Change of oil and found metallic spring etc inside - need your advise.

[Jac Mac]

Have you removed the rod bearing caps to inspect the rod bearings yet, oil in the pump rotor means nothing, once the pumpdrive sheared what oil was on pressure side of pump would just stay there.
I dont bet on motors , 'do it once & do it right', my advice , forget about 'Eric' or whomever did the first build & find someone who is conversant with the engine, or at least someone who is prepared to do the research & take the time to learn how to do it right, be prepared to be patient & pay that person a fair amount for his time. looks like you might be needing his services again in the future
The number of 'non compatible' parts & bad engine building practices in the initial build of this motor is just 'bad', no other way to describe it! One other thing, when an oil pressure gauge drops to zero, or a temp gauge ,goes of the clock', It means stop now, right now & find out what the problem is, DO NOT DRIVE HOME thinking what might be the problem. In forty plus years of motoring I have never seen an oil pressure problem get better by doing a few more miles........

Hope I have not spoilt anyone's sensitivities with that piece of wisdom

[andronikos916]

More pics - under the car with the Oil Pan removed. I uploaded the hi-resolution images so you can better see details.

Do you believe (maybe) that because the oil I had inside the engine was 1ich higher than normal that prevent the excessive damage inside the engine (bearings, rods etc)? Or maybe that is the reason why things went bad? Of course I have not opened the engine - so deep yet (trying to avoid it) - to know what else I will find bad / damaged... Just thinking loud now.

http://www.ixorvfx.com/files/temp/IMG_3882.JPG
http://www.ixorvfx.com/files/temp/IMG_3883.JPG
http://www.ixorvfx.com/files/temp/IMG_3884.JPG
http://www.ixorvfx.com/files/temp/IMG_3885.JPG
http://www.ixorvfx.com/files/temp/IMG_3886.JPG
http://www.ixorvfx.com/files/temp/IMG_3887.JPG
http://www.ixorvfx.com/files/temp/IMG_3888.JPG
http://www.ixorvfx.com/files/temp/IMG_3889.JPG
http://www.ixorvfx.com/files/temp/IMG_3890.JPG

Thank you - Andronikos,

[392cobra]

Originally Posted by andronikos916

Do you believe (maybe) that because the oil I had inside the engine was 1ich higher than normal that prevent the excessive damage inside the engine (bearings, rods etc)? Or maybe that is the reason why things went bad? Of course I have not opened the engine - so deep yet (trying to avoid it) - to know what else I will find bad / damaged... Just thinking loud now.


Thank you - Andronikos,

The oil level didn't prevent or cause you any damage.

The only mistake,a BIG one though,was not believing your oil pressure gauge. I believe you learned the lesson.

The root cause of this disaster is the poor quality of workmanship in building this engine.

I'd be real surprised if Eric does anything to help you on this.Not too sure I'd accept it anyway.

[andronikos916]

Ok so how to do it correct this time? How can I feel safe after next rebuilt?

I know gaskets where wrong. The rocker arms should not touch the valve retainer cap. Do I need longer push rods? How to check that? Maybe longer rocker arm studs? What rocker arms to get - what ratio? What about the valve leak? Is this normal? ..you know so many questions. Known the theory is very important for me - since I believe I can apply it with my mechanic.

My mechanic is good - but not experienced with these engines - so basically I think this will be a crazy rebuilt process for me...

Best - Andronikos,

[STL Mark]

You could find a tech that has experience. Basically, the lump needs to be pulled, torn down, and rebuilt properly from the bottom up - without guesswork. OR - maybe be cheaper in your situation - order a new crate engine from Ford - and put the old one on e-bay part by part.

Been there Bud.
Good Luck.

[cdnus]

If you notice the brownish colour of the connecting rod cap second from the rear,that indicates overheating & a burnt bearing & crank journal.
Do not waste time or money on this as it sits. Go for a complete rebuild or you will be chasing this monster forever.
JMO

Craig

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by STL Mark

You could find a tech that has experience. Basically, the lump needs to be pulled, torn down, and rebuilt properly from the bottom up - without guesswork. OR - maybe be cheaper in your situation - order a new crate engine from Ford - and put the old one on e-bay part by part.

Been there Bud.
Good Luck.

I agree 100%.........
Andronikos, the only I can see good in your pictures is a nice water pump and some nice ARP head and main studs, the rest of what I can see is not top shelf parts, some,IMO are poor quality parts, definetly mis-matched parts for the application and definetly poor quality assembly of those poor quality parts.......the list is too long with what's wrong with this particular engine...

If you notice the brownish colour of the connecting rod cap second from the rear,that indicates overheating & a burnt bearing & crank journal.
Do not waste time or money on this as it sits.

Agreed again, you have one burnt rod and rod bearing,the crankshaft will be damaged, maybe beyound repair, you will not know until you tear it all down...to rebuild this engine, you'll need to revamp the entire valve trane and who knows what else.it's not worth it, get a crate engine and install, take this engine down and sell the undamaged parts and pieces and recoup what you can............
Just from what pictures you've posted,I see way too much that I don't like in this engine and I'm certainly no great engine builder by any stretch,just a garage mechanic.......

I know this is not what you expected or wanted to see and hear, but it's the facts, your pictures don't lie........

best of luck with whatever you decide......
David