I too have no confirmed filter (micron rating) data direct from Ford (actually the Motorcraft filters are manufactued by Purulator and/or Champion Labs last I read. OEMs will often dual source and/or switch suppliers based on you guessed it, pricing!

Check out this study made by a enthusiast ith some good info, a great read for gear heads where FL1A type aftermarket filters are examined, perhaps youve seen it.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html

[RodKnock]

OK, so Fram and K&N suck, and now the micron rating of the FL1A HP is too high. What are we left with to use? Just the FL1A, Wix and Moroso?

[YerDugliness]

Allow me to play the devil's advocate and get an education at the same time--why is the bypass issue so important? As I understand it, the bypass "opens" only when the filter media is clogged up....is there anyone on here who ever lets their Cobra accumilate enough miles between oil/filter changes that a clogged filter is an issue?

Can the bypass "open" due to excessive pressure, as in an extremely high pressure oil pump.....or does the bypass "open" only when the filter media will not pass adequate oil?

Sorta confused here....but find this thread incredibly interesting!

Cheers from Dugly !

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

OK, so Fram and K&N suck, and now the micron rating of the FL1A HP is too high. What are we left with to use? Just the FL1A, Wix and Moroso?

Was in Wally World the other day getting oil and filter for my 05 Super Duty diesel truck....Guess what I found??????????

I always open the oil filter box and make sure it is the correct filter in the correct box before going to the checkout and what I found was the Fram filter and Ford Motorcraft filter for my truck looked exactly identical, so I turned them over and they both had the exact same numbers on the bottom and same markings on the top, only exception was the Ford filter had a Ford stamp on it and Fram had a Fram stamp on it!!!!!!!!!!!
Otherwise, the EXACT same filter with the EXACT same numbers/markings,including the same part numbers and same patent numbers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

About a $1.50 more for the Ford filter......

Now which filter is better?????????
They are the same exact filter!!!!!!!!!!!!! other than the Fram/Ford stamping and the box they were in, they ARE the same exact filter!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

David

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

OK, so Fram and K&N suck, and now the micron rating of the FL1A HP is too high. What are we left with to use? Just the FL1A, Wix and Moroso?

I think the jury is still out on whether the FL1HP has too high of a micron rating, but I think a lot of us are very anxious to hear if it does!

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

OK, so Fram and K&N suck, and now the micron rating of the FL1A HP is too high. What are we left with to use? Just the FL1A, Wix and Moroso?

Just stick with whatever your engine builder recommends. This is interesting, but in the long run a good sold name brand (except for maybe Fram) oil filter will be sufficient based on the frequency/miles that most Cobra owners change their oil.

I don't change the oil on my daily drivers (too much of a hassle). I've had two cars that I put 250K miles on that lived on the cheapest oil and no name filter that Jiffy Lube has. The factory recommendation for an oil change is 7,500 miles, the oil change places say 3,000 (waste of money). I say 5,000 miles...seems to work OK.

[RodKnock]

OK guys. I'll be doing an oil change this Winter and........

[Calbullet]

David, the filter for your SuperDuty diesel is a cartridge type and not a screw on canister. two different animals altogether. original filter was designed by Mann. first couple of years, all 6.0 diesel were from the same place.

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by Calbullet

David, the filter for your SuperDuty diesel is a cartridge type and not a screw on canister. two different animals altogether. original filter was designed by Mann. first couple of years, all 6.0 diesel were from the same place.

o-k, but does Ford manufacter their own filters, does AC Delco do it or do they have another manufacter make them for their use?????
I wonder how many companies Fram makes filters for?????

Same goes for oil, never seen a Ford or Red Line or Joe Gibbs oil refinery, they get one of the major oil companies to manufacter their oil for them, albiet to their specs......
A buddy of mine is a chemical engineer at an Exxonn refinery here in La., and he tells me the list is very,very long of the companies they make products for.......

