Motorcraft FL-1hp pressure drop - Page 7

ACademic · #**121** (**permalink**) 10-30-2010, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

What you see there is about an hour's worth of work

That's one hour you will never get back.

I'm not trying to be crass here, but you totally ruined two perfectly good fittings because you own a $70,000 car and were too cheap to buy $70 worth of Aeroquip replacements in the coatings that you desire. Wow. Just wow.

patrickt · #**122** (**permalink**) 10-30-2010, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ACademic

That's one hour you will never get back.

I'm not trying to be crass here, but you totally ruined two perfectly good fittings because you own a $70,000 car and were too cheap to buy $70 worth of Aeroquip replacements in the coatings that you desire. Wow. Just wow.

Yep, that's me. Cheap as they come.

RodKnock · #**123** (**permalink**) 10-30-2010, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Yep, that's me. Cheap as they come.

More money left to spend at the oyster bar.

Here. I'll provide you with some additional help.

http://www.aeroquip.cc/

patrickt · #**124** (**permalink**) 10-30-2010, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodKnock

More money left to spend at the oyster bar.

Here. I'll provide you with some additional help.

http://www.aeroquip.cc/

Thank you, but I have those going to my oil cooler.

Buzzing off the red and blue really looks very nice, although I haven't gotten all of the last little bits. I must say I like the way it looks now quite a bit, so it will be interesting to see how the oxidation changes it since it's bare aluminum. Come on, it's not like a spent 20 hours on it like I did the third brake/running light... which is a work of art, I must say.

ERA Chas · #**125** (**permalink**) 10-31-2010, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ACademic

I'm not trying to be crass here, but you totally ruined two perfectly good fittings because you own a $70,000 car and were too cheap to buy $70 worth of Aeroquip replacements in the coatings that you desire. Wow. Just wow.

An absolutely perfect assessment of a man who'll spend $250 on a valve adjustment reader (once every third year on a restaurant troller) but scrimp on lifetime fittings.

-And please DO be crass when referring to Bumhole of the Bailey.

ERA Chas · #**126** (**permalink**) 10-31-2010, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcdoug

Uh, no we don't. He's the king of half-ass. But we try and goad him into doing it right.

SPEAKING OF GOADING DC,
What WAS the result of the valve cover tutorial I earnestly gave you??

You remember-fill step at head/intake juncture, gasket with R/S and Mariachi's home-brew grease-did I overlook your results or are you hoping to skulk away into the night??? Some guys gave their best advice to help you.

patrickt · #**127** (**permalink**) 10-31-2010, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

a man who'll spend $250 on a valve adjustment reader (once every third year on a restaurant troller)...

And you should see my restaurant tab....

And btw, re-used rubber v/c gaskets, open gear grease, and nuts torqued to 7 ft/lbs. Not a sign of a leak today.

RodKnock · #**128** (**permalink**) 10-31-2010, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Not a sign of a leak today.

Besides the hot air from your mouth you mean.

Eh, it's Halloween. What can I say....other than buy some Aeroquip.

ERA Chas · #**129** (**permalink**) 10-31-2010, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

...and nuts torqued to 7 ft/lbs.

What brand of T/W reads down to 7 ft/lbs? Or do you convert from in/lbs?

patrickt · #**130** (**permalink**) 10-31-2010, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

What brand of T/W reads down to 7 ft/lbs? Or do you convert from in/lbs?

84 inch/lbs. I re-torque it after the first heat cycle and then it's done. I need the smaller torque wrench more than the others as I tend to have a "heavy hand."

dcdoug · #**131** (**permalink**) 10-31-2010, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

SPEAKING OF GOADING DC,
What WAS the result of the valve cover tutorial I earnestly gave you??

You remember-fill step at head/intake juncture, gasket with R/S and Mariachi's home-brew grease-did I overlook your results or are you hoping to skulk away into the night??? Some guys gave their best advice to help you.

Still waiting on the OG grease - Elmariachi hasn't gotten it yet from the guy he bought it from, so hasn't sent it. No rush for me though, LOTS of visitors in the last few weeks and busy work schedule, so no time with the cobra unfortunately.

Don't worry, I'll post when I get it done and report back if the super-goo grease does the trick. I did decide to say with the felpro blue stripe gaskets by the way.

patrickt · #**132** (**permalink**) 10-31-2010, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcdoug

Still waiting on the OG grease - Elmariachi hasn't gotten it yet from the guy he bought it from, so hasn't sent it.

