Cobra Owners Preferred Engine Oil Brand?

[WardL]

I only use Castrol Synthetic 5w-30w in my Cobra. I'm biased because I work for the company that owns Castrol. Just call me a company man. The only problem is when I switched to synthetic it drips a little. Roush said to use 30w oil and synthetic was ok after 3,000 miles on the engine.

[CBattaglia]

I just switched to Joe Gibbs also. I have a 460. I have a leak from the pan but in a spot that is hard to address. I have a small leak on the arc where the pan meets the tranny. Any thoughts on how to stop that? It did slow down when I snugged down the surrounding pan bolts but its still there.

[mpanten]

Originally Posted by AL427SBF

mpanten, that is one but HR-2 looks like a better fit maybe? I'm not a big block, or blown, or have loose bearing clearances.

HR-1
15W-50

• STORAGE PROTECTION
Uses the same oil additive technology developed for the U.S.
Military for storing and shipping their combat equipment.
Protects against rust and corrosion so your engine is protected
even when it’s not running.

• HIGH ZINC CONTENT
Higher levels of Zinc (ZDDP) than regular passenger car oils.
Delivers proper anti-wear protection for older style push-rod
and flat-tappet engines.

• CAMSHAFT WEAR PROTECTION
Superior camshaft wear protection chemistry. The same wear protection found in Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil which has powered Joe Gibbs Racing to multiple NASCAR Championships.

Applications:
• Perfect for big block muscle cars and blown street rods. Excellent high temperature protection. Good for loose bearing clearances.


HR-2
10W-30

• STORAGE PROTECTION
Uses the same oil additive technology developed for the U.S.
Military for storing and shipping their combat equipment.
Protects against rust and corrosion so your engine is protected
even when it’s not running.

• HIGH ZINC CONTENT
Higher levels of Zinc (ZDDP) than regular passenger car oils.
Delivers proper anti-wear protection for older style push-rod
and flat-tappet engines.

• CAMSHAFT WEAR PROTECTION
Superior camshaft wear protection chemistry. The same wear protection found in Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil which has powered Joe Gibbs Racing to multiple NASCAR Championships.

Applications:
• Great for small block engines and "crate" motors.
• 10W Multi-Grade formula provides excellent start-up protection.

I think either would be good. The guy i talked to did mention that the small block windsors like yours and mine tend to suffer from low idle oil pressure. I was running 15/40 diesel before so i was pretty close to what I was running. I would not be afraid to run either. He also mentioned that the aluminum tends to expand and contract a little more and the heavier weight would be helpful.

[PLDRIVE]

I am not supporting the validity of the test (just passing on info).
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by mpanten

I think either would be good. The guy i talked to did mention that the small block windsors like yours and mine tend to suffer from low idle oil pressure. I was running 15/40 diesel before so i was pretty close to what I was running. I would not be afraid to run either. He also mentioned that the aluminum tends to expand and contract a little more and the heavier weight would be helpful.

This has probably been covered before, but is there any issue with mixing different weight oils of the same brand?

[PLDRIVE]

No not at all (assuming we are talking the same brand and same product line).

[YerDugliness]

Originally Posted by Keithc8

The Jo Gibbs has about 2500 PPM ZDDP in the oil and very low detergents which fight for the same mmetal as the ZDDP trying to clean it of the metal. They pretty work agaianst each other. This is the problem with most sote bought iols, the low level of ZDDP and the high detergent content. This all helps the converter last longer which is what they are after. You can no longer run oil that is approved for todays car with more than 800 PPM ZDDP in the oil because the way they have warranty the converters.
Our engines that we run in most of the older cars and high performance cars require more of the ZDDP and less detergent. This is why there were so many flat-tappet cams going down in the last 5 years. We have no problme with them as long as we run the Jo Gibbs oil. There may be some other that are similiar but if the have the AP symbol on the container thay can have no more than 800PPM of ZDDP. Hope this helps a little.

Thanks, Keith Craft

I'm sold...don't have to have converters on my '65 Cobra replica, like to change my oil at no more than 2,500 miles so the lower levels of detergents should not be an issue for me.

Where can one buy this Jo Gibbs oil?

Thanks!!

Cheers from Dugly

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by YerDugliness

I'm sold...don't have to have converters on my '65 Cobra replica, like to change my oil at no more than 2,500 miles so the lower levels of detergents should not be an issue for me.

Where can one buy this Jo Gibbs oil?

Thanks!!

Cheers from Dugly

You can search for a dealer or buy it on Joe Gibbs' website Joe Gibbs Driven - Racing Oil and High Performance Products

I found it available on Amazon...free shipping.

[AL427SBF]

I got some tech advice from Joe Gibbs. I sent them my bearing clearances which are < .001 per 1" main journal dia (e.g. tight), so for the aluminum 427w their recommendation is HP-4 after break-in with BR. So that's the plan, they also recommended during break-in I don't baby it and put the 427 under a good load to get those rings really seated.

[ACMamba]

Recently talked to two racers/builders of Ford race-ready engines. Their comments
are relevant: What will you be doing with your car? Both favored Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs oil. Interestingly enough, one favored 10-30 W Brad Penn-even for racing. These engines were recent build 351s and 427/428s. The Brad Penn site shows two lab tests and their own test for ZDDP levels-PPM ratings. The 10-30 Penn 1 was a bit higher in zinc-phosphate. So a sub-thread on this subject is warranted: weight of oil for use of the engine. Street vs race applications is definitely relevant as is age and type engine:
i.e. an original side-oiler 427 for example. In either case for a side-oiler Joe Gibbs oil would probably be the best choice.
Early BMW motorcycle owners have been down part of this road: higher ZDDP oil is necessary because of engine design in the 60s-70s. (Synthetic oil has caused problems with seals and O-rings.) Another topic for real concern is
levels of ethanol in gasoline: if our "government" decides on 15% ethanol or higher-
look for more rust-/related problems/ in the fuel -delivery systems. Not to mention inefficient performance levels with alcohol.

Marriott

Horizontally opposed flat twin old cycles
Auto Car-AC Cobra 67 title
"The current left coast government is creating more problems than it can fix"