While I'm not a poster boy for Fram and don't own their stock, I do use their filters...

Company car # 1, 250,000 miles, nothing but Shell Rotella T 15/40 oil and Fram filter since new...engine had never been touched, sold it to get a newer model....

Company car # 2, 431,610 miles till it was totaled in auto accident, nothing but Shell Rotella T 15/40 and Fram filter since new,engine had never been touched......

Comany car #3, as of today, 101,000 miles, Shell Rotella T 15/40, Fram filter...........
Same goes for my wifes car and daughters car.....

They work for me......

David

[zrayr]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

OK, so Fram and K&N suck, and now the micron rating of the FL1A HP is too high. What are we left with to use? Just the FL1A, Wix and Moroso?

has the Mobil 1 filter been eliminated from contention ?

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil.../opinions.html


Z.

[Mark IV]

Originally Posted by DAVID GAGNARD

o-k, but does Ford manufacter their own filters, does AC Delco do it or do they have another manufacter make them for their use?????
I wonder how many companies Fram makes filters for?????

No, Ford does not maunufacture the filters themselves, they do however specify the design and materials of the filters. Many filters are manufactured by Champion Laboratories (NOT the spark plug "Champion") and Wix as well as some other suppliers. All are capable of making great stuff....or junk. Don't think for a minute that STP, Mobil or Roush have people in a room building oil filters, all those are contracted out to specification. No different than gasoline refining where one refinery turns out multiple brands with different additive packages as specified.

[madmaxx]

I apologize for all the confusion. I am still trying to figure it out. I have actual test data with calibrated gauges. If the Ford FL-HP has a 27 micron rating or lower in my opinion it is the best filter. If it has a 60 micron rating it is a poor choice for a street engine. The differential pressure I registered across it was fantastic, I am guaranteed never to bypass and if for some strange reason it did it bypasses on the clean side of the filter!!!!

This link http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html has some dated material, on the motorcraft which he compares as a puralator he indicateds a dome side bypass or in other words dirty side, this is not true, I know for a fact it is a clean side.

I need to install a FL-1A filter and check the differential across it. If it is less than 10 psig after the engine is warm it is my filter of choice since the bypass opens at 11 psig. Even if it is more than 10 psig with engine cold I dont care, let it bypass, it is a CLEAN SIDE BYPASS. I also know the micron rating is 25.

If in fact any of us can find what the micron rating for the FL-1HP and it is less than 30 micron, another great choice.

As far as asking the engine builder, forget it, they know less than we all do at this point and to be honest if your engine is good shape anything will work.

I quit drinking got off on a tanget and now trying to get to the bottom of it.

[madmaxx]

I plan on testing the 1A on Friday. If it has the same pressure drop as the 1HP then we know the micron rating is close enough. I still have my gauges hooked up so all i need to is swap filters.

As far as the Mobil, I dont know why I never have looked at them. Royal Purple has caught my attention. I guess for $15.00 I can find out for sure if the royal purple has a big pressure drop.

anybody know how much a divorce cost, LOL!!!! See the problem is my wife or one of the kids has to hold the pressure gauges so I can see them as I rev the engine to get pressure readings at 1k, 2K, 3K rpm's.

I bet in the end, I find no filter with a greater than 8 psig pressure drop cold or hot.

[madmaxx]

I hate to ramble but I think what we may be missing is the pressure drops across our oil coolers, mine is 7 psig!!!!! That seams like a huge waste, to get 60 psig at the engine my pump has to put out 67 psig!!! and that is with a hot engine

I have never been a believer in them for our street/weekend track cars, they cause the engine oil to take longer to warm up etc. They look cool, Cashburn had the right idea, oil fooler, it looks real but not hooked up.

I dont want to change anything now until I get done testing but I may just pipe back from the remote mount to the engine and leave the useless oil cooler out of the loop. I have never ever seen my oil temp above 100C, my old vette would get to 240F at times.