sbf oil inlet fitting size

[vector1]

is there a fitting that will screw onto the 3/4-16 and go to an12 flare or an10 flare size?

or can the std ford 3/4-16 oil inlet fitting be removed and another fitting be inserted to go to the an12 or an10 flare?

what is the thread size or how is the oil filter adapter fitted into the block?

would like to remove the block of aluminum adapter using now and go straight into the oil inlet port.

[Jerry Clayton]

that block of alum also has the output of the pump to the filter in it---it is an filter adapter--in and out

[bobcowan]

Yes, there are two holes under that alum block. One is to the center of the filter, and has the threaded fitting to retain the filter. That fitting can be removed, and then an adapter put in it's place for the AN line.

The other hole is not threaded. You'll have to drill out the hole and cut new NPT threads into the hole, and then use another adapter for the AN line. That requires engine disassembly to keep shavings out of the oil galleys.

But, what's the point? If you're using a block adapter for a remote filter, there's no advantage to getting rid of it. Oil pressure will remain the same. Weight won't change enough to matter. But you'll spend a lot of money and time.

[vector1]

okay, just to clarify, i'm using a dry sump setup. i'm not trying to save weight, i won't spend a lot of time and money, and there is an advantage to removing the aluminum block with the o ring gasket and sandwich gasket and just using one fitting without the inlet going into the side of the aluminum adapter and then through the two small holes in the bolt type fitting then down the center of the bolt fitting and into the block. and space is not the greatest so i can't extend out from the block too far, hence wanting to use one fitting or something that will screw onto the oil inlet 3/4-16, which a flare an8 will do but not correctly. that would be the point.

[mreid]

So the answer is, yes, there is a fitting you can replace the inlet with to convert it to AN, but that doesn't address the outlet. What will you do there? BTW, I wouldn't go smaller than -10 on the AN fitting.

[vector1]

sources say the oil filter inlet can be screwed out of the block and an an8 o-ring fitting screwed in with -10 flare, common fitting.

[Jerry Clayton]

the thread in the oil port is an-12 thread---use an oringed -12 to -12 straight and you will have what you want--

it would of helped if you had given the details of dry-sump etc,



I think its 1 1/8x 12 thread inch same as -12

[bobcowan]

Regardless of what it's for, the process and parts are the same. Unscrew the center nipple, and put in an AN adapter. That would probably only cost about $10-15, and summit or jegs will ship it right to your door step.

The real issue is the other hole. If you want to use it or seal it, it needs to be threaded. That requires engine removal and, at least, partial disassembly. Since there's no oil pump, you could probably get away with using a compression cup - like a small freeze plug - in each end of the passage. I wouldn't be comfortable with that, but you could do it.

[vector1]

thanks jerry, i was told -8 which would be the 3/4-16 on the filter side but i'll wait and see before i get the fitting.

was told a no. 8 easy out will do the trick without banging up the threads.

bob, it's already a dry sump engine, the hole has already been plugged. i used the parts i had on hand to do the inlet, don't like it, so gonna change it.

[vector1]

the thread size is -12 in the block, easy out #6 will take the fitting out.