Screw that bum Elmariachi.

Here, use the stuff I use, it's great and you can get it off Ebay for $20. Just remember to use it in a well ventilated area.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dow-Corning-1122...item2eac905a72

ERA Chas · #**133** (**permalink**) 10-31-2010, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Screw that bum Elmariachi.

Here, use the stuff I use,

Screw this guy with his toxic blend and go buy my Kendall axle grease for $2.49 and be done with it. Tastes good too.

Don't look for Marichi. He's on a secret mission for the State Department to drink up all the Mexican beer in Texas and convert it to urine.

patrickt · #**134** (**permalink**) 10-31-2010, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Screw this guy with his toxic blend and go buy my Kendall axle grease...

Anything that is basically poison will always work better than something that is safe. And I take comfort in the fact that Dow warns you right there on the label that if you breathe the stuff you will go to sleep.

ERA Chas · #**135** (**permalink**) 10-31-2010, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

I take comfort in the fact that Dow warns you right there on the label that if you breathe the stuff you will go to sleep.

Which is probably why your lethargic 42-er8 engine makes 342 HP.

patrickt · #**136** (**permalink**) 10-31-2010, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Which is probably why your lethargic 42-er8 engine makes 342 HP.

Gosh Chas, and I've been extra nice to you lately.

dcdoug · #**137** (**permalink**) 10-31-2010, 07:56 PM

EL already bought it and is sending it up. No rush for me. Leaking is minimal and driving days are limited. I think it was $8 or something.

PLDRIVE · #**138** (**permalink**) 10-31-2010, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by era chas

which is probably why your lethargic 42-er8 engine makes 342 hp.

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

Bobcat · #**139** (**permalink**) 11-01-2010, 08:31 AM

Hey Max ... as a point of reference on filtration levels , our gear pump division ( the old Borg Warner ) said that 25 micron was acceptable for what we called sleeve bearing pumps , or as others may call them , plain or journal bearing pumps . The only time we needed to get into super low micron levels ( 3 micron absolute ) was with piston pump equipment . I haven`t followed the current thinking for a while , but do remember some "discussions" between engineers about filtration levels getting so low that there was the possibility of removing some of the hydraulic oil additives .... but they were talking about 3 microns and finer . Our engines are very similar to hydraulic pump/motors in the bearing concept ... and requirements . I`m very comfortable with 25 micron levels for an engine .
Filtration is somewhat about trade offs . The finer you go , unless you increase the dirt holding capacity ( more filter media area ) the shorter the element life ... to a point . The initial start up is when the system is the dirtiest and when the filter life is the shortest . As the system is run and cleaned up , the element life increases ... until some component starts to fail or contaminant is introduced from outside the engine . As a filter "clogs up" , you do filter smaller particles out , but you also increase pressure drop across the element ... that and also cold start ups , is why there are bypass valves on the filters .
As a side note ... we used to make a lot of roller bearing pumps/motors for the mining industry since filtration/maintenance there was horrible . Testing and practical experience showed that the rollers actually crushed the larger particles into "smaller" ones and the pumps lived longer .... which a plain bearing can`t do .
This is a VERY basic and brief background on a very complex subject that filter companies have spent a lot of time , money and research on over the years .
Thanks for all your work on this subject that a lot of us will .... or should , benefit from !!!

Bob

LRRCobradreamer · #**140** (**permalink**) 11-01-2010, 02:30 PM

I looked for a link to filtration and found one on Hydraulic Systems that is a good one. These are the basics in filtration and an engine is similar, but different in the contaminates from the combustion process, IMO. I am no specialist on engine oil systems, but did spend some time in the hydraulics industry.

I have not read all the posts, so if this is redundant then please ignore this post.

http://www.hydraulicspneumatics.com/...ydraulicFilter

Hopefully the link works.

One thing to remember, if oil leaks out, particles (dirt) can ingress into a system.

Bypass valves are generally for cold start conditions and if the filter get plugged. Also paper filter are depth type filters and tend to "hold" dirt particles even if bypass is opened for cold start (short time). These are "multi pass" filtration systems, so the oil is filtered many many times per minute. Particle count usually drops as the system runs, unless high wear is present or a lot of dirt is coming in from outside the sealed system (ingression).

Lee