351W cam

redmt · #1 (**permalink**) 12-01-2010, 11:23 AM

I picked up a 351 w efi motor from an older bronco. My question is that I understood that roller cam/lifters would fit into these blocks? Did the engines come with roller cams? This one has a flat tappet setup.

Thanks,
John

blykins · #2 (**permalink**) 12-01-2010, 11:43 AM

What year is it?

The roller cam blocks were 94-up if I remember correctly. The block would be drilled and tapped for the lifter spider.

redmt · #3 (**permalink**) 12-01-2010, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins

What year is it?

The roller cam blocks were 94-up if I remember correctly. The block would be drilled and tapped for the lifter spider.

I'll have to find out about the year. I take it the drilling and tapped area is in the lifter valley? Don't recall seeing anything "unusual" in that are. I'll go look after lunch.

Thanks

blykins · #4 (**permalink**) 12-01-2010, 01:32 PM

Yes sir. Look right down in the bottom of the lifter valley. There should be (2) 1/4-20 tapped holes.

PANAVIA · #5 (**permalink**) 12-01-2010, 02:38 PM

There are also Conversion lifters from Ford Motorsport ( FRPP) . -- you can use these in lots of things.

Steve

redmt · #6 (**permalink**) 12-01-2010, 03:20 PM

This one is a 1990.

blykins · #7 (**permalink**) 12-01-2010, 03:42 PM

Not a roller block then.

You can still run a roller cam though if you want. It will just take a little more effort.

madmaxx · #8 (**permalink**) 12-01-2010, 05:49 PM

Why make life hard? go get a 94 or newer block. Pre 94 and you are fuking with special tie bar lifters$$$, reduced base circle camshafts. The money you save buy getting a pre 94 block will be spent 5 fold then getting a block already set up.

redmt · #9 (**permalink**) 12-01-2010, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madmaxx

Why make life hard? go get a 94 or newer block. Pre 94 and you are fuking with special tie bar lifters$$$, reduced base circle camshafts. The money you save buy getting a pre 94 block will be spent 5 fold then getting a block already set up.

You are taking into assumption that I "need" to have a roller set-up. So many of these engines are overbuilt for the intended purpose. Thousands are spent just so bragging rights can be had. A flat tappet hydraulic cam will suit my purposes just fine.

madmaxx · #10 (**permalink**) 12-01-2010, 08:06 PM

Roller set up is cheap. 16 ford racing hydraulic lifters $110.00, Camshaft price is the same regardless. so the difference between a roller and flat tappet is $60.00 more for the lifters. No lash adjustement, no break in etc. no phosphourous/zinc additive. I had a 1995 302 completely stock long block with edlebrock performer heads, edlebrock rpm manifold, holley carb and it dyoned 302 hp at rear wheels. I beat the car sheetless and never thought twice about it. total cost including all new edelbrock components was about $3500. Last checked it had over 30K miles of abuse including a tons of track time. If you want to cheat the system on zero to 60mph times, get a 3.92 rear end ratio or higher. True above 100mph it started flating out on acceleration but the race was long over before then.

Quote:

Originally Posted by redmt

You are taking into assumption that I "need" to have a roller set-up. So many of these engines are overbuilt for the intended purpose. Thousands are spent just so bragging rights can be had. A flat tappet hydraulic cam will suit my purposes just fine.

timsullivan · #11 (**permalink**) 12-01-2010, 08:30 PM

Good point Redmet, good point.

Wbulk · #12 (**permalink**) 12-01-2010, 08:43 PM

For a Comp Cam roller for this engine is $297, and for a flat tappet it's $135. Then are not the push rods a different length. Not quit equal.

blykins · #13 (**permalink**) 12-02-2010, 02:54 AM

Roller cams are about twice the cost of a flat tappet cam.

The only con with the flat tappet stuff is the rain dance that you have to go through with the cam break-in.

If you go that route, my advice would be:

1. Leave the inner springs out
2. Use plenty of cam lube on the lifters/lobes
3. Have the distributor/carb set so that it will fire immediately
4. Run Brand Penn or Joe Gibbs break-in oil

madmaxx · #14 (**permalink**) 12-02-2010, 07:37 AM

Is it safe to say that a roller cost is $500 more than a non-roller? Factoring resale value when you sell your replica and the fact these are replicas if you can not come up with $500 for proven reliability and efficiency (every major car manufacturing uses them, they dont like to waste money) then the cobra replica hobby is not for you. If your budget is that tight, forget about the engine you will never get to the point of buying rims.

redmt · #15 (**permalink**) 12-02-2010, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madmaxx

Is it safe to say that a roller cost is $500 more than a non-roller? Factoring resale value when you sell your replica and the fact these are replicas if you can not come up with $500 for proven reliability and efficiency (every major car manufacturing uses them, they dont like to waste money) then the cobra replica hobby is not for you. If your budget is that tight, forget about the engine you will never get to the point of buying rims.

It seems that you are trying to start an argument with yourself? Go back and read the entire thread. You try and argue both sides and now you start up about what you interpret this thread to be about costs and now wheels?

I originally asked about the years of blocks that came with roller cams and that was it. Go hijack another thread and have a really great day.

John

madmaxx · #16 (**permalink**) 12-02-2010, 08:57 AM

I agree I am making no progress here. Still cant figure out how I am arguing both sides, I am pro roller the entire thread. Didnt mean to rub you the wrong way but it happens.

Quote:

Originally Posted by redmt

It seems that you are trying to start an argument with yourself? Go back and read the entire thread. You try and argue both sides and now you start up about what you interpret this thread to be about costs and now wheels?

I originally asked about the years of blocks that came with roller cams and that was it. Go hijack another thread and have a really great day.

John

redmt · #17 (**permalink**) 12-02-2010, 09:33 AM

No bad rubs. I just couldn't figure how my asking about block years equated to whether or not I could afford wheels? I've probably built as many motors as any of the non-pros on here. Unfortunately my "technology" stopped over 20 years ago. There is always a lot to learn and I have tons to catch up on.

John

blykins · #18 (**permalink**) 12-02-2010, 10:46 AM

Flat tappet cams are perfectly fine as long as you get through the break-in period. After that, no one knows what you have in the engine until they tear it down and look. In a stock rebuild/mild performance application, a flat tappet cam can make great power.

On the flip side, if you want a totally hands-free first start-up, the roller cam is the only way to go. The cost difference between a SBF hydraulic flat tappet cam and a SBF hydraulic roller cam is about $150 (using a lifter spider and late model lifters).

If you end up wiping the lobes off the camshaft on a bad break-in, you'll easily eat that $150 and then some.